Ok.... the beast finally runs, and drives, and everything.



But I can't seem to find anywhere on getting this damn Weber tuned!


It dies at every stoplight, and anytime it drops below 2grand.

Above 2 grand, however, is fun...


It also runs PIG RICH. I think I'm averaging 6-10 mpg.



How do I lean it out, tune it, and keep it still in the optimal power band? I realize I'll lose some of the top end in exchange for low end, but that's a sacrifice I'm more than willing to make.


Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

finally someone in my economy range.. i am getting about 9 mpg with my 44pph (on a stock port se motor). i thought that it was running rich as hell but a wideband o2 on the dyno says that i am not.. ????

when the car is cold , my seven dies all the time.. same type of problem that you are having. but if i through it into neutral to slow down (comming from fourth or fifth) it dies as well.. my guess , for the most part, is jetting..

 

What's in the carb now?

What air jets, main jets, emulsion tubes, venturi size, and needle valve?

Also, is the motor ported, and what type of exhaust sytem do you have?

 

I don't know any of the specs about it.... it was intended for a VW... that's all I know about it.


Having never worked on a Weber, or a carb for that matter, this is all new territory to me.


zyounker might have a better clue about what's in there.... he's the one I got it from.


*edit* I believe that it's a stock port... and it feeds into a RB Road Race header... that's been hacked and joined into one at the very end of the header.

 

carb specs it should have;

65F9 idle jets........

40 mm venturies

f11 e tubes

200 fuel jets
180 air jets
0 bypass acc. pump jet
all of wich the carb dosnt have if it came off a bug!!!!

p.s. did the linkage piece work i sent you?

 

Don't forget the 3mm needle valve if it doesn't have one already. I also posted the diagram for the float level in another current thread.

 

it wont idle, then your circuit is clogged. Take all main and idle jets holder including the closed jet in bottom of the fuel bowl. Spray all the holes with brake cleaner to loosen the gunk and then use compressed air to blow them out.

 

If it's boosted than make sure you turn your idle jet screws 3-4 turns

 

yah he is right try that first!!!!

 

I was tuning my IDF and just like you said, you have to make sure the screws are 3 or more turns out or it won't idle, why is that?

When it was one turn out it would die when you stop and the idle would be all over the place!

If you put bigger idle jets in would that solve the problem?

 

It might, but it could be a lot trickier to tune. Corky Bell recommends 3-4 turns if you are using a Cartech kit and the Weber. It may run slightly rich but that's the intention.

 

Wow, cool, thanks for the info.

Off to my car to make some adjustments.

Last time I had bigger idle jets in it loped like crazy and I almost got sick from the fumes!

 

I forgot to tell you to turn the screws all the way in, BUT DO NOT OVERTURN THEM! When the springs are compressed and the screw stops moving under light torsion, turn them 3 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise. What I did was I got 2 flathead screwdrivers and I turned both screws in synchronization. Tune it to your liking but you won't be able to tell until the car is fully warmed up. Remember if you overtighten the jet screws when you are going to tune them, then most likely you will strip the threads it will never run right again.

 

Oh, I always tighten them and loosen them by hand. I take not of where the slot is and count from there.

Thanks again for the info, tuning carbs is a bitch when you don't know what's going on.

 

The reason it dies is because the idle stop is missing.. you know this.. there is no adjustment for the idle.


And the carb is setup for a 13B street port so it probably is rich.. not for a VW.


To adjust the mixture we need to get new jets, but 1st you need to get a bung welded on your header so we can put the wideband on it..

 

but there has to be SOME other way to make it work.



And 680, yes, the linkage works, but it doesn't hook up to the idle speed screw...


And I thought you told me it was from a VW, that was mounted on a streetport 13B intake? I may be wrong.


And how much is it to get the bung welded on?

 

When I bought my carb it came with linkage things on both sides, I have spares for both of them if you need one.

 

We just need to make one.. isnt hard.. we could probably use the old linkage and put it on the other side. the shaft goes all the way through the carb..


No, it is not for a VW, i said the linkage i had was probably for one.. no biggie.


You could get a bung welded on for ~20-30 probably..


-Zach

 

Cost me $20 from Midas to add an O2.

 

Midas and Meineke both will not work on a car that is minus cats.

 

i just took the header in and had the guy put an o2 bung in. isnt tuning a carby with a wideband against some sort of rule? that would be like me ripping the su's off the tr3 and putting a haltech on. be a man tune it with a stopwatch and 3 cigars!

mike

 

the header and all the exhaust pipes are welded together.... it's all one piece.