I have a streetported 13B 4-port and now am lookin to turbo my baby. I know I need the manifold, turbo. piping, BOV,wastegate, intercooler, turbo timer, boost control, but amwondering where to run the oil lines from. I'm also gonna need a better fuel system. I'm not sure what to go with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Your fuel pump should be fine,the carb will need some mods to work under positive manifold pressure.You may want to limit total ignition advance once you start boosting,since you will be running a N/A compression ratio.

The oil feed can come from a RB or other oil filter adaptor plate.Its just a slab of aluminum that mounts under the filter and has ports for oil temp,pressure or whatever. Just be sure the port you use, comes from the clean side of the oil filter.
DO NOT tee off the oil pressure sending unit, below.The oil there is not filtered yet and the tight tolerences of the turbo bearing will not tolerate dirty oil.

The oil drain can go to the front cover,just below the oil metering pump.There is an easy spot to drill and tap for a drain.Some people like to tap into the oilpan because its easier to remove,but its much more likely to leak from there since its below the oil level and the metal is thinner.Better to copy Mazda's factory turbo drain setup,which is to the front cover.
BTW,a stock 89-91 TII turbo and manifold is an excellent choice for an 8-10 psi turbo setup.They are cheap,plentiful and easy to bolt up with very little fab work needed.The 87-88 TII turbo/manifold will work too,but are far inferior in design.(wastegate and manifold flow suck)

 

thanks a lot I'll make sure to read this when I start throwing it al together.

 

i heard you had to definately take your distributor apart, and weld the centrifugal advance shut, so that you wont run the risk of getting detonation, but dont even start it without at least disconnecting the hoses

 

got any quick fixs on mycarbon seized turbo?

 

Not true about the advance.The stock TII engines run a standard timing advance,just like regular engines.The only time they retard timing is when the knock sensor is triggered.If your tuning is proper and you dont run sh*t gas or abuse the engine,theres nothing wrong with the stock timing.Its all about the tuning.
You can start the engine and drive it around lightly without ANY fear of detonation.Unless you spool up the turbo,its just operating under vacuum,like every N/A car in the world.Under boost you may have to play with the timing a little.Usually detonation is a result of poor mixture or high intake temps,so retarding the ignition is not always the correct course of action.It may reduce the detonation,but it also reduces power.