Very Strange Carb Problem (12a, Nikki)
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Very Strange Carb Problem (12a, Nikki)
I have a 12a engine with a nikki carb that has vacuum operated secondaries. The engine is most likely from a 1st gen RX-7.
The problem:
The primary butterflies won't open.
If I move the throttle linkage by hand, I can get maybe 3 degrees of rotation at the most out of the butterflies.
Does anybody have any idea what could possibly be causing this problem?
The engine is in a Brazilian Puma GTI - Made in 1981. I recently aquired the car, and I'm currently trying to get it to run. I suspect that working primaries might help...
Cheers
The problem:
The primary butterflies won't open.
If I move the throttle linkage by hand, I can get maybe 3 degrees of rotation at the most out of the butterflies.
Does anybody have any idea what could possibly be causing this problem?
The engine is in a Brazilian Puma GTI - Made in 1981. I recently aquired the car, and I'm currently trying to get it to run. I suspect that working primaries might help...
Cheers
#2
buzzzzz!-ook!-buzzzzz!
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its siezed like a ****...
pull apart the carb, rebuild it (not too hard, get lots of ziploc baggies) and soak the valve body in any lubricant you have 2 or more litres of, then work dat ting (na na na na) till it (and the likely frozen secondaries) moves a full 90 degress (pi/2 radians)
pull apart the carb, rebuild it (not too hard, get lots of ziploc baggies) and soak the valve body in any lubricant you have 2 or more litres of, then work dat ting (na na na na) till it (and the likely frozen secondaries) moves a full 90 degress (pi/2 radians)
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Is the linkage binding, or just not opening? It might be one of the springs or clips isn't on the right side of whatever it's supposed to be on. If that happens, you'll be able to move the rod but the butterflies won't move.
If the whole linkage is binding, I would soak it in lubricant before you tear it apart. No sense taking the thing apart when there's just a little crud on the interior of the bore.
If the whole linkage is binding, I would soak it in lubricant before you tear it apart. No sense taking the thing apart when there's just a little crud on the interior of the bore.
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Update
So I sprayed a good amount of a penetrating lubricant called "Rust Check" on both ends of the thottle linkage, and then moved the linkage with a wrench. It got a little better after one day, and today the linkage has full range of motion. Problem solved! (well one of them anyway...)
Thanks for the advice eh.
Thanks for the advice eh.
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Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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09-16-18 07:16 PM