20B to T56 ???s.....will 98-02 Fbody T56 work? Difference betw this and GTO
#2
20b GTX4294R MS Dry-Sump
iTrader: (27)
I did some research over on LS1 tech. I'm going with a rebuilt F-body as I'm sticking with the stock diff. The only problem I've run into is trying to figure out the shifter position of the f-body, as I heard the GTO sits back 1.5" further. Also, 1-4 is a little shorter since the GTO was a bit heavier. Hope this helps a little.
"Trouble is, with your RX7's 4.10 rear, the F-body trans ratios are better suited than the stump pulling 1st gear of the GTO trans.
85MikeTPI has worked some magic before and put the C5 gearset in a F-body case. The C5 has the ratios you want, as does the F-body. The process sounds expensive but I bet when he's done with it, it would shift smoother than a wooden spoon in a bowl of whipped cream.
Your 2nd option would be to get the GTO trans and put a 03 Cobra diff in by using a custom subframe and custom axles. Around $3k
Your 3rd option is to use the F-body trans with your stock diff . Drive today and dream about tomorrow.
Are you a member of V8RX7forum.com ? If not, come by some time and introduce yourself."
Really helpful info in this thread.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...dy-t-56-a.html
Good luck, and update this thread with progress as I'll be going the same route on my 13b.
~M
"Trouble is, with your RX7's 4.10 rear, the F-body trans ratios are better suited than the stump pulling 1st gear of the GTO trans.
85MikeTPI has worked some magic before and put the C5 gearset in a F-body case. The C5 has the ratios you want, as does the F-body. The process sounds expensive but I bet when he's done with it, it would shift smoother than a wooden spoon in a bowl of whipped cream.
Your 2nd option would be to get the GTO trans and put a 03 Cobra diff in by using a custom subframe and custom axles. Around $3k
Your 3rd option is to use the F-body trans with your stock diff . Drive today and dream about tomorrow.
Are you a member of V8RX7forum.com ? If not, come by some time and introduce yourself."
Really helpful info in this thread.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/manual...dy-t-56-a.html
Good luck, and update this thread with progress as I'll be going the same route on my 13b.
~M
#3
Glutton for Punishment
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The GTO has the better synchros. The Fbody one is hit and miss shifting above 7k. They are the same case but the GTO uses an offset shifter. The GTO has a few other internal updates vs. the camaro box.
#4
The fbody trans i am looking at is rebuilt with carbon blockers, new synchros, carbon blockers, 3/4 steel shift fork, ...Rated at 700 ft lbs
He said the gto is longer which can be fixed with a different handle. The gto trans is alot more expensive
i just wanna know if i can use the fbody or if the gto can take 650 ft lbs
I have pfs 4.33 gears so the fbody may work better
He said the gto is longer which can be fixed with a different handle. The gto trans is alot more expensive
i just wanna know if i can use the fbody or if the gto can take 650 ft lbs
I have pfs 4.33 gears so the fbody may work better
Last edited by allrotor93; 05-01-10 at 06:46 AM.
#5
Glutton for Punishment
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Here is some info on making hybrid t-56's
Basically you are taking a CTSV/GTO/Vette gearsets putting them into a Camaro case upgrading it with the SSR output shaft.
But that means being able to rebuild a tranny.
Basically you are taking a CTSV/GTO/Vette gearsets putting them into a Camaro case upgrading it with the SSR output shaft.
But that means being able to rebuild a tranny.
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#12
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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my t56 is in my car currently. it is from a non GTO. (F body). the addition of the GTO shifter assembly positions the shifter in the exact perfect spot. no cutting whatsoever. there are 3 tabs near the front of the trans that should be removed for ease if install. a 30 minute job.
finally my aluminum driveshaft (w replaceable U joints) and clutch package is finshed and will be picked up tomorrow. i then only have to mill the bellhousing and i am set to install.
once i get to that point i will post a thread on my setup.
most of the hard work was done by IronMdX. my setup will have a few twists
howard
finally my aluminum driveshaft (w replaceable U joints) and clutch package is finshed and will be picked up tomorrow. i then only have to mill the bellhousing and i am set to install.
once i get to that point i will post a thread on my setup.
most of the hard work was done by IronMdX. my setup will have a few twists
howard
#14
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
the only item i plan to offer is the adapter plate. all other items re my setup will be obtainable from the vendor direct. the clutch, driveshaft, rear subframe. i really like my rear trans mount as it is very high and short and allows for a 4 inch exhaust to pass under it w no bends and nothing is below the body. all tucked up in the tunnel. i will just post a pic of it and if people wish they can fab it themselves.
BTW, i prefer the F body gears to the GTO as they are closer. the GTO has better syncros and i will just have to drive my F to see if it will shift at 8000. if not i will send the trans out to Tick for some internal upgrades. i purposely am starting w a run of the mill F body trans so we can all learn if it will shift o k. i may eventually upgrade to a Magnum which is the new T56.
hc
BTW, i prefer the F body gears to the GTO as they are closer. the GTO has better syncros and i will just have to drive my F to see if it will shift at 8000. if not i will send the trans out to Tick for some internal upgrades. i purposely am starting w a run of the mill F body trans so we can all learn if it will shift o k. i may eventually upgrade to a Magnum which is the new T56.
hc
#19
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
t6060 is the same bolt pattern as t56
aftermarket T6060 is sold by many vendors (Summit etc etc) and goes by the name of Magnum.
you can get the close ratio F body 1-4th and the close 5th from the Ford BTW.
hc
aftermarket T6060 is sold by many vendors (Summit etc etc) and goes by the name of Magnum.
you can get the close ratio F body 1-4th and the close 5th from the Ford BTW.
hc
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 05-03-10 at 07:22 AM.
#21
#24
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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bellhousing is at the machine shop, getting shaved .25 and the adapter plate is being re-verified as being centered on input shaft. found the proper ARP bolts for the flywheel. trans mount done. actuator bearing being mounted to adapter plate. i need to finish the adapter for the clutch master to firewall and fab a line.
then it is finish the downpipe for my new turbo setup, redo the input side of my IC and reassemble my motor.
oh and build a customer motor. (customers come first)
as soon as the adapter is verified as centered it will be available along w all the details.
my only delay has been the clutch and driveshaft and that is done so things should move more quickly. i want to get on the road. i also have a set of Pettit Stage 3 Trak Pro coilovers that are going on the car.
hc
then it is finish the downpipe for my new turbo setup, redo the input side of my IC and reassemble my motor.
oh and build a customer motor. (customers come first)
as soon as the adapter is verified as centered it will be available along w all the details.
my only delay has been the clutch and driveshaft and that is done so things should move more quickly. i want to get on the road. i also have a set of Pettit Stage 3 Trak Pro coilovers that are going on the car.
hc
#25
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (8)
I want this transmission (TR6060) with a 4.7 rear end... the gear ratios would literally be perfect imo and I don't have to worry about it shifting at 8k RPM
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...7cPath=107_124
What you think Howard? Also, I was wondering if the speedo will still be acurrate after you change the rear end to a 4.7?
thewird
http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...7cPath=107_124
What you think Howard? Also, I was wondering if the speedo will still be acurrate after you change the rear end to a 4.7?
thewird