Sentric

Okay guys, I'm new to this. I'm a Nissan guy that's on my second engine swap with my buddies (300ZX TT new engine drop in, the first was a 240SX upgrade and turboing). So I'm not new to cars by any means. But I am new to rotary engines, Mazdas and a sports car I can call my own. I'm plenty happy with the pep of my Sentra, but I want something better.

Here's the deal, I've only ever bought one car in my life that I had a choice for (the first one was a gift from a relative for $100) and this is much older than my 94.

I'm looking at a CHEAP 1979 5speed with the 1.1L engine. 89,200 miles, in Minnesota but not driven in winter. Some rust and a jumpy idle. Hasn't been driven almost at all in two years. Starts right up and runs well aparently. "This is a good car for someone that wants to rebuild a classic car."

I'm going to go look at it this weekend, you guys are the best to ask for this:
What should I be wary of and waht are common problems with these cars?

thanks in advance.

Naegleria_Fowleri

You should be weary of typical stuff, hoses, general wear and tear. Both of my first gens have had brake problems as well. Since it is a '79 you'll have rear drum brakes. Also look for oil leaks, get a compression check if possible. 89,200 miles is really low for a '79. Both mine have over a 100,000. One has 116,000, the other 125,000. Also find out what is specifically causing the idle problem. Someone else will chime in and tell you specifics about the SA's.

Oh yeah, and definitely check the FAQ sticky at the top of the section.

Lee Lyons

wheel well rust in the rear is a big one...they get bin rust pretty bad...other than the usual stuff to check over...look for rust anywhere you think it'll be...when I bought my 81 I didn't really care if it ran as I was not using the 12a in there anyway but I was concerned with the body...

Kentetsu

Yeah, you can pretty much fix anything other than rust. Get it up in the air and take a really hard look underneath it. Check under the spare tire, and remove the rear storage bins so you can check under there (just a few screws to remove).

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

being a 79, it does not have the rear bins. not until 81. but you can check under the spare tire and look behind the rear tires in the wheel well for rust issues. also, check for faulty hydraulics, and worn front suspension parts. if it has a jumpy idle, you have three things that could cause that: vaccume leak, poor fuel or a clogging fuel system (carb, lines, filter etc) or weak or fouled spark. if it runs and drives, and its under $500, its a bargain.

Sentric

Price is $675, but the guy has had it for sale since the first week of november and everyone thats looks at it expects it to be this pristine piece of machinery. I know that the price he wants, I'm going to be doing work. Being familiar with Bondo, I'm willing to do bodywork. What concerns me is engine work, waht would a blown apex seal cost to have replaced? Is it easy to do myself? I've spent the last few days researching the sngine and the cars in general and it loks rather simple to get inside the engine, moreso than any piston engine...

Sentric

oh, here's a picture of it. I know it could be better, but this what he posted on carsoup.

MosesX605

I paid $700 for my SA, I'd say that for any running RX-7 you can't go wrong at that price point unless it's seriously rusted out.

As for the motor, you don't 'fix a blown apex seal,' you replace the rotor housing and rotor where the seal went, as it usually takes out everything in its path on the way out of the engine. I wouldn't worry much about it though. At that mileage level you should have quite a long engine life ahead of you provided maintinence was kept up during the car's life.

Lee Lyons

you had better not be a bondo nut...no one should be allowed to fix a hole with just bondo...midst well do the job right use minimal bondo...another must look place for rust is if the car has a sunroof...take the panel right out of the roof and look for tunnel rust!! rust up there is the hardest to fix...although entirely possible with alittle patience...

Sentric

I know that one well. I almost bought a sentra identical to mine about a week before I found the one I have now and the whole reason I didn't get it was the rust bordering the entire sunroof. How about common engine leaks? I'm assuming that there's no power steering and no ABS. It's the GS model so does it have rear disc brakes or not? from what I can tell, this guy isn't quite sure what model he has on his hands at this point. I'm waiting for a call back from him sometime this afternoon.

Dr_Jeff

GS = no rear disk brakes

Sentric

well, no luck at all contacting the guy that's selling it.

bummer there. If this doesn;t go through, thanks for everyone that commented.