lovehate

so ive been tuning my weber. here is my setup

series 4 13b.
weber 48dco.
no emissions removed 5-6th port sleeves.
gsl-se fuel lines (bigger)
gsl-se fuel pump
holly FPR with gauge.
stock ignition.
rb header, presilencer to a magnaflow.
autometer phantom af gauge.

anyway heres my jetting in my weber

main jets- 185
air bleeds- 220
etube- f11
pump jets- 55
idle jets- 65(f9?, im not sure they just say 65 and they had the same size side hole as the 60f9 i was using.)

anyway im running a little rich still but from what i recall with a weber you want a rotary to run a little rich..

heres a little diagram of where my af gauge is under different circumstances
tell me what you guys think.

COLD IDLE:


WARM IDLE:


WOT:


does that seem normal?

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

seems pretty normal. from what ive read rotaries like to idle around 12:1-13:1 and make the best power (N/A) just a little on the richer side of stoich. it would be a little easier to see what your a/f's are w/ some actual #'s as apposed to just a sweeping guage. just my $.02

84stock

iTrader: (5)

I'd suggest a wideband. i just upgraded from a narrowband, it tells you soooo much!! I thought my carb was dialed in well, and it was close. So much closer now though. Idle 14.0, mild accel 13.0 and wot spikes at 10.6 right away (from the accelerator pump shot) then hold low to mid 11's all the way to 8500. That's with the reliable edelbrock 650. Can't wait to get my holley 870 dialed in.

lovehate

any suggestions on a reliable affordable (do those 2 go hand and hand?, lol) wideband setup?

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

you can get AEM EUGO's for bout $250 on ebay

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

main and air jet combo is wrong. It will make it rich til mid-range but lean on top end. Air bleeds must be smaller than main. Use 50 increments meaning if you use 150 air, then main jet is 200.

To eliminate bogging during transition to main at 3K rpm, use larger idle jet.

Venturies???? what do size do you have

lovehate

hey wacky, im not sure what size they are, im sure they are whatever comes factory in a 48DCO, is there an easy way to check?

and im already running rich, if i lowered my air bleeds would i be running richer?
im not leaning out at all on the top end, it stays right between stoich and rich up to 8k at wot.

my bog is minimal, hot half as bad as it used to be, i was thinking of trying some 65f11's.

lovehate

****, this thread died fast. no response wacky?

MosesX605

Wouldn't using the high-pressure GSL-SE pump with a Holley reg be a recipe for disaster? That thing is kicking out several times over the PSI that you want, and I'd think that it'd burn out from being choked down that much.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1 on that. Webers/Delortos only need about 2.5 to 3 psi anything more just floods the carb out. The Holley regulator may keep it down but like moses says it will work the pump pretty good.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

A/F ratio is a junk. I used it many years ago to "amuse myself when driving at night. " Dont rely on the specs of a off-the-shelf item (there are some exception of course) as most of them are just for start up. You need to find out what they are and play with different combo to find what is best for your engine.

rotaryengineering

Your jetting combination will work fine, but from my experience I would go with this combination on a Stock 6-Port with the sleeves removed.

Recommendations:
Choke - 40mm
Main Jets - 190
Air Corrector - 200
Emulsion Tube - F11 works fine
Pump Jets - 45
Idle Jets - 65F9 will work fine


I ran a setup similar to this on a 85 6-port for several years with no problems. The only other recommendation I would make is using a return style regulator so you don't burn up the pump. You can buy a cheap Carter pump from Summit or Jegs, and don't even need to use a regulator. I think I paid 40 or 50 bucks a couple of years ago. If you want the part number I can get off the shelf later tonight.

Good Luck and have fun with your setup.