K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

oh hell yes...pretty sure it was the AFM causing the trouble. was nursing the throttle and revving it...sounds like my timing is off. but still..huge improvement. ill try to make a short video.



it sounds so shitty...yet so beautiful (caution, open downpipe)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_I00ngoh78

steve84GS TII

Sounds pretty good!

You cant be too far off, if itll run that well.
Didnt sound too bad at the lower RPMs,all your chambers are firing.....get the timing and TPS adjustments taken care of and it should be great.

Also,I wouldnt rule out vacuum leaks until ALL the duct tape is gone....heh,heh...

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

just an update..have driven the car once or twice.

got into the boost a LITTLE in 2nd gear, but it has some pretty bad breakup in the upper rpm. either from lack of fuel or ignition.

one of my trailing coils is NOT firing. it's been recommended that i clean my injectors thoroughly as well...

steve84GS TII

What are you running for a fuel pump?

If its lacking fuel in the upper RPM's, with only a little or no boost.....then youve got some serious fuel delivery problems.Either some FUBAR injectors,something wrong with the AFM/vacuum leaks or your pump is wayyyy too little.Even the wimpy stock TII pump can provide enough fuel for 8-10 psi at full throttle with rich,factory A/F ratios.
Also,the FC engines have a very common 3500RPM stumble that hits when the secondary injectors come on-line.It can be reduced by having lots of engine/ECU grounds,making sure the boost sensor has its little restrictor orifice or "pill" in the vacuum hose,and having good condition injectors.Most of this stuff is common FC knowledge,so be sure to hit the FC section or TeamFC3S for info.

Dont spare any expense to be sure your state of tune is correct.That means new plugs,wires,vacuum hoses,cleaned injectors,filters and such.It sucks to spend a bunch of time fighting a miss or breakup,only to figure out later is was just a shorted plug wire or a dirty/foul sparkplug.Also,be sure the AFM stays level.Tilting or angling the S4 AFM, will upset its accurecy.

Orbital

Hey Steve and Drifter, I was wondering if you both installed a OMP, because my front cover has that area blocked off. Don't really know if I need it or not. Also, how did you setup the accel cable?

steve84GS TII

Just use the stock cable for the engine you run.It will fit the 1st gen firewall and gas pedal perfectly.

You most definately need the OMP,unless you premix oil in the gas.With no OMP or premix,the engine is dead meat.
I kept my OMP because I run a S5 ECU,which will NOT work right without the electric OMP plugged in and working.That required some custom work to the GSL-SE front cover,but it works like stock and the S5 ECU is happy.
If you run a standalone ECU or a S4 ECU,then you can either bolt up a S4 mechanical OMP onto a GSL-SE front cover,or you can run any 1st gen front cover you want,and just block off the OMP pad and run premix in the tank.

Orbital

I am using a S5 ECU, thus meaning that I need the electric OMP? I purchased 1 before and I tried to put it on but it was blocked off. And if i remember correctly, the previous owner was running premix with his 12a before I yanked it out.
So what kind of custom work needs to be done? my 13b block has a 12a front cover, not from a gsl-se.

steve84GS TII

Take a S5 front cover,S5 OMP and a 1st gen front cover to a good machine shop.That way they can see the OMP's footprint,and what they are shooting for(the S5 front cover OMP pad).The idea is to duplicate the S5's OMP pad on the 1st gen front cover.

They will have to TIG weld the mounting pad on the 1st gen cover,to make the pad bigger and wider.Then the pad will be machined flat,and new holes drilled and tapped to accept the larger,3 bolt S5 OMP. Mine came out great and has worked fine for 5 years.Cost about 175 bucks and took a week.

Im not 100% sure if the oil feed hole and drive tang of the 12A front cover will work on the S5 OMP.....I used a GSL-SE front cover.
I know the oil hole/gasket type is different on the 12A,youll have to hold them together and see where everything lines up.The oil hole on the cover needs to fall within the rubber O-ring on the OMP.If it doesnt,youll have to get ahold of a GSL-SE front cover and perform the aformentioned mods to it.

Orbital

Wow, thats lame. I actually thought I was almost done with the swap... I suppose I'll just buy a -se front cover when buying a S5 front cover. I guess this gives me time to get a disk/lsd rear end and install that while the front cover welding it being done/etc.

Umm, do you know of any other big jobs that need to be done while I have the engine out? Anymore welding? Custom fitting?

steve84GS TII

No welding or major custom stuff.The S5 13B fits up to a 1st gen just like any other 13B,except for the OMP issue.

There is one other alternative,it works but I cannot gaurantee that it would be a permanent fix...........
You can leave the OMP pad blocked off, use the 12A front cover to mount the engine and run premix oil in the fuel tank.Then plug the S5 OMP into the main wiring harness,and tie the OMP off to the side of the engine bay.The ECU will see that the OMP is plugged in and working,so the engine will run fine,while getting its lube from the pre-mix gas.

The hang up is that when plugged in,the OMP internals will be actuated and moving,via commands from the ECU.But,since the OMP is not attached to the engine,there is no oil flowing into it.I dont know how long the OMP would last without lubrication.I did this for a couple weeks until I got my S5 front cover put in,and the engine ran fine,but a couple weeks isnt enough time to confirm that this would be considered a "permanent" fix. Also,there is no known way to trick the S5 ECU into thinking the OMP is there,when its not......thats why so many people opt for a standalone ECU or a mechanical S4 engine setup.

Orbital

Hmm, yeah if no one knows for sure how long that setup would last, then I don't even want to risk it. I'll just continue with the welding job, since all i have is time.