defakto

Just recently had a slew of problems pop up.

1.) parking brake light wouldn't disengage, but did not show signs of the brake sticking when trying to move the car(no pop as it broke free and no resistance when moving).

2.) At high way speeds after 5-10 minutes I get a deep rumble and shake from the drive train, *feels* like it's from the rear end.

My question is this:

Is it possible that the E-brake is still partially engaged and is warping the rotor at high speeds leading to the rumble or should I be looking somewhere else for the rumble issue after getting the brake fixed?

Thanks

djessence

1. Check brake fluid level
2. Check u-joints

80's old school

iTrader: (7)

I had a rumble at highway speeds and when slowing down. I checked driveshaft and it is OK. Ended up changing the rear transmission mount (even though it looked fine) and that took care of ALL rumble/vibrations!!

defakto

Fluid level is good. Visual on u joint looks ok but didn't get hands on with it.

Another detail I forgot to mention, After sitting for a few minutes then getting back on the highway it comes back after several minutes of driving. It's not a constant virbration and it continues even when the clutch is pushed in and the transmission is in neutral.

Retro Racer

Two things that can cause a vibration rumble after 5-10 minutes at highway speed are:

The crush washer on the differential pinion shaft is worn/over crushed (common problem) and as the oil heats up and becomes thinner at highway speeds the gear mesh become sloppy which can make a grating sound and vibration, especially on light throttle.

The other less likely is a worn/sagging left engine mount. What can happen here is the rubber has hardened somewhat with age, heats up on a longer run and sags even more whch in turn allows the engine mount cups to contact transferring NVH throughout the whole car.

Also agree with a worn gear box mount too.

defakto

*Final post*

Sorry to resurrect the dead, but I felt the update should be here for others just in case.

Recently spent some time inventorying and checking parts I've pulled off the car. I believe the problem was coming from a blocked off tube come from the airpump for the emissions systems, put on by the previous owner.

The problem went away immediately after the removal of the rat's nest and other equipment. which leads me to believe the blocked tube caused the problems by building up more pressure than the pump was capable of venting.


*edit*

If you want to lock and archive this thread, now would probably be a good time.