ncmn

greetings,

with regards to changing brake pads, i'm hoping someone here can tell me where i went wrong.

the pads went on and off w/o any problem but as expected the caliper would not go on. so i followed this method. i opened up the master cylinder. i squeezed the piston so it would fit over. i put everything back. i closed the cylinder. result: brake pedal goes to the floor.

there are no leaks (unless i created one where i can't see) so i guess i introduced air into the system? if this is the problem, i'm thinking i've got to bleed the line? what else might it be?

sidebar: was this a good way to do it? i know the manuals say to attach tube into brake fliud filled jar but this seemed a couple steps easier. it worked on my cousin's honda (it was taught to him by a mechanic) so i figured i would go with a professional approved method.

sidebar2: did anyone else have problem getting the drum back on after changing shoes? seems like the top will pass but the bottom half of drum hits the shoes.

i appreciate the insight. i'm learning as i go.

norman ng

Felix Wankel

You have to pump the pedal to bring the pad in contact with the rotor.

I can't remember if our brakes are self adjusting or not on the rear. Check and see if there is a ''star wheel'' adjuster on the backplate.

My car is parked in a garage 20 miles from here. I can't go check and see

Montrealer

You definately have to bleed the brakes if the pedal goes to the floor. by opening up the master cylinder you you mean taking the cap off?


to make the drums fit, that bar that goes across from one of the shoes to the other must be too long, you just have to make it shorter by turning the little wheel with the teeth on it(on the little bar in question).

MarkPerez

You need to make sure that each shoe is straight on
the pin clips,make sure the e brake is off too,use both
hands,one on each shoe and push together, makeing
sure nothing is binding or hung up,to bleed,only one
side has the bleeder,,open it,,and use a piece of hose
(any) on the bleeder,and a jar with 1/4 full of brake fluid.
you know what i'm talking about, right?,, and bleed out
the air.. you can always tear it back down, then rebuild
it again, too..

Rotor13B

You have to make sure you have the right shoe in the right position, i.e one is slightly larger than the other. If you get the drum on at all it will drag considerably hard and start smoking....lol

Barwick

if you opened up the master cylinder, I think it's POSSIBLE that you got air in the lines.. but here's the deal..

When doing disc brakes, you have to make the piston recess back into the caliper somehow. They make special tools to do it for some brakes, or easier is to take the old brake pads (or a disc of metal or something, just to have something to press against) and take a c-clamp and put one side on the back of the caliper, the other side on the little piece of metal (or your old brake pad) and tighten it until it's sufficiently recessed back into the caliper. Do it to the other one, and you're done, don' t have to open up the system.

Although bleeding & filling the brakes is always a good thing to do.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Next time use the tool that spreads the caliper pistons and you won't have this problem. Even flea markets like Trader's Village have 'em now, they're so common...

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

It's definitly air in the system. When you drain the fluid, you might want to keep an old bucket around, because you can re-use the fluid - if it's any good. I ended up doing this about five times on the Jeep before the brakes started working. Man, those brakes were soo bad! The Rx-7's are way better, even though I have drums in the rear.

error402

q: does ncmn need to bleed his system?

*shakes the all knowing eight ball*

a: yes

Felix Wankel

How the hell do you get air in the lines with the master cylinder's reservoir cap off, and pushing the pistons back in? Thats forcing fluid and any air OUT of the reservoir, not back in!

Barwick

if it only went to the floor once, that's NORMAL when you retract the calipers. If it keeps going to the floor then probably air.

ncmn

from all comments, i am pretty sure i did what Barwick describes expect with the master cylinder's cap opened. i am beginning to think i squished the piston in too much, slid the caliper over the pads, then the piston expanded again, thus drawing in air back at the master.

since the pads are already on, i'm going to work on putting the drum assembly all back (those shoes are a bitch to squeeze together!) then bleed each line properly. i'm hopeful this is a good course of action. just re-instated my insurance. i'm looking forward to hitting the road next week.

i will update as things move along. much appreciation to many voices.

norman ng

ncmn

sorry needed to add a comment here.

Q? in my 84 shop manual, adjustment of the rear drum brakes is done through two holes into which you need to insert two screwdriver and play around.

but in haynes, it instructs to turn a nut and pin at the bottom of the back of the rear disk.

why the difference? by the way i do not have that nut/pin set up (the shop system describes me). what is haynes describing?

thanks.

MarkPerez

the difference is one is a drum, and the other is a disk.

peejay

How many times did you pump the pedal?

It's normal to have no brake pedal for the first several pumps. As mentioned above, you have to pump the brakes up to get the caliper pistons back in contact with the pads since you probably pushed them in further than necessary.

Blitz0309

Not to take away from your troubles, but i have a small problem with my front left brake.... the damn thing squeaks like there is no tomorrow. I've played with the shims, cleaned it, kick the hell out of it, but after a few miles it starts up again..... the caliper isn't sized or anything... any ideas?

Rotor13B

Did you put that blue crap on the back of the pads before you installed them? That usually works for me.

(Why does the sunshine? Why is the sky blue? How does a posi-trac on a plymouth work? Why, it just does...) lol excerpt from the movie Joe Dirt.

peejay

Brake squeal isn't a problem, it just means the brakes are working. I'd be more worried if they didn't squeal...

Blitz0309

Yeah, but this is really bad... maybe screaming is a better word.