If anyone here have same issue overheating. i had trouble staying cool, temperature outside 90 degrees, gauge climbing up to 240f and goes down to 200f while idling, but temp stays between 220-240 f. I do have Oem electric fans still vertical position mounted behind my FMIC, which may block flow into radiator. i know i have undertray to cool down engine as well, just never had chance to install it. i would like to keep my setup how it is now. anyways here is what I've done.

Oem e-fans. all stock no mod other then bypass to keep fan running high all times.
Koyo N flow radiator installed
replaced oem waterpump
installed Pineapple BT waterpump pulley kit, so belt will not slip
Using Evans coolant
sard thermostats

 

Hey man,

I feel for ya. Similar issue but not nearly as bad as you.

Koyo, FMIC etc and 80mm turbocharger.

@ 100F temps outside the car sits around 215-220F in traffic with fans running at idle or low load. Interstate cruising w/ better airflow it will come down to 200-205F. There's just no getting around it.

The biggest thing to help was raising the intercooler just slightly so that there is a path under the intercooler / opening in the bumper nose to allow airflow under the I/C and to the radiator. A path by which the fans can pull air.

The EWP is also helpful, because it takes the fear out of running up to 220-230F. You can immediately switch off the engine, even while coasting on the interstate for a few seconds, keep the EWP running and temps will drop 10F in a matter of seconds. This isn't possible on mechanical pump and in fact motor would increase a few degree's when shut off.

I'm still trying to find a way to get temps down further, but I don't think there's much left.



I'm going to swap out the fan motors to the RX8 Motors + Blades. They bolt into the FD shroud, and although there are no published numbers, they likely flow more CFM and also have a higher blade count.

My 20b also has aftermarket dual oil coolers, this helped tremendously So consider this option too if you haven't already done so.

In order of priority:

1. small opening under the intercooler for fans to pull fresh air under the core
2. dual oil coolers
3. EWP


P.S. - Keep in mind, Evans reportedly runs significantly hotter than water as the thicker coolant retains more heat. So although the boiling point it raised, you will see a good deal higher temperatures on your gauge. Whether this matters or not, aka cancelled out by the fact that boiling point is way higher is debatable.

 

If you want max cooling, you should install a 2nd gen water pump or the 20b unit. The impellers move more water and are larger in diameter. I have a large A/C condensor in front of my 3 row 2nd gen Supra radiator. It's the exact same size as the radiator ( so it almost acts like a front mount because it blocks the radiator ) and my temps never go over 200 degrees at idle in 100 degree weather when the fans kick in.

 

This makes me think the fans arent running correctly as surely the ewp should outflow a mechanical pump of any model at idle and yet temps creep

 

Koo thanks guys for replys. Although Evans actually did lower temp down by 20f. I'll look into mod lower lip to let some air into radiator. I probably should replace stock efans and install my undertray which should help.

 

Yet again ewp maybe. I know u cannot run Evans with ewp. When I do push peddle a bit, temp goes go down a bit too. Maybe fd w\p isn't as efficient running a bigger 3 rotor motor.

 

evans lowered the temp by 20F? Really that sounds perfect! Where did you hear it can be run with EWP?

 

Ewp can't run with Evans coolant. Ppl who sell ewp told me u cannot use evans

 

hmm wonder why, my guess would be the thickness of Evan's drives up the amp draw too high and slows the pump wears it out