REVHED

Yep, thats right. 48mm IDA complete with manifold and K&N. Only thing is it's setup for a 13B bridge-port. I was wandering if anyone here can give me recommendations regarding venturi size, jetting, emulsion tubes etc for a 12A street-port. I will be fine tuning it on the dyno but I'd like to get it in the ball park first. Any links to sites with this info would be good too. Thanks.

Felix Wankel

I paid twice that for my 45DCOE

piston pounder

me too.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Thats a GOOD buy dude!!! I had a chance to get the dual weber setup once for cheap, but the guy didnt know jack about it or if all the parts where there...

REVHED

Yeah, I'm pretty happy with it to say the least. Just gotta swap the 13B manifold for a 12A item and I'll slap it on. Hopefully get it on the dyno next week. Now can anyone help me with those specs?

BeaterRacer

Here's what I have from Rob at Pineapple Racing in Portland, OR for putting a 48 IDA on a stock 12A. Not exactly what you need considering your street port but maybe helpful just the same. . .

36mm venturi
170 fuel and ??
F11 imulsion
F60 idle
drill out accel pump nozzles to 60


Questions: Where are you going to buy your 12A intake from? I'm looking for the same kind of 48 IDA setup for a stock port 12A currently. I may have found a carb but I need an intake.

Thanks,

Dan

jwork

What about air correctin jet, pump bleed and needle & seat sizes for the stock port 12 A.

And was that 170 for the main jet or the air correction jet?

Winnipeg85GSL

If I recall correctly I've been seeing lots of Weber manifolds on E-bay for $225 U.S. each.

680RWHP12A

thats a killer deal!! wwwwooooaaahhhhh!!


jetting for streetport as follows


42 mm venturis
220 fuel jet
170 air jet
f11 e tubes
0 bypass pump jet (if it was on a rotary it probably has it already)
300 needle valve

done ,,,if you want more low end go with 40mm venturis BUT you will loose top end power!

Rotortuner

I think thats a little ratical for a street port 12a. Those callibrations are pretty close to what i run on my PP. Downing/RB suggest the following for ported 12a (downing /RB recomende almost exactly the above that 680 RWHP posted for a bridge):

37mm Venturies
#170 main fuel
#150 Air
F11 e tubes

It doesnt really matter what needle and seat. for 12a thats not highly modded whatever is in it should be fine. If the motor is a big bridge or something just make sure you have at least a 3.0. I run a 3.3 on my car.
Has the carb been rebuilt recently? If it hasnt you shuold get it rebuilt. The passeges and stuff internally can become clogged quite easily. If not how long has it been since its been run on a car?

CJG

680RWHP12A

thats what you run in a p-port???WTF???must have been slow!!!in our p-port we ran 46 mm venturies and a 48 carb was too small, we had to upgrade to a 51 weber!!!110 air jets though that car went 1140 all motor by the way!

Rotortuner

You guys probably had a 13b. Mine is a 12a. And mine was set up for street, not an all out drag set up. the smaller venturies improve the mid range a lot and i made my own housings. In 12a you can only go so big or your seals break as they go accross the port.

CJG

1genrx7

Im looking for setup for 12a bridgeport and found this guy selling, webers dual down drafts 36 with manifold
for $500.00.Will this be good for bridge

Thanks

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Foor street driving that should be fine. Might need to enlarge the venturi's and rejet though.

If it's a race only setup I am curious if the dual Weber 36 DCD's can flow enough to keep up with a thirsty bridgeport. I've had dual 45 DCOE's reccomended for my race only 12a J-bridge.

knight rider

i looking for ida for 13b

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Here you go from RB:
http://www.racingbeat.com/PDF/webercomponents.pdf

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

And I just noticed this thread is from 2003. Bravo...

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

thats is almost exactly what I have in my 48 IDA on my 12a large street port, my main circuit is 200/150, but I use some huge pump jets (80's), and a set of those orange spacers to bring some power back down low(i had them from a 1/2 bridge I used to run) these require an engine torque brace if you don't want to dent your hood/air cleaner assembly

this mix runs good as a daily driver, as long as you don't get too excited picking it up off the line

if you cant stand the bog from your heavy foot off the line then you will need smaller chokes, its a 2 barrel and its big you can open the throttle plates up too quickly for the progression/accelerator circuits to make up for the increase in air volume and go lean and loose all power, I found that the huge pump jets got my 42 mm chokes to run better than my 40's did previously,

make sure its got 3 progression holes

Clearkut

iTrader: (1)

your right i need to read dates