What to look for when buying a 1st gen?
#1
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What to look for when buying a 1st gen?
I am looking to get a first gen for $500 everything is in decent shape, and it runs. Only thing is the choke gets stuck, and it seems like there might be a miss....its hard to tell because i am not used to the rotary sound but it has a consistant miss sounding sound. also when getting on the gas it is semi slugish...feels a little lagier that my 96Hp 1996 Saturn....Also its running rich...Very Rich.
on the top of the engine block there is a bank of connectors with vacumme lines going into the top and electrical wires going out the side towards the drivers fender, what are these, and one has a vaccume line cracked off
Yes i am a RX-7 newb, but i have a large degree of mechanical knowledge with cars.
on the top of the engine block there is a bank of connectors with vacumme lines going into the top and electrical wires going out the side towards the drivers fender, what are these, and one has a vaccume line cracked off
Yes i am a RX-7 newb, but i have a large degree of mechanical knowledge with cars.
#2
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aparently over in the us look for rust in the storage bins.
ahh..
check the exhaust for smoke and crap when she starts up, lots of smoke it not good.
all the little vacum lines and what not are called the rats nest, and they're there for emmisions, most people take it off straigt away.
vacum leaks arent good, so you might want to get someone to check that out.
and you shouldnt use the choke anyways.. it fouls the sparkplugs (or so ive been told)
hth
ahh..
check the exhaust for smoke and crap when she starts up, lots of smoke it not good.
all the little vacum lines and what not are called the rats nest, and they're there for emmisions, most people take it off straigt away.
vacum leaks arent good, so you might want to get someone to check that out.
and you shouldnt use the choke anyways.. it fouls the sparkplugs (or so ive been told)
hth
#3
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
The choke has a purpose. Even with my mukuni carb, I use the choke and it works the way it is supposed to, when the car is warm, the **** retracts. Behind the choke **** is a magnet. If you pull the choke out with the ignition off, it should immediately retract. With the ignition on, and the engine cold it should stay out and retract on it's own as the engine warms. If it doesn't perform as such then either the accelerator cable is binding, the magnet is out, the choke butterfly is sticking in the carbor there is an electrical problem with the choke.
Start by fixing the vaccum lines and go from there. There is a write up on rats nest removal, but I suggest you spend some time in the archives and study up on your car before you start modding. Get it running right first.
Start by fixing the vaccum lines and go from there. There is a write up on rats nest removal, but I suggest you spend some time in the archives and study up on your car before you start modding. Get it running right first.
#4
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Thanks guys! I have been reading through the boards quite a bit, but it looks like i still got alot more to go!
Seems like a very nice community ya all got here!
As for smoke, there wasnt much at start up, just a black puff.
How quickly revving should the first get 12a be? its a 5mt BTW.
Also looks like ther was no rust (in S. Az its pretty dry) that i visually saw, but before i purchase it i will pull back the carpet in the back. Its a 2 owner car, and a clean title only bod damage is a dented front pas fender by the head light ( light still ops fine), and a center moulding poped off.
I think im getting this car for a steal even with its problems!
Seems like a very nice community ya all got here!
As for smoke, there wasnt much at start up, just a black puff.
How quickly revving should the first get 12a be? its a 5mt BTW.
Also looks like ther was no rust (in S. Az its pretty dry) that i visually saw, but before i purchase it i will pull back the carpet in the back. Its a 2 owner car, and a clean title only bod damage is a dented front pas fender by the head light ( light still ops fine), and a center moulding poped off.
I think im getting this car for a steal even with its problems!
#5
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Pulling the carpet back won't reveal the storage bin rust - you actually have to remove one of the bins to do that. They are pretty easy to remove though, there are just screws around the outside under the lid that fasten the bin.
As long as it's running ok then I'd say that rust is the main concern. Also check at the leading edge of the rear quarter panel for rust on the inside of the wheel well. There's a bolt on the bottom of the driver's quater panel that holds a gas tank guard, look at that corner on the inside. Check for ANY rust creeping out from behind the window trim - look very carefully, because by the time it gets by the trim it's completely rusted behind there (but it can be fixed). And last for rust, check around the screws for the front passenger side sunroof holder clip - I think that screw was done too tight at the factory and cracked the paint because 4/4 of mine have had rust there.
Other concerns: Calipers can sieze, so check the pads for uneven wear (esspecially the rears). The gas guage fails due to corrosion at the tank - as long as it doesn't read totally empty it's probably working... If exhaust is still original it's getting pretty old and you can probably expect needing to replace it in a while.
These cars certainly are very fun to drive, even if they are under-powered. Good luck, and welcome the forums!
As long as it's running ok then I'd say that rust is the main concern. Also check at the leading edge of the rear quarter panel for rust on the inside of the wheel well. There's a bolt on the bottom of the driver's quater panel that holds a gas tank guard, look at that corner on the inside. Check for ANY rust creeping out from behind the window trim - look very carefully, because by the time it gets by the trim it's completely rusted behind there (but it can be fixed). And last for rust, check around the screws for the front passenger side sunroof holder clip - I think that screw was done too tight at the factory and cracked the paint because 4/4 of mine have had rust there.
Other concerns: Calipers can sieze, so check the pads for uneven wear (esspecially the rears). The gas guage fails due to corrosion at the tank - as long as it doesn't read totally empty it's probably working... If exhaust is still original it's getting pretty old and you can probably expect needing to replace it in a while.
These cars certainly are very fun to drive, even if they are under-powered. Good luck, and welcome the forums!
#6
The timing could be off if it feels sluggish, but that's no guarentee. If the car has lived in Tucson, rust is probably a minor concern. What year is it? Early FBs had radiator-type oil coolers that were prone to cracking and/or leaking. Check for leaks, signs for leaks, oil and coolant, around the engine and around the rear wheel bearing. I've had two FBs and they both developed leaks on the right rear wheel bearing. Good luck.
#7
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thanks guys!
Well it seems the gas guage is non funct cause it was totaly empty when i drove it. I will be taking a closer inspection tomarrow or tues and will be removing the storage bins to check for rust.
Well it seems the gas guage is non funct cause it was totaly empty when i drove it. I will be taking a closer inspection tomarrow or tues and will be removing the storage bins to check for rust.
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