What is leaking in this pic?
04-04-09, 04:26 PM
#1
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What is leaking in this pic?
ITs coolant. I can see a drip on the bottom of the piece that the alternator belt goes around. What is it? How much to fix it?
Thanks
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Thanks
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04-04-09, 04:44 PM
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Oh, the waterpump on these cars is in a fantastic location that is not actually that difficult to remove! Just have to remove the pulley to get at it.
What you'll find however, is that the gasket is likely super stuck on. I almost had to use a dremel to get mine off. It's made of that clothy synthetic stuff I think, and that's why it was stuck.
Couple hours of degreaser and soaking and it came off. While your at it though, replace the thermostat and gasket. Theres a chance that it's leaking also, and it's attached to the waterpump housing.
Some one with a better memory then me though might know.. is their a gasket between the waterpump housing and the engine block? I'm prettty sure that there is, and if that's the case.. check to see if that's leaking. It's alot more annoying to remove the whole water pump housing though because you have to remove the OMP lines if I remember correctly...
What you'll find however, is that the gasket is likely super stuck on. I almost had to use a dremel to get mine off. It's made of that clothy synthetic stuff I think, and that's why it was stuck.
Couple hours of degreaser and soaking and it came off. While your at it though, replace the thermostat and gasket. Theres a chance that it's leaking also, and it's attached to the waterpump housing.
Some one with a better memory then me though might know.. is their a gasket between the waterpump housing and the engine block? I'm prettty sure that there is, and if that's the case.. check to see if that's leaking. It's alot more annoying to remove the whole water pump housing though because you have to remove the OMP lines if I remember correctly...
04-04-09, 05:53 PM
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yeah water pump. its pretty easy. check prices the mazda factory water pump is vastly better quality than everything else, i think i paid like $35 for my last one, so its not expensive
04-04-09, 05:56 PM
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On a scale of 1-5 wrenches, this clocks in at a 2.5 wrench difficulty.
Drain your coolant system, then go to work. I wouldnt let it leak too long. These rotary engines run super hot, and they NEED to be cooled or they face serious mechanical wear and tear. Not to mention that stuff smells like candy to animals and it's poisioness.
You should be able to tackle this. It requires patience for then anything.
Drain your coolant system, then go to work. I wouldnt let it leak too long. These rotary engines run super hot, and they NEED to be cooled or they face serious mechanical wear and tear. Not to mention that stuff smells like candy to animals and it's poisioness.
You should be able to tackle this. It requires patience for then anything.
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04-04-09, 06:16 PM
#8
A leaking waterpupmp usually indicates a failed bearing seal. There is a weep hole in the casing where the coolant leaks out when this happens. Repair is quite simple and straight forward. Take care to not loosen the waterpump housing or you will be replacing another gasket.
04-04-09, 07:40 PM
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Thanks, where is the bearing seal? If I get one from Mazda and replace it will I be fine if that indeed is my problem?
How many wrenches is the oil cooler seals?
How many wrenches is the oil cooler seals?
04-04-09, 08:13 PM
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If you want to save a bit of weight, call around to different places and find someone selling an aluminum water pump. I got one through Autozone. I just chose the cheapest option they had and got lucky.
You don't have to pull the water pump housing off, but if you do then keep track of the thin washers that are on the bolts. These are spacers, and if you don't put them back in during assembly everything will leak.
And you don't want to put this off. If the pump finishes its failure process while you're on the road, you'll either be stranded or you'll burn up your motor before you realize what's happening. Not worth the risk in my opinion. Easy job, don't let it intimidate you.
You don't have to pull the water pump housing off, but if you do then keep track of the thin washers that are on the bolts. These are spacers, and if you don't put them back in during assembly everything will leak.
And you don't want to put this off. If the pump finishes its failure process while you're on the road, you'll either be stranded or you'll burn up your motor before you realize what's happening. Not worth the risk in my opinion. Easy job, don't let it intimidate you.
04-05-09, 07:44 AM
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Seems I have to order the water pump from Autozone, advance or orilleys also have to order, will it be okay to drive it for a few days? I drive about 5 miles each way to work.
Thanks on the thermo temp advice.
Thanks on the thermo temp advice.
04-05-09, 09:18 AM
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I was able to use a small mirror to see where its leaking. It seems to be coming out at a bolt, you can see in the mirror, marked with an arrow. Is this usually what happens? I thought it would be coming out near the end of the pump.
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04-05-09, 01:43 PM
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when you pull it apart here are a couple of hints.
take the fan off first, before the belts.
when you pull the pump off the housing, plan on the whole housing coming off, but hope it doesnt. the 2 studs on the left side have 2 little spacers, they make up for the waterpump housing to engine gasket, without em, the WP housing wont sit flat, and will leak. if you loose the washers, you can use gasket or something, its not super critical, but SOMETHING needs to be there.
scrape all the old gasket off, and use a little silicon on the new ones.
stock thermostat is 82C which is 180 F
the whole water pump job is easier than the oil cooler, but its less fun, cause scraping old gaskets sucks!
04-05-09, 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the extra hints. I ordered it today at Autozone but it wont be in until Tuesday. Will I be okay to drive itabout 5 miles each way to work?
This is my daily driver and it left me stranded last week due to corroded cap and rotor.
IF the housing does come off, is there a gasket for that also? Should I order it before trying to take the pump off?
This is my daily driver and it left me stranded last week due to corroded cap and rotor.
IF the housing does come off, is there a gasket for that also? Should I order it before trying to take the pump off?
04-06-09, 09:52 AM
#24
I have done them with and without gaskets. The pictures in the link I posted show using the gasket on the water pump. The picture above is a gross overuse of RTV. A thin continuous bead is all you want. If using a gasket I put the RTV on both sides. I also let the finished job set overnight before starting the car. This lets the RTV dry, somewhat, before you put it under pressure Whenever I open the cooling system I refill with plain water and run for a day or so until I'm sure I have no leaks. I drain the water and fill with 50/50 antifreeze and water mix when I'm sure it won't end up on the ground. The coolant drain plug is under the oil fill tube at the bottom of the center iron. It is a 14 mm bolt. One of the pictures shows it.