What if I just push started it until it unlocked? How bad would that be on the motor?

 

snap goes the apex seal...

you GOTTA rock the engine back and forth until it unlocks, trust me.... you'll snap an apex seal if you just try to force it...

 

ATF, MMO, Diesel, EVEYRTHING!! Ok, maybe not Diesel unless you get REALLY desperate. Then, be careful with it. Shes fragile .

~T.J.

 

I think the best way is to pour as much MMO into the engine as you can. Down through the intake, and unscrew the top plugs and pour it into there too. Let it sit for a day or two, the longer the better. The MMO will break up some of the carbon in there. Then rock it back and forth until it unlocks. The MMO will foul the spark plugs so after you finally get it started and the bigass smoke cloud goes away, drive it hard for a little while then replace the plugs.

 

atf/mmo bath. don't worry about overdoing it. i used a qt of each on the 79. make sure and pull the plugs and put in there too. you want to try to get all chambers.

 

I'd use Techron or Amsoil "power foam" over ATF or MMO, as both products are made specifically for cleaning engine internals and are safer for the exhaust system and catalytic converters. The people on this forum seem to have an almost slavish devotion to ATF, while Techron and power foam are totally overlooked.
Kind of surprising really, as both products do an excellent job, though they are a bit more expensive.
Am I the only guy on this forum who knows about these products or what? ATF is not meant to burn,what do you think happens to it after it gets puked out into the exhaust system? I'm not trying to start an argument, just trying to get people to think about these alternatives. -WG

 

I'm with you, I'd like to see this settled once and for all. Wonder if someone has parts caked with carbon, and could do an experiment with ATF and the other products? The power foam stuff makes sense, but I used ATF 'cause everyone here seems to like it.
Come on guy's lets do it & see for ourselves. I'll even help spring for the products!

 

How does rubber react to Techron or Amsoil "power foam"? Just curious because of the oil seals in the engine.

 

Well, I regularly use power foam to CLEAN rubber parts, so I don't see a problem there. And I've never had any problems from using Techron. Like I said, both products are specifically designed to clean engine internals. Techron is typically allowed to sit in the motor for a few days before starting the motor and blowing it out. It clears out pretty fast, too. Chevron stations sell Techron, but I've been told that NAPA has it cheaper. I haven't checked that out yet. Power foam is usually sold by Amsoil dealers, but I get mine at the gunshop. Seems the stuff works great for cleaning shotgun barrels!

 

I have three engines torn down all in need of cleaning if I can find some techron or amsoil in my town I will do the experiment and post pics on my sight

peace

 

it runs out the tail pipe into a puddle.

also the atf helped me find all my exhaust leaks. however i also had the oven, er, thermal nuclear reactor, so i didn't have to worry about clogging my kittie.

 

Jeremy, do you think that's a GOOD thing?
Personally, I'd be wondering about how much it may be fouling the muffler as well as the thermal reactor. I think it's quite likely that the ATF gets spewed into the thermal reactor's inner chamber and then gets "fired" on like a glaze from the heat of the exhaust. I also think it's likely that the same thing is happening in the muffler, and cats on cars that use the damn things.

And Damon, If you're talking about using Techron and/or power foam to hand-clean some rotors, don't waste your $$. Cheap Stoddard solvent and a brush works just fine for that. The other products' main advantage is that they clean the motor without disassembling it. The power foam sprayed on a rag is quite useful for hand-cleaning rubber parts, though.

Sorry to throw THIS out so late, but you guys do realize that you can also use ordinary WATER to do pretty much the same thing, don't you? -Mike

 

yes absolutely, but we're talking about a "locked rotary" here. Water is good for a rotary that's running but needs to be cleared.

 

Yeah, I kinda got off on a tangent there.
Sorry 'bout that.

 

no problem.... I feel your frustation about the ATF/MMO mantra 'round here.

 

caking to the inner chamber of the reactor is bad in? and my muffler does the same thing it did. yes you will probably get some build up in the pipe. will it be harmful? i haven't seen it. if you ask me, you are getting a touch worked up over something silly and stupid. however, given that the stuff doesn't eat rubber or damage anything then that sounds like a great substitute. however the atf trick has been used since the 60's so most people don't argue despite that better technology may have come around to accomplish the goal better.

also curious about this water thing. i know you can cool intake temps and lower detonation with water injection, but i haven't heard about cleaning the internals with it.

 

Check out this thread entitled Water instead of ATF for decarboning

 

Interesting idea.

 

I didn't read the entire thread as my wife and I are just leaving to go listen to one of our friends' band, but I just wanted to say that one needs to be careful when using water for de-carbonizing. If you use too much water too quickly, it can lock the motor. Better to use a spray bottle and pump it as fast as you can. -WG

 

Using the trailing holes is a waste of time.