I did a search, and found a thread asking the same question, but no real information on it.

I'm building a 20b n/a and have no plans to boost it currently. I was shopping between the lt12s and the e11v2, when i had an idea.

What negative effects would i have running leading and trailing together using say a e6x. I've seen a few 20b n/a race cars running like this.

I will drive the car very frequently during the summer, and occasionally track the car.

 

for what it's worth, I advice using haltech over microtech strongly.

The reason is, if you buy a microtech, you by a microtech for your motor, in this case a 20B. If for any reason down the road you want to run say a 13B with it, back to australia it goes.

i'm sure others have had better experiences, but all of my friends who run microtechs have had a real pain in the *** of a time shipping their ecus to and fro.

haltech, on the other hand, can be reconfigured ad infinitum by you, at home.

just my 2 cents
ryan

 

There is NO adverse effect in fireing (L) & (T) at the same time for an N/A application.

This is how all PP. endurance race engines have been run forever. and are N/A.

You will give up a little driveability specially on trailig throtle overruns and transition back into throthle. .......But that's IT !

 

I run no split on my MoTeC M8....

 

no split is fine, but you want to still run 6 coils. sequential fuel injection is good too

 

You could run three dual post coils no?

 

will it hurt daily drivability / gas mileage much if at all?

Carlos yea thats what i was noticing as well, so figured it probably would be ok.

So general consensus is that i should be fine running it on an e6x.

 

No. Dual output coils like the FC type were meant to be run one in compression and the other in exhaust, ala "wasted spark" (piston engine term). They don't work right if fired in the same chamber.

 

True. Didn't think about that.

 

Beg to DIFFER !

I run the twin tower coils ( dual output ) on ALL the PP. engines I build including the 3 Rotor in my GT-1 car, hitting (L) & (T) at the same time, ... configured as : 1 coil per rotor, each w/ a deditaded MSD.

Works perfect. right through the limiter set @ 9.8 K
Have done some side port race engines configured this way as well.
No problems, runs great.

BTW, this is how MOTEC does it also.

 

Great. Exactly what i wanted to hear.

 

key words being "each w/ a dedicated msd"

i used fd leadings, with no msd's and it was really weak.... 6 coils, it wasnt weak

 

Dude,
It all has to do w/real world reality & performance, Vs. how CHEAP you want to "get by" with.
When using Twin Tower coils, You are attempting on sparking 2 plugs at the same time, meaming You are spliting the igniter's ( AMPLIFIER'S ) coil saturation voltage into fireing 2 plugs, at the same time.
The available voltage must "JUMP" simulstaniably across 2 pug gaps @ once.

Hello ??

No wonder the spark is week !!!

It takes the minimum of 4 times the available saturated voltage, if not more to jump across 2 spark plugs at the same time from the same coil.

Now, how much spark energy does one need for a side port street engine ?

Think about this just a bit ........

On a regular distributor, the spark from the coil must first travel across the Hi tention lead on to the distributor cap. a) jump across the Dist. cap's contacts to the rotor. b) Jump from the rotor "BACK" to the cap's designated post, c) Jump back though the plug lead, across the ressistance of that wire. & d) Across the spark plug's gap. before it can deliver a spark to the mixturre.

Many of the fastest & World Record setting drag racers from PR. run old school distributors for ignition.

So how weak is that ?

Before Direct Fire, or Coil on Plug technology existed, many a Hi boost, Hi Hp. engines were run on the "ignition of the day" at a time when DIS or MSD did NOT exist. examples: Porsche 956, 917 K , 962, ect.

So what's the deal about weak spark ?

With reasonably good compression, the weakest of spark's will ignite a cylinder.
As boost increases, so does the need for spark strengh.

So .......one can either a) use direct and dedicated drivers & igniters, ala MOTEC, or b) use per Rotor amplifhiers ( MSD's ) ala CLR. & others to get equal or better voltage to the coils & plugs.

Point been: One must fist think outside the box, try it, see if it works for Your self, before passing judgement on what works and what doesn't

GT1-20b

 

You did a great job at writing a lot of paragraphs arguing with somebody who agrees with you, lol.

 

hagagagah

 

Carlos.
That's the problem!
Nobody thinks anymore.

Ok. All jokes aside!
I can't even begin to list the number of different setups and people running FC coils on the said application with high horsepower/high boost/ high rpms without misfires or weak spark issues. No matter what we seem to think and believe in theory it can never be replaced by actual trial and error and the proven results of many.
So the point is-->
Would you judge how efficent a coil spark output is just by looking at it or by actually doing some research and development?

 

[QUOTE=crispeed]Carlos.
That's the problem!
Nobody thinks anymore.


Yes Criss,

So true .....

 

Wow, I think this is really good info.

I'm in the process of putting funds together. I want to build an N/A 20B for a "daily driver" (not really since I drive the company car most of the time). One of the things I was considering was using 3 FC leading coils, one on each rotor.

So, I take it, that would be fine as long as I have 3 MSDs or something similar to boost the output of each then... awesome.

Also, not to get too far off topic, but Carlos, I was just wondering what you have to do to push the redline on a 20B all the way to 9.8k? I'm considering a peripheral port so I'd like to be able to spin the engine high enough.

 

i'm going to try and run it on 3 fc leading coils and no msd's. hopefully it will be ok

 

a) Lightweight Rotors
b) Extremly accurate Static & Dynamic balance of complete rotating assembly
c) Dry sump
d) Enough port timing !



PP. for the street ??? ...

 

Yeah, Maxt over on TeamFC3S had some pretty good results on his PP 13b. It only dynoed around 200 whp but the idle and driveability is good, so I'm looking into that.

 

I ran 3 Leading coils on my 20B n/a setup. Worked great, i tuned on 91 octane to reduce the chance of knock running it that way.

 

 

whats so funny? He did something different, and it runs. Too much hate on these boards.

 

You know, You were right.

But no need to redicule the boys above ( TAL ) for trying.

GT1-20b