Warm Engine starting issues
06-10-08, 06:41 PM
#1
Tech Dweeb
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Warm Engine starting issues
ok well if any of you have been reading what iv been posting iv ran into another problem on my street port >.<
I have an 83 Rx7 with a 12a street port rb heads and rb exhaust I just rebuilt the stock Nikki Carb (found it had a stuck needle) bolted it onto the rx7 and it started and iv been fiddling with the MAS and TAS screws on the Carb to make it run right at about 800 rpm's.
I can start it when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a couple hours. When its warm I need some one to give me a push to get it started my fuel pump is old but it still works was thinking it could be low fuel pressure? or maybe my engine timing is off?
Any ideas?
I have an 83 Rx7 with a 12a street port rb heads and rb exhaust I just rebuilt the stock Nikki Carb (found it had a stuck needle) bolted it onto the rx7 and it started and iv been fiddling with the MAS and TAS screws on the Carb to make it run right at about 800 rpm's.
I can start it when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a couple hours. When its warm I need some one to give me a push to get it started my fuel pump is old but it still works was thinking it could be low fuel pressure? or maybe my engine timing is off?
Any ideas?
Last edited by Noxi; 06-10-08 at 07:00 PM.
06-10-08, 06:46 PM
#2
ok well if any of you have been reading what iv been posting iv ran into another problem on my street port >.<
I have an 83 Rx7 with a 12a street port rb heads and rb exhaust I just rebuilt the stock Nikki Carb (found it had a stuck needle) bolted it onto the rx7 and iv been fiddling with the MAS and TAS screws to make it run right at about 800 rpm's and I can start it when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a couple hours. When its warm I need some one to give me a push to get it started my fuel pump is old but it still works was thinking it could be fuel pressure? or maybe my engine is off timed? or I just havent gotten the right setting on the fuel to air ratio on the car
Any ideas?
I have an 83 Rx7 with a 12a street port rb heads and rb exhaust I just rebuilt the stock Nikki Carb (found it had a stuck needle) bolted it onto the rx7 and iv been fiddling with the MAS and TAS screws to make it run right at about 800 rpm's and I can start it when the engine is cold and has been sitting for a couple hours. When its warm I need some one to give me a push to get it started my fuel pump is old but it still works was thinking it could be fuel pressure? or maybe my engine is off timed? or I just havent gotten the right setting on the fuel to air ratio on the car
Any ideas?
WTF???
06-10-08, 07:08 PM
#4
Why didn't you just say that in the first place....
My car used to get flooded very easily when it was hot... running fine... shut down... try and start back up... just cranking...
the theory on my problem was crappy compression and my fan clutch being completely engaged so when I would try and turn it over when it was hot it would also be turning the fan.
Not necessarily directed at your situation... but it might get you started
Oh and our cars love to start when they're cold... i'm also assuming that you still have the belt driven rad fan
My car used to get flooded very easily when it was hot... running fine... shut down... try and start back up... just cranking...
the theory on my problem was crappy compression and my fan clutch being completely engaged so when I would try and turn it over when it was hot it would also be turning the fan.
Not necessarily directed at your situation... but it might get you started
Oh and our cars love to start when they're cold... i'm also assuming that you still have the belt driven rad fan
06-10-08, 07:33 PM
#5
RotorHead
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i just rebuilt the 13b in my 10AE, same issue. I put a toggle switch on the power to the fuel pump.
When its warm and floods out, i cut the fuel pump and keep cranking, when she fires up i turn the fuel pump back on and she runs fine.
However i was led to believe this would get better as the engine breaks in.
When its warm and floods out, i cut the fuel pump and keep cranking, when she fires up i turn the fuel pump back on and she runs fine.
However i was led to believe this would get better as the engine breaks in.
06-10-08, 08:05 PM
#7
Tech Dweeb
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I dont know if it is flooding I just started my engine and it took a while to warm up and it wouldn't idle had to keep on the choke/gas to keep it from dieing when it finaly idled at about 800 I turn the engine off
I tried turning it over, it would turn over but didn't want to start then I pulled my spark plugs they seem dry not wet cleaned em still didnt want to start I waited for about 20 mins and the car would start up but takes a few cranks and I had to pull on the choke before it finally wanted to start up
other thing i noticed when I give it gas and get it above about 3000 and let off I hear back fires out of my exhaust
I tried turning it over, it would turn over but didn't want to start then I pulled my spark plugs they seem dry not wet cleaned em still didnt want to start I waited for about 20 mins and the car would start up but takes a few cranks and I had to pull on the choke before it finally wanted to start up
other thing i noticed when I give it gas and get it above about 3000 and let off I hear back fires out of my exhaust
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06-10-08, 08:15 PM
#8
Tech Dweeb
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Why didn't you just say that in the first place....
My car used to get flooded very easily when it was hot... running fine... shut down... try and start back up... just cranking...
the theory on my problem was crappy compression and my fan clutch being completely engaged so when I would try and turn it over when it was hot it would also be turning the fan.
Not necessarily directed at your situation... but it might get you started
Oh and our cars love to start when they're cold... i'm also assuming that you still have the belt driven rad fan
My car used to get flooded very easily when it was hot... running fine... shut down... try and start back up... just cranking...
the theory on my problem was crappy compression and my fan clutch being completely engaged so when I would try and turn it over when it was hot it would also be turning the fan.
Not necessarily directed at your situation... but it might get you started
Oh and our cars love to start when they're cold... i'm also assuming that you still have the belt driven rad fan
dont know alot about the compression what would I need to test it?
06-10-08, 08:47 PM
#11
djessence
Umm, it attaches to the carb nearish the middle similar to throtte cable or cruise but its more front than those 2. It runs across to just behind driver side strut tower and often makes a god awful noise. Not overly sure how it functions, check the FSM (available in my sig) for how to check it.
Sorry for the vague description lol
Sorry for the vague description lol
06-10-08, 09:07 PM
#12
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Umm, it attaches to the carb nearish the middle similar to throtte cable or cruise but its more front than those 2. It runs across to just behind driver side strut tower and often makes a god awful noise. Not overly sure how it functions, check the FSM (available in my sig) for how to check it.
Sorry for the vague description lol
Sorry for the vague description lol
06-10-08, 09:10 PM
#13
djessence
Take a look and let us know. Check the FSM for adjustment/checking.
Also make sure the electrical connector is hooked up to the back of it.
I would take a pic for you of what I'm talking about and where it is for sure but I am nowhere even remotely close to where my car is sitting infortunately
Also make sure the electrical connector is hooked up to the back of it.
I would take a pic for you of what I'm talking about and where it is for sure but I am nowhere even remotely close to where my car is sitting infortunately
06-10-08, 09:10 PM
#14
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Umm, it attaches to the carb nearish the middle similar to throtte cable or cruise but its more front than those 2. It runs across to just behind driver side strut tower and often makes a god awful noise. Not overly sure how it functions, check the FSM (available in my sig) for how to check it.
Sorry for the vague description lol
Sorry for the vague description lol
I dont know where it should connect to. Does one have real pictures of where my hot start assist lever should be connected to? I dont even think I have a cable to connect to it either on my car
Last edited by Noxi; 06-10-08 at 09:17 PM.
06-10-08, 09:15 PM
#15
djessence
So thats where tjhat lock spring goes..... Ive been wondering where the **** it went for a bit (rebuilt engine).
If you look in your engine bay on the back side of the strut tower driver side there is a thing that looks like a 2 prong fork with a vertical edge on the front side, it attaches to that. Again sorry with the vague description, i might be able to find a blurry pic.
If you look in your engine bay on the back side of the strut tower driver side there is a thing that looks like a 2 prong fork with a vertical edge on the front side, it attaches to that. Again sorry with the vague description, i might be able to find a blurry pic.
06-10-08, 09:20 PM
#16
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i actually don't have the hot assist on my car..when my engine got rebuilt the shop just told me that the assist went bad..mine still runs fine without it...just make sure to pull the choke all the way out when cranking...i had a problem with this before
06-10-08, 09:21 PM
#18
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So thats where tjhat lock spring goes..... Ive been wondering where the **** it went for a bit (rebuilt engine).
If you look in your engine bay on the back side of the strut tower driver side there is a thing that looks like a 2 prong fork with a vertical edge on the front side, it attaches to that. Again sorry with the vague description, i might be able to find a blurry pic.
If you look in your engine bay on the back side of the strut tower driver side there is a thing that looks like a 2 prong fork with a vertical edge on the front side, it attaches to that. Again sorry with the vague description, i might be able to find a blurry pic.
Im sure this is the problem considering I dont even have the damn thing hooked up 
Thanks Dj with out the link to the Fsm I probably would of over looked that time and time again
06-10-08, 09:22 PM
#19
djessence
See 2 posts above for real pic if still somewhat vague
06-10-08, 09:27 PM
#21
djessence
oh so re-looking are your diagram i didnt realize what you meant so my pic is meaningless lol.
EDIT: Wait yes i do, the part you outlined if where the cable end with the cylinder stopper thingy attaches to. Same as accelerator cables and such
Right so you cable bracket holds the big part with the adjustment bolts and then the cable end attaches to the part in question.
EDIT: Wait yes i do, the part you outlined if where the cable end with the cylinder stopper thingy attaches to. Same as accelerator cables and such
Right so you cable bracket holds the big part with the adjustment bolts and then the cable end attaches to the part in question.
06-10-08, 09:37 PM
#23
Tech Dweeb
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oh so re-looking are your diagram i didnt realize what you meant so my pic is meaningless lol.
EDIT: Wait yes i do, the part you outlined if where the cable end with the cylinder stopper thingy attaches to. Same as accelerator cables and such
Right so you cable bracket holds the big part with the adjustment bolts and then the cable end attaches to the part in question.
EDIT: Wait yes i do, the part you outlined if where the cable end with the cylinder stopper thingy attaches to. Same as accelerator cables and such
Right so you cable bracket holds the big part with the adjustment bolts and then the cable end attaches to the part in question.
06-11-08, 10:36 AM
#24
a side note... your fan clutch has gone bad if it is constantly spinning
to test this try spinning the fan with the engine OFF... don't try this on a running engine if you don't know if the clutch is good or bad. If the fan spins freely then you'r clutch is fine... if it is really difficult to turn then you might want to look into getting another clutch...
good luck with your hot assist problem... my car doesn't have it anymore, so i'm no help
Just for reference pumping the gas on my old engine did help to start it when it was warm/hot although i have a 465 holley
to test this try spinning the fan with the engine OFF... don't try this on a running engine if you don't know if the clutch is good or bad. If the fan spins freely then you'r clutch is fine... if it is really difficult to turn then you might want to look into getting another clutch...
good luck with your hot assist problem... my car doesn't have it anymore, so i'm no help
Just for reference pumping the gas on my old engine did help to start it when it was warm/hot although i have a 465 holley
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