Turbo II engine in an 81 - lining up the shifter
03-30-05, 12:11 PM
#1
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Turbo II engine in an 81 - lining up the shifter
YES! I know how to search, but I want info about my specific situation.
-I want to use a 81 chassis, (one more year to no emissions!)
-85 gsl-se crossmember.
-88 t2 tranny
-s4 or s5 t2 jdm engine
If I put the 85 gsl-se front cover on the t2 engine will the t2 tranny shifter location line up with the stock gsl-se one?
Do any modifications need to be made to the front cover? Oil lines? or is that only on 12a front covers?
If I don't put on the 85 front cover, then I need to modify the 88 t2 tranny, correct?
Either way I need a custom driveshaft, correct?
Thank You,
Nick
-I want to use a 81 chassis, (one more year to no emissions!)
-85 gsl-se crossmember.
-88 t2 tranny
-s4 or s5 t2 jdm engine
If I put the 85 gsl-se front cover on the t2 engine will the t2 tranny shifter location line up with the stock gsl-se one?
Do any modifications need to be made to the front cover? Oil lines? or is that only on 12a front covers?
If I don't put on the 85 front cover, then I need to modify the 88 t2 tranny, correct?
Either way I need a custom driveshaft, correct?
Thank You,
Nick
03-30-05, 05:12 PM
#3
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I'm not sure exactly how to do it, but I've heard that you can remove the shifter assy from the 2nd gen tranny and replace it with the one from the 1st gen so you have no issues with lining it up.
Wondering about the splines on the tranny being different from the 1st gen. anyone know?
Wondering about the splines on the tranny being different from the 1st gen. anyone know?
03-30-05, 05:34 PM
#4
FD > FB > FC
the out put shaft splines on the TII are different from the 1st gen tranny. You will need to have a custom driveshaft made
Last edited by hornbm; 03-30-05 at 06:03 PM.
03-30-05, 08:02 PM
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A long time ago back when this was just a little forum I did a write up on how to mod the T2 trans to fit the FB body. In short it's pretty simple. Cut the t2 shifter rod to fit the FB shifter housing (if I remember right you cut off about a inch) then redrill the hole for the spring pin. You'll also have to shorten the T2 shift tube a bit. The FB shifter housing bolts right to the T2 trans.
My old thread might still be in archives it was something like (I just put a T2 trans in my FB, here's how you do it)
good luck
My old thread might still be in archives it was something like (I just put a T2 trans in my FB, here's how you do it)
good luck
03-30-05, 09:53 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by setzep
A long time ago back when this was just a little forum I did a write up on how to mod the T2 trans to fit the FB body. In short it's pretty simple. Cut the t2 shifter rod to fit the FB shifter housing (if I remember right you cut off about a inch) then redrill the hole for the spring pin. You'll also have to shorten the T2 shift tube a bit. The FB shifter housing bolts right to the T2 trans.
My old thread might still be in archives it was something like (I just put a T2 trans in my FB, here's how you do it)
good luck
My old thread might still be in archives it was something like (I just put a T2 trans in my FB, here's how you do it)
good luck
03-30-05, 10:30 PM
#7
FB+FC=F-ME
Heres the simple of it,I wont get into driveshaft or rearend flanges.........
Remove the shift selector box and tailcone of the TII box.
Withdraw the shift selector shaft.
Cut one inch off the end of the shaft and drill a new rollpin hole one inch up from the original hole.
Cut one inch off the selector shaft tube in the middle and join the 2 ends with a piece of heater hose and clamps,or weld it back up.
Re-install the selector shaft and tailcone.
Install the tube and an 81-85 shift selector box onto the TII tailcone.
The shifter is now one inch closer to the bellhousing and should shift normally.
Remove the shift selector box and tailcone of the TII box.
Withdraw the shift selector shaft.
Cut one inch off the end of the shaft and drill a new rollpin hole one inch up from the original hole.
Cut one inch off the selector shaft tube in the middle and join the 2 ends with a piece of heater hose and clamps,or weld it back up.
Re-install the selector shaft and tailcone.
Install the tube and an 81-85 shift selector box onto the TII tailcone.
The shifter is now one inch closer to the bellhousing and should shift normally.
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03-30-05, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Heres the simple of it,I wont get into driveshaft or rearend flanges.........
Remove the shift selector box and tailcone of the TII box.
Withdraw the shift selector shaft.
Cut one inch off the end of the shaft and drill a new rollpin hole one inch up from the original hole.
Cut one inch off the selector shaft tube in the middle and join the 2 ends with a piece of heater hose and clamps,or weld it back up.
Re-install the selector shaft and tailcone.
Install the tube and an 81-85 shift selector box onto the TII tailcone.
The shifter is now one inch closer to the bellhousing and should shift normally.
Remove the shift selector box and tailcone of the TII box.
Withdraw the shift selector shaft.
Cut one inch off the end of the shaft and drill a new rollpin hole one inch up from the original hole.
Cut one inch off the selector shaft tube in the middle and join the 2 ends with a piece of heater hose and clamps,or weld it back up.
Re-install the selector shaft and tailcone.
Install the tube and an 81-85 shift selector box onto the TII tailcone.
The shifter is now one inch closer to the bellhousing and should shift normally.
Can you tell me the specs or measurements for the driveshaft and where to get it if possible 
Thanks im in the middle of doing this and this is one of the couple things i have to get
03-30-05, 11:48 PM
#9
FB+FC=F-ME
Oh man,its been 4-5 years since I put that trans/driveline in.I actually put the TII box in before the TII engine swap......I believe its about 42 inches from tip to tip,but Im not 100% sure.Plus, I did it with a custom machined TII rearend yoke,so that makes my driveline length kinda unique to my situation.
The front of the driveline was spec'ed from a Ford Courior I remember that.I just gave the driveline shop a stock TII driveline,the rearend yoke and my desired dimensions and had them handle it.He had to make it from scratch because of a lack of metric tubing to "stretch" the stock TII driveshaft.It was about 175 bucks and has been totally reliable,plus its greasable.
The front of the driveline was spec'ed from a Ford Courior I remember that.I just gave the driveline shop a stock TII driveline,the rearend yoke and my desired dimensions and had them handle it.He had to make it from scratch because of a lack of metric tubing to "stretch" the stock TII driveshaft.It was about 175 bucks and has been totally reliable,plus its greasable.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 03-30-05 at 11:52 PM.
03-31-05, 08:28 PM
#10
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Hey Steve, was it exactly 1"? IIRC it was a little off from that.
I just finished rebuilding my T2 trans... BOY was that fun.. Really wished I had the special service tools to remove the old bearing from the shafts. It was a learning experience though and hopefully I'll have a smooth as butter trans this summer.
I just finished rebuilding my T2 trans... BOY was that fun.. Really wished I had the special service tools to remove the old bearing from the shafts. It was a learning experience though and hopefully I'll have a smooth as butter trans this summer.
03-31-05, 08:43 PM
#11
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0&page=1&pp=15
Drill the hole 3cm down from the stock one.
section out 2cm from the shift rod tube.
I wish the pic's were still there because they are long gone on my end.
Drill the hole 3cm down from the stock one.
section out 2cm from the shift rod tube.
I wish the pic's were still there because they are long gone on my end.
03-31-05, 09:25 PM
#12
FB+FC=F-ME
Yea, 3CM is about 1.125.....somewhere in the range.Again,it was late 2000 when I put the TII trans in my car,back when I was running my old 13B 4 port and Yaw carb.The memory goes first you know.........Ill be thirty soon,so Im gettin' a bit senile!
04-02-05, 10:37 PM
#15
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do you HAVE to do this mod or no cause i honestly just wanna use the front 12a plate on the t2 and slide the ****** in fab the tranny mounts and bolt. and yes where did you get the driveshaft and how much
04-02-05, 10:50 PM
#16
RX-7 Alumni
When I did my swap I confirmed all of setzep's numbers and they came out exactly right. I'll repost the final numbers here but there are many more pics in my Chronicles of a TII Swap thread.
T2 Shifter Tube Modification
Goal is to shorten the tube by 2 cm and keep the formed rubber seals on ends intact.
Recommended procedure:
1) Cut ~2cm from center of tube. When cutting, allow for weld tolerances.
2) Weld tube back together, heat soak rubber seal ends to prevent melting.
Note: A little shorter on rod length is better than too long.
Shifter Rod Modification
Goal is to move the hole at the end of the rod 3 cm closer to the center of the rod, then remove 3 cm from the end of the rod (see attached drawing).
Very Important: The radial position of the new hole MUST be the same as the existing hole.
Note: This modification is to be performed on the stock S4 shifter rod. The tapping of the hole is to allow use of the FB bolt used on the FB shifter rod. Yes you could do this another way using a dowel pin.
Recommended procedure:
1) Drill new hole 3 cm closer to center of rod from existing hole position--maintain existing radial position of hole. Use 5 mm or #9 drill.
2) Tap hole with 6 mm X 1.0 tap.
3) Drill approximately half of hole depth with 6 mm or #13 drill to allow for bolt shoulder.
4) Cut 3 cm from end of rod.
Then just reassemble the tranny and you're good to go. Just make sure you can shift into ALL the gears before you put it back in the car.
Scott
T2 Shifter Tube Modification
Goal is to shorten the tube by 2 cm and keep the formed rubber seals on ends intact.
Recommended procedure:
1) Cut ~2cm from center of tube. When cutting, allow for weld tolerances.
2) Weld tube back together, heat soak rubber seal ends to prevent melting.
Note: A little shorter on rod length is better than too long.
Shifter Rod Modification
Goal is to move the hole at the end of the rod 3 cm closer to the center of the rod, then remove 3 cm from the end of the rod (see attached drawing).
Very Important: The radial position of the new hole MUST be the same as the existing hole.
Note: This modification is to be performed on the stock S4 shifter rod. The tapping of the hole is to allow use of the FB bolt used on the FB shifter rod. Yes you could do this another way using a dowel pin.
Recommended procedure:
1) Drill new hole 3 cm closer to center of rod from existing hole position--maintain existing radial position of hole. Use 5 mm or #9 drill.
2) Tap hole with 6 mm X 1.0 tap.
3) Drill approximately half of hole depth with 6 mm or #13 drill to allow for bolt shoulder.
4) Cut 3 cm from end of rod.
Then just reassemble the tranny and you're good to go. Just make sure you can shift into ALL the gears before you put it back in the car.
Scott
04-03-05, 11:09 AM
#17
FB+FC=F-ME
I did the rollpin,it worked fine.And yes,the radial position of the hole it CRITICAL!!Surprisingly,the rod drilled with little trouble.I expected it to be hard as hell.If you cant weld,a length of heater hose and a couple small clamps work fine to join/seal the 2 ends of the shaft's tube.
Renegade,if you use a 12A front plate,you wont be able to bolt up the TII oil metering pump.If you run premix,then its not an issue,but for stock oil metering the SE and 2nd gen engines need the 4 tube OMP.The trans mount is easy,just grind a little off the edges of the stock 1st gen mount and drill a couple holes to match up with the TII tranny.Worked fine for me with minimal work.The actual crossmember has to be lowered down about 1" to keep the larger TII box off the tunnel.I used some aluminum cylinders about the same size/shape as a couple average 3/8 drive sockets.The driveline was custom made to match the TII trans output and my custom modded TII rearend yoke.I had a local driveline shop make it,cost about 175 bucks.
Renegade,if you use a 12A front plate,you wont be able to bolt up the TII oil metering pump.If you run premix,then its not an issue,but for stock oil metering the SE and 2nd gen engines need the 4 tube OMP.The trans mount is easy,just grind a little off the edges of the stock 1st gen mount and drill a couple holes to match up with the TII tranny.Worked fine for me with minimal work.The actual crossmember has to be lowered down about 1" to keep the larger TII box off the tunnel.I used some aluminum cylinders about the same size/shape as a couple average 3/8 drive sockets.The driveline was custom made to match the TII trans output and my custom modded TII rearend yoke.I had a local driveline shop make it,cost about 175 bucks.
04-03-05, 01:03 PM
#19
FB+FC=F-ME
SE oilpan and SE front plate to get the motor mounted.
If your gonna run a S5 engine and keep the stock ECU,youll have to adress the electric oil metering pump issue.The S5 ECU wont work without the electric OMP and the S5 OMP wont bolt to an SE cover like the S4 mechanical OMP.I had my SE cover built up and machined to accept the S5 OMP,them moved the turbo oil drain forward to the very corner edge of the cover.It all worked quite well,but required farming out the aluminum Heli-arc work to a shop,about $175.
The alternative is to run a standalone ECU,then you can run the S4 OMP or pre-mix.Or a less popular alternative (but it does work) is keep the S5 ECU/controls,block off the OMP pad,but keep the OMP plugged in electronically and tie it off to the side,then run premix in the tank.
If your gonna run a S5 engine and keep the stock ECU,youll have to adress the electric oil metering pump issue.The S5 ECU wont work without the electric OMP and the S5 OMP wont bolt to an SE cover like the S4 mechanical OMP.I had my SE cover built up and machined to accept the S5 OMP,them moved the turbo oil drain forward to the very corner edge of the cover.It all worked quite well,but required farming out the aluminum Heli-arc work to a shop,about $175.
The alternative is to run a standalone ECU,then you can run the S4 OMP or pre-mix.Or a less popular alternative (but it does work) is keep the S5 ECU/controls,block off the OMP pad,but keep the OMP plugged in electronically and tie it off to the side,then run premix in the tank.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 04-03-05 at 01:05 PM.
04-03-05, 03:30 PM
#21
RX-7 Alumni
Originally Posted by renagade_rotary
im using the tII ecu and isnt the se oil pan the same as the gsl
04-03-05, 05:08 PM
#23
FB+FC=F-ME
Couple thousand or less used.A standalone isnt a minor thing.Its a complete brain swap/re-program for your engine.
The trick is tuning it.The computor is useless until its told what its running and how to run it.Only way to do that is get it on a dyno and get a laptop plugged in,thats more $$........or find someone whos running the EXACT same engine specs/mods as you, and beg them to burn you a copy of their run program.
Thats why running the stock ECU isnt so bad.Its all programed,ready to run and its actually capable of handling quite a few mods if you remain within its limits and dont screw anything up.Its just not as clean or simple as a finished standalone ECU conversion.
Renegade,yes youll need the SE oilpan since the 13B is longer than the 12A.And if your running the stock S5 ECU,youve got some decisions to make about your ECU/OMP......
The trick is tuning it.The computor is useless until its told what its running and how to run it.Only way to do that is get it on a dyno and get a laptop plugged in,thats more $$........or find someone whos running the EXACT same engine specs/mods as you, and beg them to burn you a copy of their run program.
Thats why running the stock ECU isnt so bad.Its all programed,ready to run and its actually capable of handling quite a few mods if you remain within its limits and dont screw anything up.Its just not as clean or simple as a finished standalone ECU conversion.
Renegade,yes youll need the SE oilpan since the 13B is longer than the 12A.And if your running the stock S5 ECU,youve got some decisions to make about your ECU/OMP......
Last edited by steve84GS TII; 04-03-05 at 05:13 PM.
04-03-05, 05:43 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Rex4Life
No the SE oil pan fits on a 13b engine while the GSL is a 12a--so it's not even close.
