Whats wrong with my 84 GSL-SE please help
#1
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Whats wrong with my 84 GSL-SE please help
Im having a problem with my 7. The rpm goes all the way down to 0 but it doens come off it goes up again and comes down. I raised the accelaration up to 1000rpm and sometimes goes down then back to 1. When im running lets say like in 3rd(for example) the car stops accelaratin but im pushing the gas pedal then comes back to normal and keeps doing it.
have ne of you had this problem or know what it could be?
have ne of you had this problem or know what it could be?
#6
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sounds like surging...check this site...
http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html
you probably have Section 2 Problem # 4 and can be resolved using Problem # 5's instructions...
TPS - Throttle Sensor
good luck
http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html
you probably have Section 2 Problem # 4 and can be resolved using Problem # 5's instructions...
TPS - Throttle Sensor
good luck
#7
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Might also try getting under the hood and moving your electrical harness at the back of the waterpump which has the leads that go to the fuel injectors. Over time, the plastic harnesses that connect to the sides of the fuel injectors will get hard or develop an intermittent connection. Moving the harness around will cause the engine to seem to run on only one rotor, which is a very lumpy condition and causes the car to have very poor acceleration at any engine speed (since one rotor is just along for the ride).
If your engine bobbles when you move the fuel injector harness, remove the EGI dynamic chamber and upper intake plenum and you can get to the fuel rail and injectors - you only need to remove the black plastic connectors - do not remove the injectors or you may need to then replace the injector seals. Replacement injector harness and connectors are available from Borg-Warner at BAP, Autozone, PEP Boys, and many other automotive stores.
Other than that, you can check your Airflow Meter to be sure that it's working correctly by removing the air filter from the airbox, and inserting a screwdriver or wooden rod down the intake just far enough to push against the 'door' - at normal engine idle (warmed up), this will cause the engine to bog down when you press on the 'door' - if not, your AFM may be going out.
If not THAT - maybe clogged cats? Check under the car at night after it's been doing what you described and see if the catalytic converter(s) are glowing red hot - another indication would be your "Exhaust System Overheat" idiot light coming on at the dashboard.
Any or all of these things could lead to poor acceleration under load. Take a look and report back and we'll see what else we can come up with. HTH,
If your engine bobbles when you move the fuel injector harness, remove the EGI dynamic chamber and upper intake plenum and you can get to the fuel rail and injectors - you only need to remove the black plastic connectors - do not remove the injectors or you may need to then replace the injector seals. Replacement injector harness and connectors are available from Borg-Warner at BAP, Autozone, PEP Boys, and many other automotive stores.
Other than that, you can check your Airflow Meter to be sure that it's working correctly by removing the air filter from the airbox, and inserting a screwdriver or wooden rod down the intake just far enough to push against the 'door' - at normal engine idle (warmed up), this will cause the engine to bog down when you press on the 'door' - if not, your AFM may be going out.
If not THAT - maybe clogged cats? Check under the car at night after it's been doing what you described and see if the catalytic converter(s) are glowing red hot - another indication would be your "Exhaust System Overheat" idiot light coming on at the dashboard.
Any or all of these things could lead to poor acceleration under load. Take a look and report back and we'll see what else we can come up with. HTH,
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NickNac113
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