Few pic
For guys want to see stock FD modified subframe for 20B.
You need to back trans. 3", make oil pan and change oil pick-up mount.

 

On a side note, how much does that subframe weigh since you have it out. Once I finish up my Miata project in next couple of months, I should be able to start on my FD this summer, and I am debating about having my fab guy build a tubular subframe. If the dollar/lbs weight savings works out.

 

18.5 Lbs
But i thing is not easy to fabricate subframe as rigid and less weight.
And no problem with inspection police.

 

So, is that stock subframe or did you modify it??
is there a reason why you moded your subframe instead of using 13b rear plate??

 

You need to modify the height of steering rack if you want to close your hood.
Because the motor is over steering rack. It's not for rear motor mount.
Anybody have pic from stock steering rack position?

 

OR have you thought about shortening the LIM??
That's what I'm about to do..

Also, if you don't mind, would you share your ideas on the oil pan?

 

No, i don't cut LIM.
Pic of my oil pan ( but i just start the construction ) this week-end i work on.
I want pan good for 8.5 Litre, now is just possible to put 7.5 Litre.

 

Nice oil pan!! would you be interested in making one for an FC application? Id like to be able to keep the stock sway bar if possible. plus, your oil pan looks stout!

 

speaking of sway bars..... in the FD applications what happens?? i just got my pettit frame, and just looking at it, it seems that it comes realllyyyyy close, if not contacts the sway bar. just wondering what the deal is with that... i guess ill find out when i install it

 

What about Bump-steering ? Would that be a problem with the modified FD sub-frame?

 

nice oil pan.. wondering do you think it will work with stock subframe (non modded like yours)?? and clear stock steering rack?

 

You need absolutely to modded the location for your steering rack if you don't want to cut LIM.
It's about .500" lower in the rear attachment and little more in the front ( incline ).
No problem with the sway bar because you back little in same time you make inclination.
For bumper steering i thing it's not noticiable.
If you want more pic ask the angle you want now because i put back all parts and i don,t remove after that.
In same time i use the stock 20B motor mount ( starter side ) because i thing i put auto trand. in the few time.

 

I see..

My plan is to cut the LIM.. I've kind of figured it out how much..
Also, I'm getting the engine built and putting the 13b-rew rear plate.
I'm now considering putting all 13b housings and rotors.. as I've heard its better??

My only concern is the Oil pan.. I'm waiting to get a stock subframe and start figuring out the fitment with steering rack.

Thanks for the info and post as many pics as you can.. I'll try to do the same as I begin my project.

PHIL

 

I thing if you pass over the steering rack and cut LIM the alternator hit the hood.
Because i back 3" and lower trans. 2" and is just good for alternator adjustement.

 

Ok I see the modification to the mounting surface for the rack. How much is the rack lowered?

Edit: Did you have to shorten the drive shaft 3"?

 

About .500" lower in rear attachment and little more in front, and yes i cut drive shaft 3".

 

Ok I guess my next question is did you shorten and rebalance the drive shaft "yourself" or did you have a specialty shop do that.

Thx for answering all my questions!

 

Just machine shop.

 

Okay, I've read this many times in many 20b forums, and I have to speak up. I have looked into using a FD rear plate on a 20B, and in short it is not POSSIBLE!! First of all, I dont know if the # series is this way, but all the letter series have two larger tension bolts, and there is NOT enough cast iron to machine the smaller tension holes large enough. Also the port size of the FD is WAYYYYYY off in size, and is NOT possible to port match it without hitting the AIR. So, unless I've missed something totally, it just isnt going to work. See pic of port comparison

 

Wow thx. Your making this conversion thing seam easier & easier.

 

Nobody said that it was as simple as to just swapping the plates. Red-Rx7 showed a pic clearly showing that he had the Fd's rear plate on his conversion. Port matching won't be that much of a problem. Now as far as the tension bolts are concerned, you got me on that one.

Edit: I was looking at your pic and there is plenty of material to port match the Fd rear plate. Look at the bottom half of the port. See those small holes underneith the ports? Thats were the extra material can be removed to match up to the 20b LIM. The 20b plates shows to have less material above those square holes when you compare it to the 13b plate.

 

It is possible to bore out the tension bolt holes you just have to take your time, T-VON is right you take material out the bottom of the port.

 

 

come on! you can't post a photo like that ^ and walk off.
more please

 

he can if it was 4 years ago

he sold that car a while back