Would parking at an angle affect ease of starting the car?
03-15-04, 10:20 AM
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Would parking at an angle affect ease of starting the car?
My car (which I have owned for almost 2.5 days) didn't want to start this morning. I haven't driven it since Saturday afternoon, and I parked it on an incline. I was wondering if parking on a non-level surface could affect start up, or if these cars (mine is an SE) are just finicky about starting.
The guy I bought it from told me to turn the engine over 2 or 3 times then let off. Then crank it till it starts which every other time has been less than 8 turns. Sound normal?
The guy I bought it from told me to turn the engine over 2 or 3 times then let off. Then crank it till it starts which every other time has been less than 8 turns. Sound normal?
03-15-04, 11:25 AM
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
First off, parking the car on an incline has nothing to do with whether it will start unless your fuel pump is so far gone that it can't develop enough pressure to properly power the EFI system. With EFI, you should be able to remove the engine, turn it upside down on a stand, and still get it to start - running without oil pressure will be a problem since the sump is dry, but it should start just fine. No carb bowls to have filled, since it's EFI.
As to the 'standard' startup procedure for an SE, it goes as follows;
1) Turn key to 'On' position, and check idiot lights to be sure they all light up (Brake will only show if Parking Brake is set, or fluid is low).
2) Press accelerator pedal all the way to the floor (ONCE), then release it completely - this resets the fast idle cam on the thermowax pellet and allows for cold-start functions to work correctly.
3) Crank engine until started, no more than 10-15 seconds at a time, and with a 30 second pause if you have to crank that long - this prevents you from overheating your starter in the event that it's flooded. My SE turns over on the first crank, usually the first revolution, and only requires about a 1/2 second of key cranking before it's running.
4) Check oil pressure gauge to be sure it's showing - it will normally be a bit higher than normal operating temperature, since the oil is cold and thus thicker - generates more pressure.
5) Check Ammeter for proper charge current - should be over 12, not more than about 14. If your alternator is bad, all idiot lights will remain lit, and charging system will show pegged at the top or the bottom.
6) Check engine temperature - within about 1-2 minutes of startup, the engine temp gauge (which measures water, not oil temp), should bump off the lower pin. I don't drive it until the needle is off the pin. Once driving, watch it to be sure it doesn't go over the 'normal' range temperature.
That's about it. On shutdown, most people here know this, but it deserves saying - let the engine cool down for 30 seconds or so after hard driving, more if you drove it REALLY hard just before getting home, and also, don't ever shut the car off right after you started it (within 1-2 minutes). If it doesn't reach operating temperature, you may face problems with carbon locking due to engine not being warmed up sufficiently prior to shutdown. Documented here and elsewhere as a common cause of 'no-start, no crank'.
This usually occurs when you start it to move it onto the driveway for a wash, then it won't turn over when you try to move it back into the garage. Plan your trips, so that if you start it, you give it time to warm up completely. Saves many headaches down the road with MMO, ATF, and hand-cranking... HTH,
As to the 'standard' startup procedure for an SE, it goes as follows;
1) Turn key to 'On' position, and check idiot lights to be sure they all light up (Brake will only show if Parking Brake is set, or fluid is low).
2) Press accelerator pedal all the way to the floor (ONCE), then release it completely - this resets the fast idle cam on the thermowax pellet and allows for cold-start functions to work correctly.
3) Crank engine until started, no more than 10-15 seconds at a time, and with a 30 second pause if you have to crank that long - this prevents you from overheating your starter in the event that it's flooded. My SE turns over on the first crank, usually the first revolution, and only requires about a 1/2 second of key cranking before it's running.
4) Check oil pressure gauge to be sure it's showing - it will normally be a bit higher than normal operating temperature, since the oil is cold and thus thicker - generates more pressure.
5) Check Ammeter for proper charge current - should be over 12, not more than about 14. If your alternator is bad, all idiot lights will remain lit, and charging system will show pegged at the top or the bottom.
6) Check engine temperature - within about 1-2 minutes of startup, the engine temp gauge (which measures water, not oil temp), should bump off the lower pin. I don't drive it until the needle is off the pin. Once driving, watch it to be sure it doesn't go over the 'normal' range temperature.
That's about it. On shutdown, most people here know this, but it deserves saying - let the engine cool down for 30 seconds or so after hard driving, more if you drove it REALLY hard just before getting home, and also, don't ever shut the car off right after you started it (within 1-2 minutes). If it doesn't reach operating temperature, you may face problems with carbon locking due to engine not being warmed up sufficiently prior to shutdown. Documented here and elsewhere as a common cause of 'no-start, no crank'.
This usually occurs when you start it to move it onto the driveway for a wash, then it won't turn over when you try to move it back into the garage. Plan your trips, so that if you start it, you give it time to warm up completely. Saves many headaches down the road with MMO, ATF, and hand-cranking... HTH,
03-15-04, 01:17 PM
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WOW! Yes that helps. Thanks for all that info. I wonder why your car would start so quickly while my car does not. I am going to start replacing everything on the car in due time. Maybe I will stumble across some tired parts and alleviate my problem.
03-15-04, 03:42 PM
#4
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Fast start is attributable to only a few things; clean TB and plenum, good compression, hot spark, and correct timing.
Throttle Body (TB) cleanliness keeps everything working smoothly so that you get the right air/fuel mixture - 14.7:1 ration of air to gasoline. Any more and you're too rich, any less and you're too lean. The SE ECU is very good at mapping this based on many outside factors including outside air temp, intake air temp, atmospheric pressure, coolant temp, clutch switch, etc.
Compression is required otherwise you won't get good air/fuel mix compacted down to the right ratio for a clean burn. Clean burn is necessary to get a good, sharp power cycle.
Hot spark helps to get the a/f mixture burning quickly and thoroughly during the power and exhaust cycles, and is based on timing being perfect so that the spark hits right at maximum compression.
All of these factors are necessary to get an easy starting rotary, even if you're driving a car with a carb.
Throttle Body (TB) cleanliness keeps everything working smoothly so that you get the right air/fuel mixture - 14.7:1 ration of air to gasoline. Any more and you're too rich, any less and you're too lean. The SE ECU is very good at mapping this based on many outside factors including outside air temp, intake air temp, atmospheric pressure, coolant temp, clutch switch, etc.
Compression is required otherwise you won't get good air/fuel mix compacted down to the right ratio for a clean burn. Clean burn is necessary to get a good, sharp power cycle.
Hot spark helps to get the a/f mixture burning quickly and thoroughly during the power and exhaust cycles, and is based on timing being perfect so that the spark hits right at maximum compression.
All of these factors are necessary to get an easy starting rotary, even if you're driving a car with a carb.
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