I would bring a few kits. There will be alot of first gen'rs out there. I guarantee you'll sell out if it works.

 

the steering arm looks kind of low to me. does the clearance concern anyone else? or will that not be a problem?

 

LoL! the steering arm is part of the hub ... it moves with the suspension !

 

Unless you've got a 4x4 RX-7, you don't have to worry about it. Speed bumps will be fine as long as both wheels go over at the same time, because the rack is pretty much in line with the wheels. Only thing that it lowers is your clearance when going over things like rocks in the middle of the road, etc... Don't worry about the clearance.

 

I'm curious about the clearance of the tie rod with the bracket when the suspension is fully compressed. I hope this pic clearifies my curiosity.



The green line being the tie-rod position at rest and the blue line representing the tie-rod when the suspension is compressed.

 

I pretty sure that the suspension would hit the stops before the tie-rods would smack the bracket..... that looks like about 4" or so.

 

this is what i am worried about.. i donot always go over speed bumps straight.. depends on how steep they are . i know i for one worrie about my presilencers hitting..

 

What the hell are you doing with your car that the tie rod is going that high? Also the pivot point is more on the end (outsides) of the rack and no it wont hit.

 

Oh ya my car is extremely low and the lowest part on my car is still the wastegate.

 

J. Oliver:
Question; Where does the rack sit in relation to the oil pan? Is it below it completely, slightly in front of? It looks to be pretty close to the OEM location.

I'm not so concerned about the tie rod to suspension ratio, but more of the guy who hits a dip in the road, a little to fast, and might hit the rack... I've seen folks hole oil pans like this... stupid I know, but possible. If that happens, you just loose all your oil, but if you damage or rip out the rack.. no steering! Not be a doubter, just asking you to consider the question. It doesn't really seem to be an issue from the pics, but I'd like your input.


BTW, We've moved the SevenStock date to September 20, 21

HOPE TO SEE A LOT OF 1ST GEN LOVE THIS YEAR!

Thanks...

-Bern
Head SevenStock Guy

 

Oh, BTW do you know what the ratio is on the rack? how many turns lock to lock???


Thanks,
-Zach

 

Zyounker it is a SWEET 3.3 turns exactly lock2lock

Berns if the senario you mentioned about bottoming out in a dip in the road happens it will hit the rack but for gods sake if you bottom out that hard you have more to worry about than steering. Its not that low anyway. it will sit 1/2 inch lower than the stock crossmember. I just went out to the car and the suspension will have to completely bottom out, then crush the bump stops, then blow both front tires then it will STILL be 1/4inch from the ground. So no, I retract my earlier statement and I will say it cant hit the rack no matter how hard you are whoop dee dooing.

 

hell yeah..

 

3.3 turns? dear god thats sweet.

 

whats stock lock to lock? BTW i just read this ohhh gawd its good i've nutted 3 times allready!!!

 

3.7 lock to lock stock

 

so its really only going to eliminate .4 lock to lock? so is that a huge advantage doesn't seem so. 1/5 of a turn less on each side. not criticising just trying to figure out if the advantages are wirth the cost.

 

The huge advantage of R&P over our crappy RB will be steering that is not vague and that lacks the dead spot in the center, where the car pretty much tracks where it feels like. Left, Right, Straight..... All without the wheel moving. R&P is much more precise and yields better feedback. I am interested in this too, if it is CSP legal for autox.

Lock to lock just shows that it is a little tighter ratio. ie, how quick the wheels turn in vs. the same degree of turning the steering wheel.

 

What would you consider to be best lock to lock? 3.3 is even faster than the power steering equipped FB's (3.4). I remember driving my -se back in the day and I thought it was pretty good except for that dead float area that was always there with the RB box.

 

We will be finishing testing on Monday guys and do more real life driving instead of just high speed, tire smokin drifting once the alignment shop takes care of the final setting Monday morning.
All I have to say is HOLY F%#kin WHOHA!!!!!!!!!
Look out cause you're all about to become much,much,much better drivers.

 

Man I'm serious I want a unit with an aluminum bracket now, email me at aussiesmg@yahoo.com with a price and I'll send you the cash now.

Steve

 

I have decided not to build them in aluminum right now more testing will have to be done and it will also have to be made different for your application. If you can just wait a little while until the steel one is exactly the way it needs 2be then I will start manufacturing them using a method consisting of thin sheet aluminum, carbonfibre center, then another sheet of aluminum. This will be the sandwhich method and will be VERY strong and extremely light but VERY $expensive$, like add another $200-250 to the kit.
Perfect for those die hard wealthy racers who want to win at any cost.

 

but you'll still offer the steel for us poor folk right???

 

Thanks for the clarification J.O. just let me know when and where!!

-Bern

 

Well, there is also the powersteering VW rack.. we could just loop the hydralic lines on it.. I wonder if it will work and what it's ratio is


BTW my new evo has 2 turns lock to lock, and i have to say i LOVE the feel of the short ratio in the r&p.