WHO WANTS 1ST GEN rAcK @ pInIoN STEERING?
#254
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Location: Kamloops BC Canada
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Unless you've got a 4x4 RX-7, you don't have to worry about it. Speed bumps will be fine as long as both wheels go over at the same time, because the rack is pretty much in line with the wheels. Only thing that it lowers is your clearance when going over things like rocks in the middle of the road, etc... Don't worry about the clearance.
#255
I read your email
I'm curious about the clearance of the tie rod with the bracket when the suspension is fully compressed. I hope this pic clearifies my curiosity.
The green line being the tie-rod position at rest and the blue line representing the tie-rod when the suspension is compressed.
The green line being the tie-rod position at rest and the blue line representing the tie-rod when the suspension is compressed.
#257
smog nazi destroyer
Originally posted by Keaponlaffen
Speed bumps will be fine as long as both wheels go over at the same time, because the rack is pretty much in line with the wheels.
Speed bumps will be fine as long as both wheels go over at the same time, because the rack is pretty much in line with the wheels.
#258
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Location: Mosport Raceway,Bowmanville,Ont.
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What the hell are you doing with your car that the tie rod is going that high? Also the pivot point is more on the end (outsides) of the rack and no it wont hit.
#260
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J. Oliver:
Question; Where does the rack sit in relation to the oil pan? Is it below it completely, slightly in front of? It looks to be pretty close to the OEM location.
I'm not so concerned about the tie rod to suspension ratio, but more of the guy who hits a dip in the road, a little to fast, and might hit the rack... I've seen folks hole oil pans like this... stupid I know, but possible. If that happens, you just loose all your oil, but if you damage or rip out the rack.. no steering! Not be a doubter, just asking you to consider the question. It doesn't really seem to be an issue from the pics, but I'd like your input.
BTW, We've moved the SevenStock date to September 20, 21
HOPE TO SEE A LOT OF 1ST GEN LOVE THIS YEAR!
Thanks...
-Bern
Head SevenStock Guy
Question; Where does the rack sit in relation to the oil pan? Is it below it completely, slightly in front of? It looks to be pretty close to the OEM location.
I'm not so concerned about the tie rod to suspension ratio, but more of the guy who hits a dip in the road, a little to fast, and might hit the rack... I've seen folks hole oil pans like this... stupid I know, but possible. If that happens, you just loose all your oil, but if you damage or rip out the rack.. no steering! Not be a doubter, just asking you to consider the question. It doesn't really seem to be an issue from the pics, but I'd like your input.
BTW, We've moved the SevenStock date to September 20, 21
HOPE TO SEE A LOT OF 1ST GEN LOVE THIS YEAR!
Thanks...
-Bern
Head SevenStock Guy
#262
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Zyounker it is a SWEET 3.3 turns exactly lock2lock
Berns if the senario you mentioned about bottoming out in a dip in the road happens it will hit the rack but for gods sake if you bottom out that hard you have more to worry about than steering. Its not that low anyway. it will sit 1/2 inch lower than the stock crossmember. I just went out to the car and the suspension will have to completely bottom out, then crush the bump stops, then blow both front tires then it will STILL be 1/4inch from the ground. So no, I retract my earlier statement and I will say it cant hit the rack no matter how hard you are whoop dee dooing.
Berns if the senario you mentioned about bottoming out in a dip in the road happens it will hit the rack but for gods sake if you bottom out that hard you have more to worry about than steering. Its not that low anyway. it will sit 1/2 inch lower than the stock crossmember. I just went out to the car and the suspension will have to completely bottom out, then crush the bump stops, then blow both front tires then it will STILL be 1/4inch from the ground. So no, I retract my earlier statement and I will say it cant hit the rack no matter how hard you are whoop dee dooing.
#268
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
The huge advantage of R&P over our crappy RB will be steering that is not vague and that lacks the dead spot in the center, where the car pretty much tracks where it feels like. Left, Right, Straight..... All without the wheel moving. R&P is much more precise and yields better feedback. I am interested in this too, if it is CSP legal for autox.
Lock to lock just shows that it is a little tighter ratio. ie, how quick the wheels turn in vs. the same degree of turning the steering wheel.
Lock to lock just shows that it is a little tighter ratio. ie, how quick the wheels turn in vs. the same degree of turning the steering wheel.
#269
Originally posted by Hyper4mance2k
so its really only going to eliminate .4 lock to lock? so is that a huge advantage doesn't seem so. 1/5 of a turn less on each side. not criticising just trying to figure out if the advantages are wirth the cost.
so its really only going to eliminate .4 lock to lock? so is that a huge advantage doesn't seem so. 1/5 of a turn less on each side. not criticising just trying to figure out if the advantages are wirth the cost.
#270
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We will be finishing testing on Monday guys and do more real life driving instead of just high speed, tire smokin drifting once the alignment shop takes care of the final setting Monday morning.
All I have to say is HOLY F%#kin WHOHA!!!!!!!!!
Look out cause you're all about to become much,much,much better drivers.
All I have to say is HOLY F%#kin WHOHA!!!!!!!!!
Look out cause you're all about to become much,much,much better drivers.
#271
Thunder from downunder
iTrader: (1)
J OLIVER
Man I'm serious I want a unit with an aluminum bracket now, email me at aussiesmg@yahoo.com with a price and I'll send you the cash now.
Steve
Steve
#272
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I have decided not to build them in aluminum right now more testing will have to be done and it will also have to be made different for your application. If you can just wait a little while until the steel one is exactly the way it needs 2be then I will start manufacturing them using a method consisting of thin sheet aluminum, carbonfibre center, then another sheet of aluminum. This will be the sandwhich method and will be VERY strong and extremely light but VERY $expensive$, like add another $200-250 to the kit.
Perfect for those die hard wealthy racers who want to win at any cost.
Perfect for those die hard wealthy racers who want to win at any cost.
#273
The Shadetree Project
iTrader: (40)
Originally posted by J Oliver
I have decided not to build them in aluminum right now more testing will have to be done and it will also have to be made different for your application. If you can just wait a little while until the steel one is exactly the way it needs 2be then I will start manufacturing them using a method consisting of thin sheet aluminum, carbonfibre center, then another sheet of aluminum. This will be the sandwhich method and will be VERY strong and extremely light but VERY $expensive$, like add another $200-250 to the kit.
Perfect for those die hard wealthy racers who want to win at any cost.
I have decided not to build them in aluminum right now more testing will have to be done and it will also have to be made different for your application. If you can just wait a little while until the steel one is exactly the way it needs 2be then I will start manufacturing them using a method consisting of thin sheet aluminum, carbonfibre center, then another sheet of aluminum. This will be the sandwhich method and will be VERY strong and extremely light but VERY $expensive$, like add another $200-250 to the kit.
Perfect for those die hard wealthy racers who want to win at any cost.
#275
Well, there is also the powersteering VW rack.. we could just loop the hydralic lines on it.. I wonder if it will work and what it's ratio is
BTW my new evo has 2 turns lock to lock, and i have to say i LOVE the feel of the short ratio in the r&p.
BTW my new evo has 2 turns lock to lock, and i have to say i LOVE the feel of the short ratio in the r&p.