In my chronicles to get my '79 RX-7 running, I have removed, rebuilt, and replaced my carburetor about 6 times. Always tearing the thing apart, looking for what is wrong, and putting it back together again. I have seen where people have "emissions-free" carbs with all unnecessary stuff removed from the carb. I am wondering what can be taken off the carb that isn't essential. All I want is for the car to run, I don't care about emissions crap. Thanks.

 

I can send you some pics of my sterling carb so you can see everything you can take off. I will have a couple pics later on this evening.

 

Trash the stock carb...........Youll thank yourself later! I got 5 sevens in my garage, and if you are deadset on having a nikki under the hood, I got 5 of them laying around! I got no faith in the stock carb, it just plain sucks, engineered to please california emissions sniffers. Yank it, replace it, 6 times is way too much to mess with them! If you got no emissions to worry about, then you have no problems. I am sure you will be able to sleep at night knowing that are destroying the environment, and smiling every mile along the way.

 

The stock carb has plenty of potential... My Yaw is a perfect example, Sterling is another...

Anyways... here's what to remove: Click here

 

85TIIDevil, thanks for the link. That will help out a lot.

Drozhenbane, PM sent.

 

OK, I'm going out on a limb here. How do make the secondarys manual? Is this something fairly simple? I had Stan at SDJ Motorsports do my Nikki a couple of years ago. I have often wondered about the secondarys even working. I have a RB intake sitting in my garage, but I cant bring myself to pull the stock intake and carb just yet. I want to keep my cruise and AC. It becomes a little more important as you get older!!!! My car is a '83 GSL with a modded Nikki, RB street header, custom midpipe and APC muffler, Cutom fabbed cold air intake. The car pulls strong to about 6.5 grand, but sometimes you can feel a little surging in a hrad pull. The engine is a Mazda replacement with about 20k on her. Does anyone have a clue on this?

 

Replaced the fuel filter lately? If you are still running the oem fuel pump, it may be tired and running out fuel at the top end.

 

The fuel pump is stock as far as I know. The fuel filter was changed when the carb was rebuilt. Stan advised that I run a secondary filter in the line coming from the firewall to the carb just in case. I have never seen any trash in the fuel filter (see through type). As far as the fuel pump goes, I put a gauge in the line when the carb was first put back on, and it was showing 2 to 2.5 psi when running sitting still. I was told this was normal pressure for the stock pump. If I change the stock pump, do I replace, or just go aftermarket? I will be changing the intake and carb later this year. But will an aftermarket pump over power the stock carb? RB only recommends 4 psi on the Holley carb. Most of the aftermarket ones are like 15 psi or more. Any more advice? BTW, I did an archive search on the manual sencondarys on the stock Nikki. MAN, what a difference on the pickup!!!!! I didn't realize the vacuum pickup was so slow to engage the rear barrels. Oh well, going to do more research.

 

i am in the process of replacing my 12a, and the used motor that i am buying is about as simple as you can get. i don't need emissions, and the carb attached to the motor i am getting apparently has only the brake booster line, and the choke connected. everything else ha been blocked off. i haven't witnessed this in person yet, but this is the way the seller has it set up. i guess you could even ditch the choke if you live in a warm climate, but that wouldn't work for me...

if there is anything else that may be essential to keep on the carb, i'dl ike to know too

 

Me and my Uncle have always run Yaws, and swear by them. They're nothing but a stripped down, re-jetted Nikki.

So, yes, the Nikki has power. You just have to know how to get to it.

 

BS- you dont need the choke, just keep the fast idle for warmups in cold weather. It doesnt impede airflow though, it just complicates the carb more.

 

And his is not just rejetted, its totally reworked just like ours. We just work it a bit more. To the tune of 465cfm's. Eat that Holley!

 

i don't understand what you are saying....are you saying that there is a way to adjust the idle for when its cold it will idle higher, and once it warms up the idle will drop? so just to make sure....the brake booster is the only thing you really NEED (other than the fuel lines of course)???

 

So. . . you guys are more powerful than Yaw's carbs? Sorry, I'm still sort of new to the site and just know what my Uncle taught me, and have never heard of you (?)

 

Yes, the choke system controls the flapper choke. The fast idle is connected to the choke lever. When you pull out on the choke **** your really closing the choke flapper and increasing the idle speed by a link that goes down to the throttle shaft. And once it warms up, the choke **** will drop off, bringing the idle speed back down.

 

Well his carb flows 430 IIRC, we go a bit more radical with our rework. I wont go into anymore detail or say that ours is better per se, but the flow numbers dont lie. And we do have our own inhouse flowbench for testing.

 

How much are your carbs? Would you be willing to do a partial trade for one of my Yaw's?

 

anybody have a stock carb for an 84 gsl, I dont need an after market one since i am doing a engine swap soon but i need a stock one for the time being.

 

ok, so you can disconnect the actual choke lever, but the choke **** will still contril the fast idle, which will go down when the engine gets hot..

 

im rebuilding my carb for the first time and its actually really easey and fun while been doin it iv removed all the things in that list and im following sterlings write up on mehcanical seconds so far so good but i need some info on this
bolt is it reverse thread or just really tuff to get off iv used wd-40 and still cant get it off i need to get it off and take the fuel pipes off so i can undo the air solinoied end its plastic and it says on the carb cleaner itll eat it heres a pic of the bolt and platic thing and a picture of my cleaned throttle body+main body sucks i cant get in those tight areas where its yellow

 

There are no reverse threads on a 7. Use P B Blaster instead of WD.

 

Yer carb looks funny. . . . I dunno what it is. The top looks too. . . big. And I've seen stock Nikk's, not just my Yaws. What year Nikki is that?

 

i,ll have to look in my bin of rx7 parts but im pretty sure i have one but only draw back is I live in vancouver wahington.

 

gsterror its of a 83 s it might not be as the prevouse owner has done a few things to this car
maybe the picture just makes it look big

 

For some reason those vent things on the side look funny to me. My original carb is from an 82GS, so if anything, I think mine would be a bit more complicated

Oh well, maybe I'm just crazy.