mtfhod

I've been told a few things about my new (to-me) car, and I was hoping to have some experts (or, at least some loud opinions) help define the "true-false" dichotomy of these details.

Um, again, I have 1985 RX7 with...two more letters at the end I can't recall... (too much time looking at the forums. It's the 12A engine, etc., 220,000 miles but it was rebuilt at 140,000 by the previous owner.)

1) Whereas a regular manual engine one would be shifting at about 3000rpm, one shifts this kind of engine at 4000rpm?

2) It's not irregular or a bad sign for this engine to go through almost as much oil as gas.

3) You need to warm this engine up for at least two minutes before going anywhere.

4) This car is happiest making long, fast trips, and never "just to the store."

5) It is impossible to find a rear-hatch lock.

OK, number 5 has been proven fairly true at this point, but the rest I don't want to be wrong about.

Your stories, help, and information is greatly appreciated!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

1. You shift whenever you feel the need, as long as it doesn't bog. I could shift with the OER at 2200rpm and no problems.

2. If you go through that much oil, I would pull the engine and hit the PO over the head with it! You shouldn't be sucking down oil, but it will use some sparingly. Just keep an eye on the levels, and check it once a week.

3. Bust it off and drive on. I generally wait 20-30 seconds to "get the blood flowing", but that is just one of my quirks. As long as you don't go redlining it the second it turns over and let it warm up completely you should be good.

4. It is still a car. One thing that comes to mind is letting it get completely warmed up before shutting it off. If you don't they will tend to flood, and deflooding is a fun little process.

5. For sale section! I just got rid of a lock set a few months back.

Ctrl

1) 4k is babying it too much
2) For me it's about 1L of oil every 2 tanks.
3) Practical advice for any engine, not just rotary.
4) I'll drive mine short distances, but will make sure it hit operating temps before shutdown.
5) Do you need the striker than tends to get loose/lost? I have one if you need it.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

1. i usually shift between 2500-3500, if you're not trying to go fast....
2. it should use about a quart between oil changes, give or take
3. not in CA, 30seconds is good, then drive easy until its warmed up
4. yeah, these are really good road cars, 1,000mile+ trip is not a big deal, you just have to watch fro things like tires, and belts and stuff
5. easy to find, buy a new one, hard to pay for...

djessence

2500-3500 rpm? thats really babying it. It seems these cars like to see redline every now and then (that being around 7000). Helps to reduce the carbon build up or something nifty like that. But that doesnt mean you have to redline every shift, just a nice hard drive every now and then is fun and good lol

Oil is injected into the engine and burned to lubricate the internals. So you will go through oil. There are a number of mods you can do to change this, do a search about OMP oil metering pump and a ton of info pops up. Alot of hoses can become caked in oil and fail, check your engine bay for engine leaks and replce any hoses that look like theyve had some on there for quite awhile

Good to let it warm up so you are not stressing parts as in any engine. These its good to let it warm up a bit more so the oil isnt like sludge trying to be injected. Specially since im guessing it gets fairly cold in denver. But same as any car right...

Depending on what type of hatch thing ur looking for try black dragon (think its blackdragon.com)

Search for trochoid in search and download the FSM from his link.

Good to just keep reading random threads that may have nothing to do with your problems, but you learn alot about the cars. read through the faqs, ton of good info in there as well