Will replacing the oil press. sending unit keep engine from starting?
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Will replacing the oil press. sending unit keep engine from starting?
Okay, I've done my searching (as usual, go me, gimme a freakin' cookie) but no answers. Now, I ask this question because I've encountered vehicles that if you were to remove the stock oil pressure unit, the engine will not start. So, if I were to install an Autometer oil pressure gauge and replacing the stock sending unit with the Autometer one, would I have to worry about the engine not being able to start? (13B motor) Or, no worries, I can go ahead with the swap?
#3
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Leave the stock one in and then add an aftermarket one using one of the aftermarket oil pedistals that way you can add oil temp at the same time.
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalo...58701b333fdddb
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalo...58701b333fdddb
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You can use the stock sender as an adaptor. Just cut off the fitting and drill and tap it for the threads on your new sender. Reason you do this is because the stock unit is BSP and your new one will be NPT, you *can* force it in, but it's more likely to leak that way.
Another option, is take out the banjo bolt for the oil cooler and tap it for the new sender. I'd say if it's junk, loose the stock one and use it's hole instead of adding another place for a possible leak. Also, saves you a few bucks over buying the adaptor.
Another option, is take out the banjo bolt for the oil cooler and tap it for the new sender. I'd say if it's junk, loose the stock one and use it's hole instead of adding another place for a possible leak. Also, saves you a few bucks over buying the adaptor.
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yea in my automotive class i had to do a oil pressure test and we had to take it out and replace it and the teacher at the end told me to start the car and see if it still started, it did but i didnt know why it wouldnt. if it didnt start that means i failed the test, but i could not figure out why.
OH i did this today, yeah me now tomorrow i gotta flush radiators........easy
OH i did this today, yeah me now tomorrow i gotta flush radiators........easy
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#8
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1st gens do not have a low oil pressure engine kill system.
The oil pressure sending unit has one wire that leads directly to the oil pressure gauge in the cluster.Its not connected to the main engine harness or the ECU in any way..............
The oil pressure sending unit has one wire that leads directly to the oil pressure gauge in the cluster.Its not connected to the main engine harness or the ECU in any way..............
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
1st gens do not have a low oil pressure engine kill system.
The oil pressure sending unit has one wire that leads directly to the oil pressure gauge in the cluster.Its not connected to the main engine harness or the ECU in any way..............
The oil pressure sending unit has one wire that leads directly to the oil pressure gauge in the cluster.Its not connected to the main engine harness or the ECU in any way..............
these are the things i come here to learn
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Originally Posted by mr_ouija
You can use the stock sender as an adaptor. Just cut off the fitting and drill and tap it for the threads on your new sender. Reason you do this is because the stock unit is BSP and your new one will be NPT, you *can* force it in, but it's more likely to leak that way.
Another option, is take out the banjo bolt for the oil cooler and tap it for the new sender. I'd say if it's junk, loose the stock one and use it's hole instead of adding another place for a possible leak. Also, saves you a few bucks over buying the adaptor.
Another option, is take out the banjo bolt for the oil cooler and tap it for the new sender. I'd say if it's junk, loose the stock one and use it's hole instead of adding another place for a possible leak. Also, saves you a few bucks over buying the adaptor.
But, couldn't I just go to a Home Depot and get one of their plumbing fittings to match up?
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Alright, I presonally used (IIRC) 1/8 NPT male threaded connector to hook up my mechanical oil pressure guage to the block. The thing is, it isn't exactly the right threads. I've seen someone post on here before, the threading is something I havent heard of before, like 1/8 BPT, someone please correct me. You can get NOT to work, but it took some forcing, and I believe it leaks a little, but it's still a fairly common way to do this. Chop up the old oil pressure sending unit, it is by far the better way to do it.
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Originally Posted by 85 FB
If I'm understanding this right, the sender, including the adapters that come with it, won't match up with the threads inside the block so it is recommended to just tap and die into the old sender after I cut the old sender off. Right?
But, couldn't I just go to a Home Depot and get one of their plumbing fittings to match up?
But, couldn't I just go to a Home Depot and get one of their plumbing fittings to match up?
As far as the cutting, drilling and tapping, there's a thread in the archive with pics.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/oil-oil-pressure-sender-adapter-solution-530083/
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After looking at that thread, someone mentioned using Racing Beat's adapter to use both Oil Press. and Temp. I am looking to do Temp and Press. for the oil, would that I mean I wouldn't have to worry about modding up the stock sender because I can just buy that adapter and it'll have the (normal) thread sizes?
What I'm getting at is, buying this adapter (from ReSpeed or Racing Beat, it looks like the block is the better way to go than RS's pedestal one), does that mean I can get rid of the stock sender first?
What I'm getting at is, buying this adapter (from ReSpeed or Racing Beat, it looks like the block is the better way to go than RS's pedestal one), does that mean I can get rid of the stock sender first?
Last edited by 85 FB; 05-10-06 at 06:22 PM.
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Well, I've done some more searching and came up with these results:
For those wanting to use the block with dual outlets, you can get a magnetic drain plug from here:
http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/ta...hread_bspt.htm
Cost is $7.45 including shipping.
For those of you who want to use just the stock hole for one gauge, Pegasus has this fitting to convert to female 1/8 NPT. Part is $8.99 plus s/h.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Pro...asp?RecId=3142
There is another company I'm going to call to see if they deal with BSPT (they offer 1/8) but they're not open yet. So, until I find out if they do, I figured this would help any that are considering it.
For those wanting to use the block with dual outlets, you can get a magnetic drain plug from here:
http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/ta...hread_bspt.htm
Cost is $7.45 including shipping.
For those of you who want to use just the stock hole for one gauge, Pegasus has this fitting to convert to female 1/8 NPT. Part is $8.99 plus s/h.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Pro...asp?RecId=3142
There is another company I'm going to call to see if they deal with BSPT (they offer 1/8) but they're not open yet. So, until I find out if they do, I figured this would help any that are considering it.
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Ok, is the stock oil pressure gauge particularly innaccurate? Is there a real reason to replace it with an aftermarket gauge (other than to have a calibrated gauge)?
ie. If I'm driving along, and my oil pressure shows good on the stock gauge, am I good?
(wasn't even aware the car had an OP gauge... but I've only looked at the dash twice so far... lol....)
ie. If I'm driving along, and my oil pressure shows good on the stock gauge, am I good?
(wasn't even aware the car had an OP gauge... but I've only looked at the dash twice so far... lol....)
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