would this be alright to do to get my car painted?
08-30-03, 04:04 PM
#1
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would this be alright to do to get my car painted?
ok i want a nice looking paint job but im really trying to save money (im 17). so i was thinking of doing the entire prep job myself. then spray can the engine compartment (primer,base,clear), buy my own paint stuff for the body and take it to like maaco and give them the prepped car and paint and have them paint it. i am doing black. do u think i can save alot of money by doing this? is it a bad idea to use the rattle can stuff for the engine compartment?
08-30-03, 04:16 PM
#2
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hmmm maaco does a terrible job imo but is the car black right now? Do u have any rust? If u have rust i would get that fixed first. I would personally stay away from maaco and save up and get it done right the first time.
08-30-03, 05:33 PM
#6
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if you have a b&r paint and body near you, they rule! you could bring it to "2 man custom auto" here in NC! 
hahahaha, they're amazing. if you do the prep work they knock 20% off the paint price. top notch quality. good choice though to go black! our cars look uber sweet in dark skin. haha
hahahaha, they're amazing. if you do the prep work they knock 20% off the paint price. top notch quality. good choice though to go black! our cars look uber sweet in dark skin. haha
08-30-03, 06:03 PM
#7
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Originally posted by FB II
if you have a b&r paint and body near you, they rule! you could bring it to "2 man custom auto" here in NC! hahahaha, they're amazing. if you do the prep work they knock 20% off the paint price. top notch quality. good choice though to go black! our cars look uber sweet in dark skin. haha
if you have a b&r paint and body near you, they rule! you could bring it to "2 man custom auto" here in NC!
hahahaha, they're amazing. if you do the prep work they knock 20% off the paint price. top notch quality. good choice though to go black! our cars look uber sweet in dark skin. haha
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08-30-03, 06:44 PM
#8
Senior Member
Ditto. Prepping is critical, and the most time consuming part of the job. Any idiot with a few hours of training and a good spray gun can shoot decent looking paint. If you are careful, you can even use a spray can and get reasonable results. However, the end result and overall look of the job is highly dependent on the prep work.
My experience and observations with Maaco is that they actually spray fairly well but their prep work is minimal which is why you can get a paint job for $200.
If you are serious about saving money, read up on how to prep and paint, find a body shop and tell them what you want to do, and ask for their advice. They may be willing to work with you and guide you along (hell, while you're there ask them for a job as a helper) .
Good luck.
My experience and observations with Maaco is that they actually spray fairly well but their prep work is minimal which is why you can get a paint job for $200.
If you are serious about saving money, read up on how to prep and paint, find a body shop and tell them what you want to do, and ask for their advice. They may be willing to work with you and guide you along (hell, while you're there ask them for a job as a helper) .
Good luck.
08-30-03, 06:45 PM
#9
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ok... i'm speaking from experience here and all i can say is that you will need a guiding hand along the way while you prep your car.
i've done body work in the past and infact i learned on my first gen.
prepping the existing surface is a tedious job. make sure you have pleanty of supplies and consult the shop that you have chosen to shoot the car when you are done to see what materials they rccomend and to see what paint the use in their guns.
most decent shops won't spray another brand of paint through their guns because all of the different brands have their own mixing formulations. if you plan on buying paint it's a good idea to buy what the shop uses. they're both familiar with its spray characteristics and they don't have to worry about contaminating their guns with foreign products.
if you are going to have your car shot with black paint then you will need to pay extra special attention to the details in the prep work. Black paint shows EVERY flaw! do not primer the car using the krylon touch if you are going to expect your paint to hold. if you want a quality job then use quality products... again... find out what your favorite body shop reccomends.
to begin the prep process you need to start by THOROUGHLY washing the car to make sure that there is absolutley no wax or residue on the car's surface.
after washing the car and using a chamois to dry it you need to wipe it clean with a no-lint rag soaked in solvent - do this 3 or 4 times.
once you are done with the solvent wash you can begin the sanding process. if you paint is in good overall condition you can start with 600 grit right away. I would reccomend getting a random orbital sander for this because and entire car can become VERY tiresome by hand.
i would move to 800 and then 1000grit and lay the primer over the 1000 grit if you plan to primer the entire car. since you are going to black i would highly reccomend primering the entire car.
once the car is primered you will need to lay down a guide coat. simply put a guide coat is just a misting of black spray paint over the primer coat. once the guide coat is down you will need to do what's called "blocking" the car.
the way i typically "block" a car is to take a paint stir stick and wrap it in 1200 grit and wet sand the entire car with it.
what you are doing with this process is finding any low spots, scratches, high spots or other imperfections that you may not have otherwise seen in the previous work. primer is not a very revealing coat and is capable of hiding a TON of imperfections that will be immediatly revealed with a dark color like black.
take your time on this stage especially!
once you've completed the guide coat you will need to determine what further work needs to be done. once you are done with this step and the entire car has been repaired, primered and blocked you need to clean the primer with the same solvent wash you gave it before you started the sanding procedures.
at this point you need to seal the car up until it can be delivered to the spray booth. it is imperitive that you not exposed the primer to the elements, especially moisture. Primer is a very porous substance and will trap moisture and not reveal it until you try to lay down paint!
at any rate... this already too much info for lesson 1...
if you have any more spcific questions don't hesitate to ask!
i've done body work in the past and infact i learned on my first gen.
prepping the existing surface is a tedious job. make sure you have pleanty of supplies and consult the shop that you have chosen to shoot the car when you are done to see what materials they rccomend and to see what paint the use in their guns.
most decent shops won't spray another brand of paint through their guns because all of the different brands have their own mixing formulations. if you plan on buying paint it's a good idea to buy what the shop uses. they're both familiar with its spray characteristics and they don't have to worry about contaminating their guns with foreign products.
if you are going to have your car shot with black paint then you will need to pay extra special attention to the details in the prep work. Black paint shows EVERY flaw! do not primer the car using the krylon touch if you are going to expect your paint to hold. if you want a quality job then use quality products... again... find out what your favorite body shop reccomends.
to begin the prep process you need to start by THOROUGHLY washing the car to make sure that there is absolutley no wax or residue on the car's surface.
after washing the car and using a chamois to dry it you need to wipe it clean with a no-lint rag soaked in solvent - do this 3 or 4 times.
once you are done with the solvent wash you can begin the sanding process. if you paint is in good overall condition you can start with 600 grit right away. I would reccomend getting a random orbital sander for this because and entire car can become VERY tiresome by hand.
i would move to 800 and then 1000grit and lay the primer over the 1000 grit if you plan to primer the entire car. since you are going to black i would highly reccomend primering the entire car.
once the car is primered you will need to lay down a guide coat. simply put a guide coat is just a misting of black spray paint over the primer coat. once the guide coat is down you will need to do what's called "blocking" the car.
the way i typically "block" a car is to take a paint stir stick and wrap it in 1200 grit and wet sand the entire car with it.
what you are doing with this process is finding any low spots, scratches, high spots or other imperfections that you may not have otherwise seen in the previous work. primer is not a very revealing coat and is capable of hiding a TON of imperfections that will be immediatly revealed with a dark color like black.
take your time on this stage especially!
once you've completed the guide coat you will need to determine what further work needs to be done. once you are done with this step and the entire car has been repaired, primered and blocked you need to clean the primer with the same solvent wash you gave it before you started the sanding procedures.
at this point you need to seal the car up until it can be delivered to the spray booth. it is imperitive that you not exposed the primer to the elements, especially moisture. Primer is a very porous substance and will trap moisture and not reveal it until you try to lay down paint!
at any rate... this already too much info for lesson 1...
if you have any more spcific questions don't hesitate to ask!
08-30-03, 07:07 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
thanks for all that info gtray
31rx7, actually there is a shop around here that my friends older brother works at. ive talked to him a couple times and i could ask if i could use his shop and if he could help me out a little, that would be awesome.
31rx7, actually there is a shop around here that my friends older brother works at. ive talked to him a couple times and i could ask if i could use his shop and if he could help me out a little, that would be awesome.
08-30-03, 08:17 PM
#11
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Here's my take.
I have one of those rare nice jobs by Maaco. Take a look at the local one, the finished cars on the lot, talk to some people and get a feel if they are full of **** or not. I paid about a grand and got a really really beautiful job done. No complaints
I have one of those rare nice jobs by Maaco. Take a look at the local one, the finished cars on the lot, talk to some people and get a feel if they are full of **** or not. I paid about a grand and got a really really beautiful job done. No complaints
08-31-03, 10:06 AM
#12
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Some insight on maaco...
The guys that work for your local Maaco establishment are perfectly capable of doing quality work! The old addage "you get what you pay for" has never meant more to anyone who has paid for a paint job at maaco!
If you pay for their $200 Ambassador special then that's what you are going to get! about an hours worth of prep, $50 in spray materials and about an hour worth of taping AND spraying. That's it... you aren't paying for quality with $200.
Now, if you pay them $1000 for apaint job they are most likely going to spend somewhere around 8 hours prepping your car (that's just about an entire work day for these guys) and do a pretty good job of it. Most other body shops around town are going to spend about the same amount of time.
After they've spent the time prepping it they will probably throw in about $200 worth of supplies to paint it with a two stage (base/clear) paint job - however, if you didn't specify at the beginning, they may opt for a single stage urethane to save on some time and money and not jeopardize the quality too much. They will most likely NOT use the cheap enamels that go on the $200 paint jobs.
Getting back on topic, Maaco can do a good job... you just have to be willing to pay for it just like any other shop.
The guys that work for your local Maaco establishment are perfectly capable of doing quality work! The old addage "you get what you pay for" has never meant more to anyone who has paid for a paint job at maaco!
If you pay for their $200 Ambassador special then that's what you are going to get! about an hours worth of prep, $50 in spray materials and about an hour worth of taping AND spraying. That's it... you aren't paying for quality with $200.
Now, if you pay them $1000 for apaint job they are most likely going to spend somewhere around 8 hours prepping your car (that's just about an entire work day for these guys) and do a pretty good job of it. Most other body shops around town are going to spend about the same amount of time.
After they've spent the time prepping it they will probably throw in about $200 worth of supplies to paint it with a two stage (base/clear) paint job - however, if you didn't specify at the beginning, they may opt for a single stage urethane to save on some time and money and not jeopardize the quality too much. They will most likely NOT use the cheap enamels that go on the $200 paint jobs.
Getting back on topic, Maaco can do a good job... you just have to be willing to pay for it just like any other shop.
08-31-03, 11:58 PM
#15
Registered Piston Eater
Thread Starter
when im ready i think im gonna prep the car myself and then take it to the shop where my friends brother works cause i trust them. so for my engine compartment it would be alright for me to use spray paint? i would use primer, base, and clear coat, just use the spray cans....is this ok to do just for the engine compartment?
09-01-03, 09:04 AM
#16
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yes... you can use the krylon touch on the engine bay. jst make sure there is absolutely no grease in the engine bay when you begin to sand. if there is grease and dirt in the engine bay when you begine to sand you are just going o grind it intot he existing paint and/or metal. This is a bad this - ever seen orange peeled paint? fish-eyed paint? bubbled paint? well, that's what you'll get if you don't clean the area propperly.
in short, yes, go ahead and use spray paint in the engine bay, it's not seen very much and there are a ton of sharp, dosconnected angles that will break up any type of impoerfections in the job - i don't see it being much of a problem!
Ray
BR7 Racing
in short, yes, go ahead and use spray paint in the engine bay, it's not seen very much and there are a ton of sharp, dosconnected angles that will break up any type of impoerfections in the job - i don't see it being much of a problem!
Ray
BR7 Racing
09-02-03, 03:36 PM
#21
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There's a special paint for engine compartments available in spray cans.
09-02-03, 04:35 PM
#22
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I got the stuff at Kragens here in CA, and I think Home Depot has it. It's called "Dupli-color Chevrolet Orange with Ceramic" and it looks great under the hood of the red 83 I'm reviving. I just washed with liquid dishwashing soap, sprayed it off, and sprayed the paint on when it dried. Seems to stand up.
B
B
09-02-03, 04:56 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
sounds like some type of enamel. maybe ill use some engine enamel for the stuff thats close to the engine, exh mani, etc. and the normal krylon for the rest
09-03-03, 11:53 AM
#24
Thanks for the great input GTRay.
Unfortunately I don't have a garage and have to park REPU in the driveway. Have to grind many areas down to bare metal, derust and then primer up. So I'm concerned about primer absorbing moisture and eating the fresh metal underneath.
I'm using 2 coats Krylon Enamel Rust Preventing primer which sprays thick and seems less porous. REPU will be painted before Xmas but it might get rained on a little beforehand, and will get daily dew in the evenings. Is that 2 coats of Krylon Enamel Rust Preventing primer enough to protect it?
Should I spray a guide coat over the primer coat to seal the primer..............
Should I put my canopy up over the REPU?
Thanks,
Unfortunately I don't have a garage and have to park REPU in the driveway. Have to grind many areas down to bare metal, derust and then primer up. So I'm concerned about primer absorbing moisture and eating the fresh metal underneath.
I'm using 2 coats Krylon Enamel Rust Preventing primer which sprays thick and seems less porous. REPU will be painted before Xmas but it might get rained on a little beforehand, and will get daily dew in the evenings. Is that 2 coats of Krylon Enamel Rust Preventing primer enough to protect it?
Should I spray a guide coat over the primer coat to seal the primer..............
Should I put my canopy up over the REPU?
Thanks,
Last edited by DriveFast7; 09-03-03 at 12:00 PM.
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