Weight reduction of Fb without gutting of interior
09-23-07, 12:30 PM
#51
Bongolio
NICE...
Take the AC out and take the heat... take a girl on a date while you are at it
Take the metal in the bumper and eat your engine if you hit something...
Remove extra bolts and have your car rattle like a piece of junk...
replace the hood to loose minimal weigth... that will be costly.
"these cars are just built so solid and they are as light as possible without sacrificing creature comforts from the factory" 85rotarypower...
Best recomendation so far goes to mr.12a...start running 10 miles when you wake up that'll shed a few more pounds.
Just not worth the effort...
Start with reliability mods...
Take the AC out and take the heat... take a girl on a date while you are at it
Take the metal in the bumper and eat your engine if you hit something...
Remove extra bolts and have your car rattle like a piece of junk...
replace the hood to loose minimal weigth... that will be costly.
"these cars are just built so solid and they are as light as possible without sacrificing creature comforts from the factory" 85rotarypower...
Best recomendation so far goes to mr.12a...start running 10 miles when you wake up that'll shed a few more pounds.
Just not worth the effort...
Start with reliability mods...
09-23-07, 02:37 PM
#52
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
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Could you lighten the frame without comprimising Strength? I.E. Driling holes in point in the frame, where the effects are nil or negilible? I know they do that with some cars. Though the FB frame I have no clue if its plausible engineering wise...
09-23-07, 03:41 PM
#53
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I think that they are unibody, so unless you had a roll cage you couldn't. Correct me if I'm wrong though...
I'd love to go outside right now and lose a few pounds with my drill.
I'd love to go outside right now and lose a few pounds with my drill.
09-23-07, 05:06 PM
#54
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
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I have no clue about the FB frame so I wouldn't even want to touch it without doing a **** load of research XD
09-24-07, 01:27 AM
#55
I finally transfered the title back to me from the friend i sold my 85 GS to 5 years ago. I've been driving her around this weekend and couldn't get over the funny smell, then I realized it's because my buddy is an avid pot smoker! Yet another reason for removing the interior, and i would like to reduce the amount of combustable material inside the car. She's destined to be a track car...
Kinda sad for destroying an interior that is otherwise in pretty great shape.
Kinda sad for destroying an interior that is otherwise in pretty great shape.
09-24-07, 06:12 PM
#57
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i haven't seen this idea thrown around very often.
How about converting from bucket headlights to fixed headlights. I would think the removal of the motors and buckets would knock off around 20 pounds.
How about converting from bucket headlights to fixed headlights. I would think the removal of the motors and buckets would knock off around 20 pounds.
09-24-07, 08:28 PM
#58
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09-24-07, 09:03 PM
#59
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I have done most of the above mentioned Mods. The one thing I might add is an aluimum flywheel saves quite a bit.
By the way this is one of the best threads I have seen in a long time in this section
By the way this is one of the best threads I have seen in a long time in this section
09-24-07, 10:22 PM
#60
all you have to do is over extend the head light arm and it will hold its self upwhen you look at it you can see what you can cut away witch is like 90% of it.. it works gr8 my car has been like that for a long long time
will show pics if needed
09-24-07, 10:49 PM
#61
wheres the water goin?
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pls do
lol ive done this its very ez.. and you can use stock brackets all you have to do is over extend the head light arm and it will hold its self up
when you look at it you can see what you can cut away witch is like 90% of it.. it works gr8 my car has been like that for a long long time
will show pics if needed
all you have to do is over extend the head light arm and it will hold its self upwhen you look at it you can see what you can cut away witch is like 90% of it.. it works gr8 my car has been like that for a long long time
will show pics if needed
09-25-07, 01:58 AM
#63
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One piece racing buckets -- OE seats with recliners are heavy by necessity.
Lexan rear hatch -- it's big so you'll get more bang for the buck.
Ditch the spare -- might sound obvious, but it's easy. I carry a can of fix a flat and a AAA Plus card. (I actually ditched the spare because it wouldn't fit over my big brake kit, but you get the idea.)
Aluminum water pump housing from an FC -- saves a few pounds
Lightweight wheels and tires -- you can save a lot of weight here in a hurry. Hoosiers are very light (no steel belts), and some wheels (like Volk Racing) can save you 8 pounds per corner vs some of the heavier aftermarket wheels.
Aluminum driveshaft -- good for a few more pounds; CF is even better, but pricey
The AC system, the AC system -- did I say that twice? The compressor mounting bracket is a boat anchor.
Lightweight battery -- there are lots of racing units that weigh substantially less. You may give up some cranking power.
Lexan rear hatch -- it's big so you'll get more bang for the buck.
Ditch the spare -- might sound obvious, but it's easy. I carry a can of fix a flat and a AAA Plus card. (I actually ditched the spare because it wouldn't fit over my big brake kit, but you get the idea.)
Aluminum water pump housing from an FC -- saves a few pounds
Lightweight wheels and tires -- you can save a lot of weight here in a hurry. Hoosiers are very light (no steel belts), and some wheels (like Volk Racing) can save you 8 pounds per corner vs some of the heavier aftermarket wheels.
Aluminum driveshaft -- good for a few more pounds; CF is even better, but pricey
The AC system, the AC system -- did I say that twice? The compressor mounting bracket is a boat anchor.
Lightweight battery -- there are lots of racing units that weigh substantially less. You may give up some cranking power.
I didnt know they made aftermarket driveshafts for FB's, our are pretty light are they not, i went to go pick one up the other day and I though it would be heavy so i put some OOMPH if you will, into picking it up and I almost hit myself in the face, I would say that they might be less that 50lbs...please tell me if im wrong
09-25-07, 10:45 PM
#65
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
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O.o no one knows if you can drill out points in the frame to lighten it up? Withot affecting structrual integrity... That'd be interesting to see if possible...
what frame?............unibody 
bad form
09-26-07, 02:30 AM
#70
I like the thread! We all think about weight to power ratios, specially with the first gens. Unfortunately the thread shows you hit a point of dimishing returns really quick with SA/FBs. BUt it is funny to see the creativity and lengths people are willing to!!!
09-26-07, 12:13 PM
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09-26-07, 01:00 PM
#73
As long as you can mount the regulator in the door, you'll be able to roll the windows down. The window cranks attaches to the window regulator, not the door. The regulator has a splined shaft where the window crank slides over, and then you screw it on....
10-09-16, 12:28 PM
#74
I know this tread is old but I'm reviving it and I hope it stays that way.
Here's a list I made from all the parts and mods I did to my GS* RX7. I am not saying this is accurate. Most of it was guess work. Anyone can chime in and correct me. I have yet to actually weight the car on a scale.
*note = Car has the stock interior look. GS model with GSL rear end (weight should be a few pounds more with the LSD but I omitted it). Car has a glass moonroof installed, No A/C, no power steering, no power windows or locks. Has EQ with tape deck stereo, manual radio antenna (kept breaking), no cruise ctrl. The car all the options available except the Auto trans and cruise ctrl.
I believe the GS is the best option for lightweight. Minus the moonroof option. But I live the moonroof, especially with the glass upgrade I made.
SA were heavier too. They had heavy steel bumpers.
Does anyone know why the 80-81 series 2 was the lightest ?? All i can think of is the single speaker build into the dash and no side trim on the car haha..
Parts removed
————————————————————————————————————————————
Weber 36DCD carbs installed = 72
Sub-zero starting assist = 3
Hot-start assist = 1
exhaust support bracket + Fuel skid plate = 2
Brake booster + components = 1.5
Pulley+a/c mount bolts+Engine lift mounts = 1
Charcoal canister with bracket = 1
Engine wiring harness = 1
Rear sway bar removed and components = 10
Middle dust shields (trimmed fat) = .5
Beehive cooler to front Aluminum cooler = 2
Lightweight battery+tray = 30
Rear tow bracket hitch pass. side = 1
motor mounts replaced with hockey pucks = 1
Rear electric motor antenna = 1
Lightweight flywheel = 12
Dummy Tire and Jack = 34
Rear insulation mat = 8
182 lbs = 83kg
Car weight = 971kg approx.
RX7 GS 1984 - Stock Curb weight = 1054kg = 2325lbs
Diet Curb weight = 971kg = 2136lbs
1159 # 1160 stock weight @ 50/50
126 # 56lbs weight loss
1050 # 1086 = 49/51 weight distribution approx.
65L Full Fuel tank = 100 lbs = 45 kg
Here's a list I made from all the parts and mods I did to my GS* RX7. I am not saying this is accurate. Most of it was guess work. Anyone can chime in and correct me. I have yet to actually weight the car on a scale.
*note = Car has the stock interior look. GS model with GSL rear end (weight should be a few pounds more with the LSD but I omitted it). Car has a glass moonroof installed, No A/C, no power steering, no power windows or locks. Has EQ with tape deck stereo, manual radio antenna (kept breaking), no cruise ctrl. The car all the options available except the Auto trans and cruise ctrl.
I believe the GS is the best option for lightweight. Minus the moonroof option. But I live the moonroof, especially with the glass upgrade I made.
SA were heavier too. They had heavy steel bumpers.
Does anyone know why the 80-81 series 2 was the lightest ?? All i can think of is the single speaker build into the dash and no side trim on the car haha..
Parts removed
————————————————————————————————————————————
Weber 36DCD carbs installed = 72
Sub-zero starting assist = 3
Hot-start assist = 1
exhaust support bracket + Fuel skid plate = 2
Brake booster + components = 1.5
Pulley+a/c mount bolts+Engine lift mounts = 1
Charcoal canister with bracket = 1
Engine wiring harness = 1
Rear sway bar removed and components = 10
Middle dust shields (trimmed fat) = .5
Beehive cooler to front Aluminum cooler = 2
Lightweight battery+tray = 30
Rear tow bracket hitch pass. side = 1
motor mounts replaced with hockey pucks = 1
Rear electric motor antenna = 1
Lightweight flywheel = 12
Dummy Tire and Jack = 34
Rear insulation mat = 8
182 lbs = 83kg
Car weight = 971kg approx.
RX7 GS 1984 - Stock Curb weight = 1054kg = 2325lbs
Diet Curb weight = 971kg = 2136lbs
1159 # 1160 stock weight @ 50/50
126 # 56lbs weight loss
1050 # 1086 = 49/51 weight distribution approx.
65L Full Fuel tank = 100 lbs = 45 kg
Last edited by kirkosaki; 10-09-16 at 12:44 PM.
