orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Once the weight of the car is down on the spring it won't move much and should center itself.

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I still can't imagine it won't/doesn't move when all assembled and driving around. Just wanted to be sure I wasn't overlooking anything.

che'srx-7

iTrader: (5)

this is my gsl se with the GC CO kit, xxr 501 15x8 +15offset



i am about to do the same set up with my other gsl-se

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

That's a nice looking se u got there!!! Cuidalo!!

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Ok. Is there any reason/benefit to maybe welding a bead on top of the collar to keep the tube centered? Or is it a complete non-issue?

Green Lantern

iTrader: (12)

I stuffed some adhesive backed rubber strips in between the stube and collar, but I doubt it was necessary
Anyone running front bumpstops? what are you using?

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I put my bumpstops back on after a year of not using them, just in case.

Sevens4me, i have had mine move on me, but they rotated with the turning of the steering wheels. With the RE-Speed camber plates the bearings and washers on the upper perch don't make contact with the bearing in the camber plate, so there is friction when turning the wheel. Also causes a spring binding issue. I would suggest having a conical piece made on a lathe to fix that issue. I have some but haven't put them on yet. You could try putting a bead down, but their fore/aft/side movement is minimal. The weight does keep them centered.

Kentetsu

Chris,

The only time I experienced turning resistance with the camber plates was when the bolts (loosened/tightened when adjusting camber) began backing out of the camber plates. When tightening them down after adjustment, the bolt would rotate just a little bit. After several adjustments, they were backed out enough to begin carving grooves into the aluminum spring "cap".

I have now applied locktite to these bolts, and highly recommend that this be done in all cases.



.

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Where are you meaning to have this conical piece installed?

gojo

I bought a coil over kit from ReSpeed over a month ago, and I still haven't got it.

I have called and e-mailed several times with no response.

Green Lantern

iTrader: (12)

^^ have you pm'd Sam (dj55b) and Re-speed.com

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone elaborate on this "conical piece" spoken of?

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Well only took all winter to actually get someone to do the welding...Hope it was worth the last six week wait where they were done.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I've had this problem too. When I pulled them apart last fall I reapplied red loctite, but that was applied when they were built by Billy and did not solve the issue. That is actually a whole other problem with the plates. Simply put the two surfaces that are supposed to mate and provide smooth, resistance free rotation do not in fact sit against each other. The thrust bearings will sit against the bottom of the camber plate if you have them but not against the bearing inside the camber plate. It will work just fine with the stock strut tops, but I wanted something with a little more thought put into it. So I talked to Sam about it and he machined a lil somethin somethin to shut me up.

MS Paint FTMFW!!



The red lines are the contact surfaces of the thrust beaing on the RE-Speed upper spring perch and the bearing inside the RE-Speed camber plates. However the one inside the camber plate does not protrude. It is in fact recessed so even though the bearing can rotate freely with the damper shaft, it does not make contact with the thrust bearing. As well, at least with my setup the thrust bearing only just meets the top of the upper perches recess so once the weight is on the car it will only be making light contact with the bearings rollers. It didn't make any sense to me that the two freely rotating surfaces were not making contact, at least not enough to satisfy me. The grey "conical" piece in between in my drawing is the gist of what I had Sam make for me. Granted I only just installed them and have not yet driven the car. Once I actually get some miles on them I'll know if it was all in my head or an actual sound theory proven by real world results.

I have a similar personal issue with the steering kit. The rear arms being bent and attached to the fronts as they are force the front control arms to twist rearward, causing binding on the bushings in both arms. Without the sway bar attached it still requires some effort to move them. All components in a suspension to provide maximum performance and feedback are supposed to be able to move freely and smoothly. Where there's any chance of binding you lose the performance edge you initially paid for on top of putting unnecessary stress on the mounting hardware and the bushings. The only reason I haven't gone to spherical bushings is because I'm not sure if they would allow the front control arm to twist even farther than it already does, and they are a little pricey for something that may or may not make me happy.

Edit: Just realized how small the picture shows up. If your that interested i suggest you save it, open it in MS paint and zoom in. Or get a bigass monitor.

sevens4me

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply...I'm really curious to find out how you feel about them after driving a bit. I'm FINALLY getting close to installing mine, and I want to do everything right the first time. I have to travel an hour to have a place to work on my car...