Wiring + rebuild + newb =NIGHTMARE!
#28
Ahhh..... awsome guys, thanks for all the help. Pipes froze last night, so I didn't get a chance to get at the wiring today. New loom, ignition modules, weber air cleaner, wire and carb gaskets arrived though. Damn it's like early x-mas ..... more on the way! I CANNOT WAIT to get this baby done and roadworthy. My wife thinks I'm a moron for putting all the time and effort into it. Then again, maybe describing the car as "Sex on wheels" has something to do with it. LOL!
#29
I've been tryin to figure out how to do just that.
I would leave the choke and check relay. I've managed to have the choke work correctly and automatically, like stock, with both a Mikuni and the RE dual DCD carbs. Beats sitting there holding the choke out by hand on cold mornings. Not sure what the check part of that relay does. Be sure to keep the oscillator. It powers the warning buzzer for low water and oil.
#31
Direct fire gurus, or anyone else. LOL
I've got the gist of the wiring, have my HEI ignition modules and new coils/wires, but I want to make an ignition box that looks "factory" or just plain clean. I ordered some weathertight connections and heat shrink to "clean up" what you HAVE to see. I have an idea for a box, but it depends on mounting the modules stacked. What I mean is, can I run a proper sized bolt through all 3 on each end, (using 1/4 to 3/8 metal spacers in between each) then to my grounded mounting plate? since the brass "ring" you mount through is the ground for the modules, wouldn't that work ok to ground them? Secondly, would that be enough room between each to dissapate any heat generated? (I don't know how much heat they actually put out, if any) I'd like to mount them in this manner inside an aluminum box I have, drill holes through the sides w/rubber grommets and weathertight plugs to the dizzy and coils respectively. Also a 30/40 relay inside. Does anyone see anything wrong with this setup? Anything I may need to account for? It should end up a VERY clean, hidden setup.
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