83GSL Revival

What is the order for bleeding the brakes? On my other car it's passenger side rear, driver side front, driver side rear, passenger side front. Is it the same on the RX-7? The only directions I can find in the Haynes manual are for the older models with the one bleeder screw for both sides in the back and my 83 GSL has one for each rear caliper.

Thanks!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Furthest to closest to the master cylinder.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Really? I always did closest to furthest... Then I'd go back and do one more try at each wheel.

83GSL Revival

So would this mean:

1) passenger side rear
2) driver side rear
3) passenger side front
4) driver side front

Or would you switch the middle two and do the passenger side front before the driver side rear?

Aviator 902S

Nope--- other way around. Start with the right rear wheel (farthest), then left rear, then right front, and finally left front (closest).

AdrenalifeRX7

Unless your master cyl is on the opposite side of the engine bay, as in most RHD 7's, then you would do the order that you mentionioned above. Starting with passenger side rear, driver side rear, passenger side front, and finally driver side front.

NanaimoRx-7

I thought for sure I read that it was master cylinder, left front, right front, right rear.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

if you're looking for furthest from the cyl, check both back wheels. One wheel cyl has 2 tubes connected to it. One from the front, the other going to the other back wheel.

the one that only has one tube going to it is the last in the chain of connections, and thus the one you start with, can't remember which that is.

Jon

someone82

Order according to haynes manual and which has also worked great for me many times:

Master Cylinder
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front

has never failed me! Also If I remeber the left rear is only on disc brake rear-ends' as the drum brake rear-ends' only has a bleeder on the right drum.

oh if any one has a weber 48 dcoe for sale send me a line

matt

NanaimoRx-7

You're right about the drums only having a bleeder on one side. And I also got my info from the Haynes manual, though it seems memeory has failed me a little today. I did remember that it was master cylinder first, yay me.

someone82

You were pretty close. You got three outta the four right And allot of people do forget that master cylinder too.
it happens to the best of us tho..... in the words of the immortal homer... DOH!

matt

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Now my question is WHY to bleed from farthest to nearest?

I bleed nearest to farthest because as the system branches, you can leave air in the middle of the system in things like the proportioning valve or something where the lines branch off.

someone82

The reason behind bleeding farthest to nearest is because if there is air in the rear brake lines and you bleed the front first it will draw that air back into the brake lines. You'll get the air out of the front since the lines to the front brakes are short, but the lines to the rear of the car are quite long, so the air just gets stuck in the middle.
If you are like most you bleed the brake several times before going to the next brake, thus drawing the air well into the brake system.
There is a chance you might not ever get a nice firm pedel. The air would just keep going back and forth but never out.

Matt

MRGSL-SE

could you just bleed the back brakes... and just leave the front alone... it sounds like a lot of work and DOT 3 fluid being pumped out...

onepointone

i never really thought about it

i put synthetic fluid in my system yesterday because i was having fading problems, i just did driver front, driver rear, pass rear, pass front. i made a few hard runs on a twisty road and it seemed fine to me. is it that big of a deal? do i need to do it again? the brake fluid wasnt all that cheap.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Hope that wasn't DOT 5, I hear it messes up seals that were designed for DOT 3/4... Anywhozer, if the pedal feels good, you're straight. Just so long as on the last pump you didnt see air bubbles come out.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

If you only worked on the back brake lines, yes, you only have to bleed the rears... If your fluid is black, bleed all four till it comes out light yellow like it should... Black brake fluid is contaminated...

Brake fluid is cheap, repairing collision damage or bolily injury is not... I'd rather have a car with no engine and good brakes than the meanest four rotor in the slickest italian body with no brakes. Don't skimp on the brakes... Bleeding brakes is nothing... Two people can get a whole car done in 10 mins. One person it takes half an hour.

83GSL Revival

OK, I give up. I feel rather stupid but I can not figure out how to bleed the master cylinder. According to the Haynes manual it should be on the left side of the master cylinder, but I've looked EVERYWHERE and simply don't see a screw or cannot figure out how to do it.

Would someone please help this hydraulically challenged individual out by telling him EXACTLY where it is/how to do i!

12aPwr

i heard this same thing pele, never use dot 5 with what originally had dot3/4 etc...
from what i have known its
right rear
left rear
right front
left front

Pele

iTrader: (28)

You dont bleed the Master unless you've replaced it or it's run dry.

You've gotta take the pipes off it and pump the pedal till fluid comes out without bubbles, THen attach the pipes and bleed the rest of the system...

But Like I said, rarely has to be done.

SoRRoW

Wanna know a little trick?

This has to be or 84/85 cars or has 84.85 brake booster..

I got drum rears and basic 12a calipers in the front..I had to buy a master cyl like a year ago,Well I wanted to upgrade..

Since im going to a SE set up..
I bought the SE master cyl andput it on the drum brake set up..and that bitch grabs 100 times better..

I will be going with the SE swap soon so no biggie..