I was referring to shafts from a C & D series *motor,* not a # on the shaft itself.

 

Interesting...

I have an A series that sees 10k RPM fairly often....

 

Has nothing to do w/ how high you rev it. At that kind of rpm, the shaft is more likely to snap from housing flex (if the block isn't purpose-built) than anything else. The problem I'm referring to was a problem Mazda originally recognized with sudden torque surge.

 

mad20B maybe it is because you are running an N/A it doesn't have the snap torque effect that a forced induction motor suffers from (What Ramy is refering to)

 

 

Gt4788r

 

So it's a matter of time then

 

I have pricing for a few options now. I am going to hold off on a decision until I get confirmation of my next project for work. I want to make sure I have some job security and my pay rate before choosing an option.

I have just read the Teread on e-shafts.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=jeff+bruce

very informative.

 

U can also contact Richard at Green Brothers racing in NZ they get there parts straight from Jeff Bruce. They are sourcing out my 4 rotor kit as we speak

richard@greenbrothers.co.nz

JT

 

I just found that thread yesterday, and I agree, awesome

 

Yea there is a TON of really good, solid info in this subsection - if ya look around and know what to read & what to ignore

 

Here is an update

I ordered the Shaft direct from Precission. The exchange rate was awesome 2 weeks ago and it only cost be $1480 USD shipped. I could not pass that up. I should see it in the next week or so.

I'll post picture when it arrives. I want to get the car together soon. I'll b taking the car out to California in May when my next project start. Another bonus is there is a bunch of gas stations starting to carry E85 in the Sacramento area.

 

That's unreal. Did you still fiind out what made it snap like that?

 

How much do the 3 peice shafts run?

 

Never did ask Jeff when I talked to him.

I'm sure my old one failed do to the HP level and not having the assembly balanced .

 

so youre going to run E85?

 

Was there a dedicated oil feed to the thick center housing?

 

Yes I want to keep running E85. I am looking at adding an ethonal content sensor to the ECU. This will allow me to run regular gas when E85 isn't arround. I've also been looking at the AI forum just checking out that option too. Right now I just want to get it together and break the motor in.
I was told my eshaft arrived Friday. I won't be able to check it out till next weekend when I am home.

 

No, but there will be on this time.
Like I said before the motor was in there for quite awhile and took alot of abuse over the last few years untouched sense it was studded.

 

Please post pics of it once you get it in your hands..

I am sure I am not the only one who wants to see the quality of the E-shaft..

Also curious to know if you will check the run out of the E-shaft?

I ask this because....a few bigtime rotary guys I have talked to in the past said the NZ 3 rotor and 4 rotor E-shafts had too much run out... curious to know if this is fact or fiction..

 

Will do, I have a set of V-blocks and a dial indicator.

 

Hopefully it wil read ZERO...

 

Finally made it home.
First thing I did was a runout check.
Having the v blocks on the 1st and 3rd bearing showed less than .0003 3/10,000th
Having the v blocks on the 2nd and 3rd bearing showed less than .0005 5/10,000th
The high point is either side of the keyway. The milling of they keyway could of caused it.
I'd say that is pretty damn straight.







You can see there is less material in between the 2nd and 3rd lobes

 

Looks to be a quality piece

 

mad20b, yours may of had a gt47 bolted to it but it still only made the power of a n/a 20b 140mph was it???

Jeff Bruce cranks are good and do the job fine,have seen them many times after being abused in 1000+hp 3 rotors, bearings are always fine.No signs of flex.