Yet another Nikki problem
08-06-10, 07:07 AM
#26
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Okay, I'll take a stab at it again.
The problem is ignition related, my dear Watson. As evidenced by the fact that you cannot adjust the trailing ignition split. The wires are hooked up wrong, and he is actually firing one leading and one trailing plug off the leading ignitor, while the trailing ignitor is also firing one leading and one trailing plug.
Elementary....
The problem is ignition related, my dear Watson. As evidenced by the fact that you cannot adjust the trailing ignition split. The wires are hooked up wrong, and he is actually firing one leading and one trailing plug off the leading ignitor, while the trailing ignitor is also firing one leading and one trailing plug.
Elementary....
08-06-10, 05:07 PM
#27
Ha, Ha!. . .no pistons.
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So which wires are to be adjusted? It really is scary how our cars are matching. Every symptom OP is posting is displayed by my car, and every step to rectify it is mirrored by my Me.
I've wired my ignition system up per the FSM, as well as trial and error to no real avail. Any tips for where to start looking for someone who's out of ideas?
<3 thanks Kentetsu (And everyone else here helping!!)
I've wired my ignition system up per the FSM, as well as trial and error to no real avail. Any tips for where to start looking for someone who's out of ideas?
<3 thanks Kentetsu (And everyone else here helping!!)
08-06-10, 05:10 PM
#28
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Okay, I'll take a stab at it again.
The problem is ignition related, my dear Watson. As evidenced by the fact that you cannot adjust the trailing ignition split. The wires are hooked up wrong, and he is actually firing one leading and one trailing plug off the leading ignitor, while the trailing ignitor is also firing one leading and one trailing plug.
Elementary....
The problem is ignition related, my dear Watson. As evidenced by the fact that you cannot adjust the trailing ignition split. The wires are hooked up wrong, and he is actually firing one leading and one trailing plug off the leading ignitor, while the trailing ignitor is also firing one leading and one trailing plug.
Elementary....
08-06-10, 05:27 PM
#30
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Ok looked again and it appears those wires have not been modified in any way. There are simply 2 plugs that connect to the ignitors. Wondering how one would mess them up. I can reverse them but leading would just change to trailing and still be oddly firing at the same time...
08-06-10, 07:55 PM
#31
Ha, Ha!. . .no pistons.
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I have a total of 6 connections on my coils. 2 being ground wires, two heading off to the dizzy, and two headed back to a relay. I think the blue-capped green/yellow wire is my problem (I can disconnect it without the engine dying or skipping a beat, and it shows resistance when checked with a multimeter.)
08-08-10, 11:36 AM
#32
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Yeah i can pull either coil completely out and it does not affect how the car runs at all. I dont see the ignition causing this as every single component has been checked or replaced. Any other suggestions?
08-08-10, 12:22 PM
#33
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Was just thinking about this and wondering if a bad ground could cause this? I have noticed that as the bogging is happening that the tach jumps erratically. Thinking maby this is a clue... Also wondering where would be the best places to reground would be.
08-08-10, 03:36 PM
#34
Their are basics to look at here-
It's an 85 so the fuel pump circuit goes through the "Trailing" ignitor. If the screws are corroded that hold the ignitor in place then their is a chance that the ground for the ignitor is going away. The tachometer gets it signal through the trailing side so if it is jumping when this happens it is possible that your issue is with the ignitor.
You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a test drive and see when it bogs if you are losing fuel pressure.
I would also test fuel volume.
Your quote-
Yeah i can pull either coil completely out and it does not affect how the car runs at all. I dont see the ignition causing this as every single component has been checked or replaced. Any other suggestions?
Could you explain this?
Are you saying that you have removed the trailing or leading coil and nothing changes?
It's an 85 so the fuel pump circuit goes through the "Trailing" ignitor. If the screws are corroded that hold the ignitor in place then their is a chance that the ground for the ignitor is going away. The tachometer gets it signal through the trailing side so if it is jumping when this happens it is possible that your issue is with the ignitor.
You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a test drive and see when it bogs if you are losing fuel pressure.
I would also test fuel volume.
Your quote-
Yeah i can pull either coil completely out and it does not affect how the car runs at all. I dont see the ignition causing this as every single component has been checked or replaced. Any other suggestions?
Could you explain this?
Are you saying that you have removed the trailing or leading coil and nothing changes?
08-08-10, 04:55 PM
#35
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Their are basics to look at here-
It's an 85 so the fuel pump circuit goes through the "Trailing" ignitor. If the screws are corroded that hold the ignitor in place then their is a chance that the ground for the ignitor is going away. The tachometer gets it signal through the trailing side so if it is jumping when this happens it is possible that your issue is with the ignitor.
You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a test drive and see when it bogs if you are losing fuel pressure.
I would also test fuel volume.
Your quote-
Yeah i can pull either coil completely out and it does not affect how the car runs at all. I dont see the ignition causing this as every single component has been checked or replaced. Any other suggestions?
Could you explain this?
Are you saying that you have removed the trailing or leading coil and nothing changes?
It's an 85 so the fuel pump circuit goes through the "Trailing" ignitor. If the screws are corroded that hold the ignitor in place then their is a chance that the ground for the ignitor is going away. The tachometer gets it signal through the trailing side so if it is jumping when this happens it is possible that your issue is with the ignitor.
You can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and take it for a test drive and see when it bogs if you are losing fuel pressure.
I would also test fuel volume.
Your quote-
Yeah i can pull either coil completely out and it does not affect how the car runs at all. I dont see the ignition causing this as every single component has been checked or replaced. Any other suggestions?
Could you explain this?
Are you saying that you have removed the trailing or leading coil and nothing changes?
08-08-10, 04:57 PM
#36
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Also my fuel pump no longer gets a signal from any factory means as it is on its own circuit. The wiring was bad when the previous engine was installed so it is wired by a switch and all new wiring.
08-08-10, 08:29 PM
#38
OK so I think I may have figured this out. I do think it is at least mostly related to timing. Well, I at least know that it is set wrong. Not sure if it will fix the problem or not.
I was setting TDC by the flywheel method but was using the top inspection plate instead of the side one by the exhaust. In other words i do believe the timing is way off and is probably going way too advanced or something when at full mechanical advance (which is why the problem happens around 3500 RPM it seems). I will update with what is found.
-IanS
I was setting TDC by the flywheel method but was using the top inspection plate instead of the side one by the exhaust. In other words i do believe the timing is way off and is probably going way too advanced or something when at full mechanical advance (which is why the problem happens around 3500 RPM it seems). I will update with what is found.
-IanS
08-08-10, 09:07 PM
#39
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looking at what ian sent and thinking i got a hell of a lot of work to do. Stupid *** Japanese engineers...... every other company in the world has indexed crank pullies but mazda had to go and throw it all out the window... ********
08-08-10, 11:22 PM
#42
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ok I was not aware of the side plate. After removing it I found that someone has indeed removed the front pulley and set it back in at 90 degrees off. Now it will not come off so I can fix it, still does not explain the zero split or jumpy tach.... Now I am trying to understand why Mazda thought the front pulley needed a huge nut torqued in so tight to hold that pulley in there after the 4 10mm nuts are out...
08-08-10, 11:28 PM
#43
Do not remove that nut! The pulley should come off after you remove the 4 bolts. Tap it with a rubber mallet to loosen it.
ok I was not aware of the side plate. After removing it I found that someone has indeed removed the front pulley and set it back in at 90 degrees off. Now it will not come off so I can fix it, still does not explain the zero split or jumpy tach.... Now I am trying to understand why Mazda thought the front pulley needed a huge nut torqued in so tight to hold that pulley in there after the 4 10mm nuts are out...
08-08-10, 11:32 PM
#45
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hmm, beat the crap out of the pulley with a bfh and it didnt budge. prob will need to pull the one off the old engine if it decides to let go tomorrow. Running extremely thin on patience at this point in the project. Have never had this much trouble getting a 7 to run as with this one (of 6)
08-08-10, 11:51 PM
#47
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4-10mm nots came off. its the pulley closer to the block that needs removed as this is the one the timing marks are on. It appears that it has been removed before or mazda installed it 90degrees off...