20b studs
04-27-07, 01:48 AM
#2
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04-27-07, 03:44 PM
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MazdaTrix also sells them ($486 i think). I machined my housings myself. I would not recomend an adverage joe to do it though. I ended up with 13 out of the 16 locations that were in tolerence. I needed to upsize the other 3 to 33/64" vs 12.95mm on the Center iron wich I was fine with. I had a few metal shavings under the plate while drilling that tilted them off axis from what i can figure.
I wish I would have taken pictures of the steps I took to ensure the alignment of the holes.
I will not do anyone elses due to the high cost of a mistake if made..
FYI
9 of the studs run from the rear and thread into the front plate.
5 studs go all the way through with nuts on both ends ( 5 out of the 7 holes in the front plate)
2 studs from the rear plate and thread into the thick intermediate.
2 of the 12mm short bolts are reused for the front plate to the thick intermediate.
I wish I would have taken pictures of the steps I took to ensure the alignment of the holes.
I will not do anyone elses due to the high cost of a mistake if made..
FYI
9 of the studs run from the rear and thread into the front plate.
5 studs go all the way through with nuts on both ends ( 5 out of the 7 holes in the front plate)
2 studs from the rear plate and thread into the thick intermediate.
2 of the 12mm short bolts are reused for the front plate to the thick intermediate.
04-28-07, 05:50 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
If someone would lend me one of each for measurements I will start producing them...
I will also cut the lender a deal
.
I will also cut the lender a deal
.Are you planning to make an oversize kit or standard size(stock bolt replacement). The Extreme Rotaries Oversize kit (This is what mazdatrix sells) changed a number lengths vs. stock. IE 5 locations that use to use 2 bolts now have a single long stud with a nut on either end.
I have spare bolts except for the 2 12mm short front ones wich are the same length as the 10mm front ones.
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05-12-07, 12:21 AM
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
studs are a bitch
I have used them on a couple of 3 rotor motors and they are a bitch to do.
Lots of labor time to make the holes and calculations.
In the end they are better than stock,but back breaking work,Unless
to be done in a CNC machine.
Lots of labor time to make the holes and calculations.
In the end they are better than stock,but back breaking work,Unless
to be done in a CNC machine.
05-12-07, 12:57 AM
#11
05-20-07, 09:33 PM
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05-20-07, 10:47 PM
#14
I recall hearing a while back that using a 1/2" thick base plate for the oil pan could substitute the use of dowel pinning for 20b's. Seems to me this would be an easier option since you would now have to mainly worry about enlarging the oil pan holes under the engine to accept bigger screws.
06-11-07, 08:51 AM
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I recall hearing a while back that using a 1/2" thick base plate for the oil pan could substitute the use of dowel pinning for 20b's. Seems to me this would be an easier option since you would now have to mainly worry about enlarging the oil pan holes under the engine to accept bigger screws.
This is used on piston engines to keep the main caps in place under high horsepower, however it will not keep the sidehousings from cracking on a rotary. The studs are a much better option for the rotary engine.
06-12-07, 03:49 PM
#16
I have the studs and the CNC set up all you need to do is ask, I currently have five studded 20B's sitting here for various projects. As stated they are a pain but they are very nice and with the proper nuts on back they wont leak as will the the others.
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