20B FD swap questions, concerns and opinions
02-22-04, 10:40 PM
#1
20B FD swap questions, concerns and opinions
Hello gang, I was wondering if I could have a good open discussion with you folks that have experience with the swap.
Now I have searched this idea very throughly, however I still have some questions and would like some input.
At current, my car is in the midst of a single turbo conversion. At this point however I have come to the rather sad conclusion that 500 rwhp max, just isn't going to be enough for my goals.
So here it goes.
1)Generaly a late model/serial 20B is considered the ones to look for, correct?
2)In regards to mounting what methods are considered best/easiest? I'm aware that you can buy the pettit sub-frame, or hinsonsupercars subframe (link doesn't work anymore), but other methods I would like to touch on include hacking away at the firewire and using a 13B end housing with motor mounts.
How does the oil pan and sway bar come in to the picture with all those mounting methods.
3)ECU choice. I have it narrowed down to three choices. TEC3, Microtech or Haltech E11, the most obvious choice here would be the Microtech or Haltech. While the Microtech is cheaper, I think the Haltech with better resolution and software is the more obvious choice. I haven't heard anyone running a TEC on a 20B at all, but have found that a lot of people have been running it on 13B's with much success. The TEC also comes with it's own coils, etc...
4)Manifold/dp/turbo questions. I believe I could live with the stockers converted over to n/s for a bit, however I would like to switch over to a GT42R or T80 BB turbo sooner or later, I can and have fabbed a few things before, but prefer a high quality manifold and dp, made for something such as this. Are there any out there on the market in which I can use for this purpose, who would be the person to contact? Also as far as manifold design, what is regarded as the best setup 3-2-1/3-2?
5)Additonal weight. Now I have eliminated, A/C. PS, etc... As well as relocated the battery to a suitable location, but I'm concerned about the additional weight added to the front of the vehicle, first how much is it. (I've heard anywhere from 10-130 lbs) and is hacking the firewall up to move that weight back further worth it? I also have coil-overs on the car to help with the distribution.
Well thats about it for now I guess.
Now I have searched this idea very throughly, however I still have some questions and would like some input.
At current, my car is in the midst of a single turbo conversion. At this point however I have come to the rather sad conclusion that 500 rwhp max, just isn't going to be enough for my goals.
So here it goes.
1)Generaly a late model/serial 20B is considered the ones to look for, correct?
2)In regards to mounting what methods are considered best/easiest? I'm aware that you can buy the pettit sub-frame, or hinsonsupercars subframe (link doesn't work anymore), but other methods I would like to touch on include hacking away at the firewire and using a 13B end housing with motor mounts.
How does the oil pan and sway bar come in to the picture with all those mounting methods.
3)ECU choice. I have it narrowed down to three choices. TEC3, Microtech or Haltech E11, the most obvious choice here would be the Microtech or Haltech. While the Microtech is cheaper, I think the Haltech with better resolution and software is the more obvious choice. I haven't heard anyone running a TEC on a 20B at all, but have found that a lot of people have been running it on 13B's with much success. The TEC also comes with it's own coils, etc...
4)Manifold/dp/turbo questions. I believe I could live with the stockers converted over to n/s for a bit, however I would like to switch over to a GT42R or T80 BB turbo sooner or later, I can and have fabbed a few things before, but prefer a high quality manifold and dp, made for something such as this. Are there any out there on the market in which I can use for this purpose, who would be the person to contact? Also as far as manifold design, what is regarded as the best setup 3-2-1/3-2?
5)Additonal weight. Now I have eliminated, A/C. PS, etc... As well as relocated the battery to a suitable location, but I'm concerned about the additional weight added to the front of the vehicle, first how much is it. (I've heard anywhere from 10-130 lbs) and is hacking the firewall up to move that weight back further worth it? I also have coil-overs on the car to help with the distribution.
Well thats about it for now I guess.
02-23-04, 10:44 AM
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,846 Posts
1) i suppose, i have an early one #246 and its been great, i'm not making big power though
2) i have an fc
3)the e11 runs excellent, with some tuning mine is buttery smooth, and it gets excellent mileage (16 in mixed driving, 19-20 highway).
4)i would put it together with the stockers, as theres enough stuff going on the less stuff to worry about the better.
5)look for howard colemans post in here, https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=265222 , he actually put an fd on the scale. my fc gained about 10lbs over stock.
2) i have an fc
3)the e11 runs excellent, with some tuning mine is buttery smooth, and it gets excellent mileage (16 in mixed driving, 19-20 highway).
4)i would put it together with the stockers, as theres enough stuff going on the less stuff to worry about the better.
5)look for howard colemans post in here, https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=265222 , he actually put an fd on the scale. my fc gained about 10lbs over stock.
02-23-04, 11:08 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Greensboro / Charlotte NC
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
j9fd3s, I know you've probably posted this before, and I've probably read that post about 10 times, but how how much power and what sort of power curve are you putting out? On how much boost, etc, etc? Got any dynos?
02-23-04, 12:54 PM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,846 Posts
Originally posted by johnisenglish
j9fd3s, I know you've probably posted this before, and I've probably read that post about 10 times, but how how much power and what sort of power curve are you putting out? On how much boost, etc, etc? Got any dynos?
j9fd3s, I know you've probably posted this before, and I've probably read that post about 10 times, but how how much power and what sort of power curve are you putting out? On how much boost, etc, etc? Got any dynos?
02-23-04, 01:56 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Greensboro / Charlotte NC
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What are you using for engine mangement and tuning?
I'm just shooting for something like this:
http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car47=1&SUBMIT=GRAPH
Although that really shows how undersized the turbos are for the engine.
I'm just shooting for something like this:
http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car47=1&SUBMIT=GRAPH
Although that really shows how undersized the turbos are for the engine.
02-23-04, 05:13 PM
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,601 Likes
on
1,846 Posts
haltech e11, and a techedge wideband
02-24-04, 06:29 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Re: 20B FD swap questions, concerns and opinions
Originally posted by the_glass_man
1)Generaly a late model/serial 20B is considered the ones to look for, correct?
2)In regards to mounting what methods are considered best/easiest? I'm aware that you can buy the pettit sub-frame, or hinsonsupercars subframe (link doesn't work anymore), but other methods I would like to touch on include hacking away at the firewire and using a 13B end housing with motor mounts.
How does the oil pan and sway bar come in to the picture with all those mounting methods.
3)ECU choice. I have it narrowed down to three choices. TEC3, Microtech or Haltech E11, the most obvious choice here would be the Microtech or Haltech. While the Microtech is cheaper, I think the Haltech with better resolution and software is the more obvious choice. I haven't heard anyone running a TEC on a 20B at all, but have found that a lot of people have been running it on 13B's with much success. The TEC also comes with it's own coils, etc...
4)Manifold/dp/turbo questions. I believe I could live with the stockers converted over to n/s for a bit, however I would like to switch over to a GT42R or T80 BB turbo sooner or later, I can and have fabbed a few things before, but prefer a high quality manifold and dp, made for something such as this. Are there any out there on the market in which I can use for this purpose, who would be the person to contact? Also as far as manifold design, what is regarded as the best setup 3-2-1/3-2?
5)Additonal weight. Now I have eliminated, A/C. PS, etc... As well as relocated the battery to a suitable location, but I'm concerned about the additional weight added to the front of the vehicle, first how much is it. (I've heard anywhere from 10-130 lbs) and is hacking the firewall up to move that weight back further worth it? I also have coil-overs on the car to help with the distribution.
Well thats about it for now I guess.
1)Generaly a late model/serial 20B is considered the ones to look for, correct?
2)In regards to mounting what methods are considered best/easiest? I'm aware that you can buy the pettit sub-frame, or hinsonsupercars subframe (link doesn't work anymore), but other methods I would like to touch on include hacking away at the firewire and using a 13B end housing with motor mounts.
How does the oil pan and sway bar come in to the picture with all those mounting methods.
3)ECU choice. I have it narrowed down to three choices. TEC3, Microtech or Haltech E11, the most obvious choice here would be the Microtech or Haltech. While the Microtech is cheaper, I think the Haltech with better resolution and software is the more obvious choice. I haven't heard anyone running a TEC on a 20B at all, but have found that a lot of people have been running it on 13B's with much success. The TEC also comes with it's own coils, etc...
4)Manifold/dp/turbo questions. I believe I could live with the stockers converted over to n/s for a bit, however I would like to switch over to a GT42R or T80 BB turbo sooner or later, I can and have fabbed a few things before, but prefer a high quality manifold and dp, made for something such as this. Are there any out there on the market in which I can use for this purpose, who would be the person to contact? Also as far as manifold design, what is regarded as the best setup 3-2-1/3-2?
5)Additonal weight. Now I have eliminated, A/C. PS, etc... As well as relocated the battery to a suitable location, but I'm concerned about the additional weight added to the front of the vehicle, first how much is it. (I've heard anywhere from 10-130 lbs) and is hacking the firewall up to move that weight back further worth it? I also have coil-overs on the car to help with the distribution.
Well thats about it for now I guess.
2)pettit subframe (or any other for that matter)will be a great help (speeds up procces) but if youre hacking subframe or changing the rear plate on the car , keep in mind the hight of the manifold as it will hit youre hood , you might end up trimming the lim
3)ecu should be wat you feel more comfortable with i think
4)i think youre pretty limitid to space , so remember anithing "fancy" will complicate things quite a bit ,my manifold design of choice for single turbo was 3-1.......it wasnt really that hard , not easy but you dont need to be a rocket scientist,
5)as j9fd3s stated above , its not that much heavier
i hope that helps
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ChrisRX8PR
Single Turbo RX-7's
21
10-18-15 04:01 PM
