kryptonheat1

Ok so I had an unorthodox pulley kit installed on the car about three years ago and the car was in hibernation for two and a half of those years. I recently failed emissions so I thought it was a messed up exhaust system, so I bought/installed two new high flow cat converters and a Monza exhaust system.

I am an idiot and it dawned on me after reading a whole bunch of threads that I am murdering my Cat, and caused it to fail my emissions originally because I don’t have the air pump connected.

I need to install the original pulley set back on the car so I can have the air pump connected again but I am not sure of how to go about it and I don’t know which pulley goes where, (I know I have to have the clutch pressed down to prevent the Torrington bearing from falling out when removing the eccentric shaft pulley), I don’t want to do it wrong and mess up the TDC or the BDC, also I don’t know why my alternator pulley is so big compared to the other’s.
If someone can please tell me which pulley goes where and what/if I should use sealants when installing the original pulleys back on. Give me a step by step so I don’t mess anything up.

Here are pic’s of what I have with numbers to refer to. sorry about Pic 1 being sideways, it goes 1, 2, 3 from right to left along with what the hell is number 4?
Thank you.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Assuming you don't have AC or PS, the pulleys are as follows. #1, air pump, #2 water pump/fan, #3 timing, #4 main pulley hub. I'm not familiar with the Unorthodox system, but if you had to remove #4, then you need to watch the torrington bearings. Pulley #3 bolts to hub #4.

In the 85 FSM you will find diagrams in Sec1, pp. 8, 21, 22, and 55. Sec. 3, Cooling, p. 10 along with the tensioning specs.

Link to FSMs is: http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

kryptonheat1

I do have the AC and Air pump but the air pump and AC both have their pulley's on them so i m guessing #1 is the alternator pulley but i can figure out why its sooo big.
thanks

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

If you measure the diameters of each of those, others could check them against their own... might make it easier for them to help you.

Hard to judge scale from the pictures.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

#1 is the main pulley on the eshaft. Alt pulley is the two gold halfs.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

#1 is not the main pulley, it's an accessory pulley. Main pulley has the timing marks and is a dual pulley, which is #3.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

I saw the two dashes on #1 and assumed it was the accessory pulley that goes on in front of the main pulley. #3 is the main pulley.

kryptonheat1

Pulley #1 is about 5 and 1/2 inches in dia.
pulley #2 is 3 and 1/2 in. dia.
pulley #3 is 4 and 1/2 in. dia.
Where does the black washer (with the spring inside) go?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

^Front cover

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

pulley 3 bolts to hub(correct clock position). pulley 1 bolts to the outside of 3, it drives the a/c. pulley 2 is w/p. the 2 pc pulley is alt. rubber ring is front seal.

BlackWorksInc

Okay, I don't know if anyone mentioned this, but on my old 12A...

But if he's got A/C then the main pulley will be in 3 parts essentially...

What I mean by that is he's going to have the main part of the pulley which goes on the E-shaft end, then the main pulley itself (double grooved one with timing marks) that can be bolted on in 90 degree incriments.

(Important to remember that if you want to find proper timing later on... I have an OLD thread about my own timing mark issue somewhere buried in the archives....)

Then your A/C pulley will bolt over the main pulley, then your fan clutch.

I don't know if that helps or confuses things... but I didn't see anyone really mention it...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

In regards to timing, set the engine at TDC before starting. Line up the pulley hub with the keyway, bolt it down per specs, up to 90 lb/ft, using Red Locktite. Then install the dual sheeve pulley with the timing marks towards the engine, lining up the mark on the right hand side with the timing pin. To block the engine while torqueing the e-shaft bolt, put the tranny in 1st gear/reverse and set the handbrake, tightly. If the the car still moves, chock the wheels. As long as the e-shaft bolt is seated firmly, you can release the clutch to torque the bolt.

If you have any doubts that the clutch hydraulics are up to holding the pedal in during the swap, test it before hand.

kryptonheat1

thanks that really does help.
i dont seem to have any bolts to connect the hub to the main pulley and it seems to need four of them, now does it need bolts or is that not required?
this is all i got, no hardware to accompany the set except whats on right now and it does not seem to have those four bolts.

BlackWorksInc

For the main pulley assembly you will need 4 bolts to combine all 3 pieces and 4 for teh clutch fan if you are using it.