Hope you've got a vise too. Both cdrad51 and me had to freggin' torque the brass NPT fittings really tight to stop any leaks on the Holley FPR. I used teflon tape too, but with the amount of torque required to get the tapered brass fittings to seat, it really didn't make any difference. As a mater of fact- you might get shreds of teflon tape in the fuel stream, so forget about it.

But I wouldn't worry about the FPR just yet- your car should run and idle just fine with the Purolator crap that's on it.

 

My dad is out getting fittings for the Holley regulator and guge. I took off the other FPR and the fittings were kinda loose, but they weren't even matching. One was a slip-on fitting. Hopefully it's just the FPR. I also got some more new fuel line to replace the old so now I have no old fuel line in my car. All new. I tested the pump just to make sure. It pumped fine. The Carter P4070 puts out 4-6 PSI. I might have been able to try it without a regulator if I had thought about it. If it's not the FPR that was causing hte problem then I'm sunk. There's nothing else I can think of to keep it from starting.

 

I'm getting a new distributor cap and rotor today also. The cap didn't look good inside. I never got around to testing spark yesterday. I never had anybody to help me. Carburetor is getting fuel, but it doesn't look like it's getting sucked down into the engine. I didn't have the choke out any. We'll see what happens when I get the cap and rotor.

 

I know the carburetor is getting fuel and the spark plugs have spark. We tried spraying starter fuild in. When we sprayed into the rear rotor intake it tried to turn over, but when we did the front rotor nothing happened. Also when it was running last week nothing happened when I adjusted the front rotor intake adjustments. When I turn the main pulley I only hear one or two pulses of air. Does this mean the front rotor has a bad seal?

 

Well, yeah if you only hear 1 out of 3 'whooshes' that's not a good thing. However- I'm not an expert. You may want to see if someone else can chime in on this. I've read that you can visually inspect the apex seals by taking off the exhaust manifold/header and slowly rotating the motor to see if any of the seals are blown.

You sure about the 'whooshes' on the front rotor? Noticeably different than the rear?

 

We didn't take the rear spark plugs out, just the fronts. So I don't know.

 

Wow..I have the same setup waiting to be put on. All this from a carb swap? Was the car running ok before the Mikuni?

 

Not perfect. It was sputtering when cold until it got to high enough RPM and after it got a little warmer it wouldn't idle. That was all before the swap. I had the Nikki rebuilt a little while before this and the guy screwed it up the first time so I thought it was just the carb again.

 

Well- this would be just about the time I'd cry Uncle and start asking for some help from some of the more versed guys on the board. Maybe you want to pull the exhaust manifold and visually inspect the seals.

However- I would think that the car would start on one rotor. It'd run like hell, but it would start.

You already verified the car is in time or close to time, so that can't be it. This really sucks.

 

Yes. Yes it does suck. So if the local rotary shop isn't still there I'm gonna have to get a new engine. I don't have time to rebuild it myself.