Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

What color is it you are using- Looks like a standard white in some pics, and a bit more cream in others...


For my car, im going either Harvest Moon beige from VW-








or just go with the stock RX7 cream color

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

its supposed to be championship white which is supposed to be really bright white, but it does look a little less bright white than i wanted lol there is a good coat of dust on it now though.. whose car is that^ the white fb? Thats the EXACT look im going for, less the body mouldings.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

thats just after i got them and gave them a quick wash. Im goint to pull the centers out and hopefully powder coat them, then re polish the lips. I paid $100 for the set with center caps!

MountainScreamer

Super Class right there. Those are actually different from the ones I had in mind, I was thinking of the Apache 2s.
http://i447.photobucket.com/albums/q...th_apache2.jpg

Either way, keep the 13s and close the wheel gap. That would look great.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

I would love to be able to keep them. I love the look of the wheels and the fact that they seem sorta rare. But I need something wider than 5.5" and I want the t2 brakes. I'm pretty sure I'll need a 15" wheel to fit the big T2 calipers and I want like a 8" wide 0offset wheel and to run fender flares.

MountainScreamer

This is another members car, I can't remember who though. I have a feeling this might be what you are going for, which looks great. I don't have flares on mine but I have 15x8s. Are you swapping bolt patterns or sticking with 4x110? Sorry if you've mentioned this before.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

When I switch to the T2 brakes up front I'll have 5 lug up there. The rears I'll have to have drilled to 5 lug or run a spacer. Spacer sounds easier to me so I'll probably do that haha the white tb at the top of this page is awesome looking. That's more likenwhat in going for. The pic you posted is very nice too, I just want white flares to match.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

too bad you wanna go t2 brakes, those wheels are sweet! and 13's look badass

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

I thought about having them widened, but that really isn't cost effective. I'll have to find a set of equally sweet gold mesh 15x8's with about a 3.5" lip

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

originally I had an 84, and was about to install my ZG flares, but then it was totaled by an idiot woman turning left in front of me in an intersection.

My previous LT1 car-



New one is a Pacific Widebody with a cage... =)

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

You had a V8 in that thing? Pics!!
Pics of this too!

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

I'll try to get a Build thread going of my own so I don't keep blasting his with my pics =)

but here is one pic of when the LT1 first made its way into the car- (ignore some of the rigged things lol)



But hopefully, we can help each other on some of this stuff...


Also, you said you were planning on going 5 lug up front, then using spacers for the rear?
Personally, I have the T2 front hubs/brakes (5lug) and a Chrysler 8.75 rear end (5 lug, from an old Duster). I was going to use a Ford 8.8 till I got this one. The ford rear ends are very strong, cheap, and easy to fit in our cars. Plus, you can get damn near ANY gear ratios you could ever want.

And for reference, on my Black/Red car, the wheels are XXR 002, and they are 15x8 +0et with a 225/45/15 Hankook RS2. That is on Re-Speed coilovers front/rear, had to roll the rear fenders, but fit well other than that. never rubbed at that height. (even in autocross) (350 front/150 rear springs)

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I managed to get a 15x8+20 Rota Rb in the front without having it stick out. Needed a 15mm spacer to get it right because it was contacting the spring perch. "Rolled" the fenders with some pliers with duct tape on the teeth. Still looks like *** so I'll have to get a hold of a proper rolling tool. You could just use Moser axles from RE-Speed to get the 5x114.3 bolt pattern, plus they'll be strong enough to handle your turbo power. Just rebuild the diff and toss the axles in. No need to waste time, money and energy swapping an entire axle assembly in.

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

^truth, the Moser Axles are a great option.
Cost wise, it will be similar either way IF you can do all the welding yourself. Otherwise, the Mosers will be cheaper. That was something I considered a while back.

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

FYI- I posted up a lengthy story of how I got my widebody basically, and the beginning of my project thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8#post10903048

Rotarx7

iTrader: (3)

thats me!!

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

Nice car! What's under the hood?

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

The flares look really good on there. I just ordered a pair 240Z rears so I hope they turn out as well as yours did

Rotarx7

iTrader: (3)

stock 6port, OER sidedraft, full RB exhaust. nothing crazy!

MountainScreamer

^still, VERY nice car, imho.
Sorry I couldn't remember who's car it was! I really like how well your flares fit. The white one up above has some gaps that I don't like.
Sorry to derail the thread, but rotarx7 do you know the backspacing on your rims?? The fit perfectly with the flares.

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

When are you planning on putting the engine in???!!!

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

Me? I still have to wire wheel and POR under the car, then clean up the trans and paint the motor. Then hopefully I can get it in there without fouling the new paint! Haha

Rotarx7

iTrader: (3)

yeah he kinda screwed up by putting the smaller front flare in the rear and the rear in the front..
i think the backspacing is 4.5. I was told the offset was -6 but i havent measured it for myself

Electronblue

iTrader: (5)

I'm doing similar- I already have my engine painted, but still need to brush the underbody and spray it, and paint the transmission... About how much body filler did you need to use by the time you were done in the bay? I have a bit at the house from other projects, just trying to gauge out how many more supplies I'm gonna need.

And I'm trying to decide if the FC crossmember swap will be worth my time. (if I can make it fit under the LT1!)

Too bad you dont live closer- would be good motivation to see another one in person! haha.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

I probably used a quart of filler. Keep in mind, though, that I've never really done body work so for the whole passanger side and most of the firewall I was putting it on too thick and sanding most of it all back off... This is also not counting the 2 times that i put on filler, didnt like it, and wire wheeled it all back off. You should also get some glazing putty. I went to napa and got some dolphin glaze, wish I would of sooner! Its really really runny and self leveling. After you put on the filler, and you have little tiny air bubble pockets or tiny low spots, Dolphin glaze is the way to go. Dont get a glazing putty that you dont mix hardener in, you wont like it at all.

Just take your time and it will come out fine, and remember... Its only an engine bay. Most of the time the hood will be closed and you wont see it anyway. When the hood is open, people arent going to be sitting in the bay with their face a few inches away from it looking for imperfections like you will be when doing the work. Try to keep them minimal, but dont worry about every little thing. Especially in spots that are going to be hard to see when the engine is in there, and with a big ol V8 things will be hidden better.

I wish we did live closer, its always nice to help out another member. Any more questions just ask!