I would suggest hewland transmissions. They make them for any application (but the price reflects this fact). You can change out gears, rebuild the trans in the car, choose dog-engagement or standard conical synchromesh, pretty much whatever you want and for whatever powerlevel you want it to take. http://www.hewland.com/ is the website, just drop them an email if your interested and see what they can do for you.

Also, there was a thread in the 3gen section about a group buy for a rear subframe designed for the *new* ford cobra mustang rear end. Honestly, it's not worth it. The new aluminum housings are breaking more and more (even in stock applications from what I hear). Just find a way to splice in the cast iron ford 9 inch and that should last you as long as you want. Here in the states, the ford 9" is known to be nearly indestructable (I personally have never seen one break except for one, but that was a lack of fluid, and it didn't blow, just seized after sitting at the end of the race).

I won't pretend to be an expert this subject, but I do have experiance with this equipment, and we have never had any problems with our purpose-built race cars running this stuff (2 are rear-engine rear-drive tiga's running hewland trans-axles, the other is a '70 boss 302, which isn't 302 anymore (not quite sure what it is, except it's 13.5:1 comp. pistons), running a hewland 5-spd and a ford 9" spool with cast aluminum axle housings (the little peices the axles run through, I don't know their technical name))

 

I chose to go the 8.8 IRS route with my project but used the T-bird rear which is the same except it is steel. A little heavier but much less likely to break.

9" ford all the way if all you want to do is launch the car! (good choice for drag car)

Check out liberty transmissions as well. They are building me a tremec TKO 5-speed with a custom input shaft to my specifications that will fit with the use of an adapter which i still have to get made.

 

Well, cast iron anyway, and we know how well the stock cast iron differential housings hold up.

Seriously, I've never seen anything that indicates that the cast iron 8.8" housings are any stronger than the cast aluminum housings. Let's put it this way... Ford used the cast aluminum housing on the 390+ horsepower Cobra Mustang, but they used the cast iron housing on the... um... 210 horsepower T-bird SC. The Cobra Mustang was already heavy, so would another 30-40 lbs. have hurt if the cast iron housing was the stronger part? And yet they chose to use the aluminum housing instead...

Something to think about.

 

thanks for all your advices!

what do you think about powerglide auto tranny?
FBperformance is selling it ready for 1000hp with all the FD adaptation at 4k$ price level.
http://www.fbperformance.com/transmi...pecial1or2.htm

i know that th400 has much power loss but powerglide i heard is better in that way..
and its far more streetable.

 

btw, as for rear end then i am thinking about installing supra mk4 rear dif with modified supra CVs. i never heard it breaks even after 1k whp power level...

 

one of my latest dyno before i broke tranny

 

LOL, it looks like the dyno broke before your transmission broke.

Would you happen to have a picture of a correct dyno chart?

 

dynapack did not hold it well just reached its maximum

 

No, the torque and hp lines cross twice, and at the wrong place. I am assuming that those are supposed to be torque and hp lines, anyway.

 

hmm interesting..
20bfd3s, are you trying to pull something?? are you really in Moscow??

 

I only see them crossing once, and the reason they don't cross at 5,252 is because the scale is different on each side of the graph.

 

pull what?
yes, I am in Moscow.
why?

 

He's trying to call you out. But I'm with Jim, I only see them cross once.

 

The hp and torque scales aren't the same, that's why the lines cross at the "wrong" place. Have a closer look, you'll see.

 

OK, I still don't get it. RPM is on the bottom, right?

Please help me out here by completing the following:

Torque @ 5252rpm = ?

HP @ 5252rpm = ?

 

We don't even know what the units are for each side, so the figures may require conversion before you could calculate torque from horsepower and horsepower from torque.

Also, if you shifted the torque graph far enough from the horsepower graph, it could cross at more than one place. They have to be on the same scale to ensure that they only cross at one point (5,252 rpm).

I'd like to see a better scan of the entire sheet before rendering judgment.

 

I agree, which is why I asked for this clarification in my other post.

Ah, I didn't think of that. Good point.

Sure, but hp @ 5252rpm and tq @ 5252 rpm should still be the same, regardless of the scale... assuming units of SAE hp and lbs-ft torque, of course.

I'm just saying that it looks strange, that's all. If my car produced a dyno sheet like that I would throw the sheet in the garbage, troubleshoot the machine, and try it again, lol.

 

Units are wheels HP and N/m for torque.
3rd time it crosses because I depressed throttle at around 7700 RPM.
1st time it crosses because I foiled plugs at low RPM.
It is one of the first dynos that I made at the tuning stage.
Tuning was incomplete because I lost tranny.

 

OK...

Torque = left scale, blue (steep) line

HP = right scale, green (shallow) line

I got it now. Geez that's confusing, though.

 

You should really look into this, especially if you are considering an american transmission swap!
http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

read all the info, you'll like what you see..........wish i could afford something like that...

 

gearvendors just sell overdrives...

after all i desided to go with th350 with rx7 adaptation parts from fbperformance.com company

 

I wanted to make sure I got this right. You have straight cut 1st 2nd and 3rd. You blew 4th. Would a full set of straight cut gears solve this problem? I guess the pilot shaft is the next weak spot. Would a forged custom shaft work? I guess my OS giken triple plate kinda makes me want to keep the FC shaft. I guess the trans is where I will stop. Hopefully I can make 600 to 650 or 700 and not blow my TII driveline.
I think OS giken makes a set of FC gears. Kinda expensive, but cheaper and easier, much easier than t56 swap. I would think the bellhousing alone would cost at least $500. Even that would be a steal.
Not at that point yet, but it should be soon. triple turbo fabrication starting. Yeah.