JEC-31

Here's a pic of the probably-stock lug-stud locks on my 82 GSL project heap. The time is near to remove a wheel or two...
Do I absolutely need the Special Tool that I don't have, or can I just use an Allen wrench or something?

JEC-31

Damn computer.

the_real_bill

i got mine off by using a socket that is slightly smaller than the wheel nut.
Pound on the socket over the nut, twist off....

nosajwrx-7

That looks like it takes a torques bit in the head of the stud, but has a regular lug-nut holding the wheel on. Have you tried taking the lug-nuts off with a regular socket?

JEC-31

No, because the point of anti-theft wheel locks is to keep thieves armed with ordinary sockets off your wheels.
The pic is pretty bad, up close it's not a torx it's allen-shaped. I have a tiny envelope the Special Tool came in (from a different parts car which had no such locks...), it shows a picture of the tool looking like a wacky toilet-paper-dispenser key.

nosajwrx-7

Are you looking to save the wheels?

JEC-31

Of course! Those things are sooooo rare you know! LOL

I'm actually only saving two of them, because the other two are pretty bad and there's two good ones worth saving on the soon-to-be-scrapped parts car.
Regardless, there's got to be an easy way to just take them off. Don't make me get out the torch, the sawzall, and the dynamite.

nosajwrx-7

I was going to suggest the hot wrench!

lotsacars

The outside of those lug nuts looks hexagonal. Are you sure a socket won't fit on those? The center does look goofy, but if the outside isn't hexagonal it isn't far from it. Ibet you could find a socket that works. The fact that you've got two on one wheel is a bit peculiar; usually there's only one security nut/wheel.

Otherwise just find a socket that's a wee bit smaller, wack it on there good and tight, spin 'er off, and chuck the whole assembly.

Manntis

Find an allen-head socket that's the right size. Should be no more than $5 at a hardware store.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

you can buy a allen key with a socket end. pound that mother into the wheel stud then stick your breaker bar into the socket end. slide a 4' long lead pipe over the breaker bar and unthread the stud and wheel lock as one.

or you gotta weld a nut onto the wheel lock and crank it off. OUCH!

-bp-

joelwahid

cant you just use a bolt extractor?

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Buy a socket that is one size too small, it may end up being SAE, and drive it onto the nut with a hammer. If the studs have been on the drum or rotor for any time, they are surely rusted on and no allen wrench in the socket hole will get them out before you destroy the stud itself. Hit the nut and exposed threads with WD-40 (...or whatever the peanut gallery is now going to suggest now that I've named WD-40......), the previous night before you hammer on the disposable socket. Make sure it's a 1/2" drive. Shouldn't be a problem. '79+'80rx7 had a similar problem that was remedied in similar fashion....

zookeeper

...maybe a 20mm HEI?

rich367

That looks like the setup I had on my gsl. If it is then the allen wrench is used to insert and remove the stud from the rotor. The nut is just attached after to hold the rim. Use an impact gun and if the nut is rusted on it will remove the stud with it. Kind of hard to tell from the picture if it is the same though.

Manntis

All this talk of hammers and torches.....

the_real_bill

*sigh* Read the 3rd post!!!


Trust me! it will work without ruining your wheels.
It is VERY easy!!!

Torches, allen wrenches.... yeesh! Don't even bother with that! (no offence anyone)

Just use a socket that is a bit smaller and whack it on!
Then twist off..... it's that simple!

mar3

iTrader: (8)

If the studs are rusted, the allen wrench will not work. You'd need the handle to be at least a foot and a half long to get the 100+ lbs. force necessary to unscrew it. Problem is, by then the hole or the allen wrench will be rounded....bring on the hammers!!

Manntis

power bars work wonders. It can be as simple as slipping a 2 foot long pipe around the socket driver handle (don't use a rachet for breaking torque!) and slowly applying pressure. If it's badly rusted, spray break-free into the threads first.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Agreed, but you're better off using the socket because the allen wrench or the hole is going to round out under that kind of pressure. The allen wrench was just fine for installing the stud when new and in fresh threads. It only had to go in just past finger tight with some compound. Now that the stud is rusted in place, the allen wrench will not work. Break out mjolnir!!

Manntis

Thing is, I didn't see where he said it was rusted in place...

12aPwr

i say bring on the blue wrench

nimrodTT

Those are Mazdacomp thread-in studs with what looks to be REGULAR lugnuts. If the studs were installed properly, they are locktited in place and shouldn't move. Just zip the nut off with whatever you got.

This really isn't even a postworthy subject because you said yourself you didn't even try to remove it with an ordinary socket yet - which should take it off no problem.

nosajwrx-7

Have you even tryed just taking it off like you would normally do a lug-nut? I have seen where you said it was rusted stuck, or rounded off, or anything like that. I also haven't read where you have tried taking it off.

JEC-31

Thank you (and Manntis) for your voices of sanity.
1) No evidence of rust, but they do look like they have been attatched for years.
2) I have not tried yet.
3) It's not an emergency.
I've been busy on other projects, this is just a curiousity post because I've never played with these locks before.
Now I have to actually stop scavenging the parts heap and mess with these locks to end this "debate" once and for all.
Look for an update here around this time tomorrow, my friends.