holley blue pumps are for carbs only, they wont work on efi cars, u need a walbro inline 255lph pump

 

when I asked about the holley blue, I was talking about eliminating the fuel injection and using a delorto carb
as far as the cornering abilities between my car and his, I cant argue at all, the 7 handles better in its stock form, let alone with the racing beat suspension package I have on my gsl, but unfortunately , there arent enough curves around here to make it worth it :[ lots of long straights, and LOTS of stop signs

 

My buddy also has a second gen Supra. I kick his butt on a regular basis.

 

Ask 1984se, that's exactly what he's got in his race car, except I think on top of it all the 13B is streetported.

1000 posts! w00t!

 

Stock se 13b with rb header system and cone filter will get you approx 165hp. You can send your stock computer out to have it reprogrammed and remap your air flow meter for gain.
Remember the trick is to free up hp.This is done by putting a light weight steel flywheel to
reduce inertia. Also eliminating the fan clutch and running an electric fan helps. Do not
recommend underdrive pulleys for the street because they do not allow the wp to turn fast enough and they are for only running extreme rpm's anyways. rx7doctor

 

I was under the impression that you could NOT reprogam the GSL-SE ecu? Do you know of a place that does do it?

 

in a straight line? or just curves and corners??? is his N/A or turbo
either way, please shoot me all the details about your car. Mind if I copy what you did, hehe

 

exactly what is the difference in 12a and 13b exhausts? is it the flange where it bolts to the engine, tube diameter? something even more complicated?

 

I've got all the mentioned mods on my stockport SE, I'd be very interested in reprogramming the ECU for more fuel if possible.

 

The SE engines need more AIR, not fuel.

 

What I did to mine is already in posted in this thread, and yes I kick his butt in a straight line. As for the 13b, mine is a 6 port. There are however 4 port 13b's. 12a = carbed less horse+torque, 13b = EGI more horse+torque. That is however stock. From what I understand 12a can be ported more than a 13b 6 port. Street port, again, from what I understand is all you can do with a 6 port 13b. Although, the possiblities are numerous if you block off two of the ports. Again this is from my understanding, I have not ported mine.

 

I dont want to port one, call me lazy, call me cheap, call me paranoid, call me susan if youl ike, but I dont want to mess with the internals

 

If all you care about is quarter mile times, get another car. You'll go a lot faster for a lot less with an late80s-early90s mustang.

 

There isn't one on 1st gens, other than the exhaust manifold being a tad larger on the 13b due to the ehaust ports being farther apart/larger. Everything from the 1st pre-cat back to the muffler is identical.

 

True, that AFM is a PITA...

But still being able to reprogam the ECU would be nice...

 

If you wanna beat your friends supra, or most any other ricer. Dont get an SE or any other NA rx-7, SAve up for a 13bt and swap that in your first gen or just go and get a t2. Get exhaust and a boost controller and you will tear your friend a new one. My 13bt swapped FB puts down around 250 RWHP at 15 PSI. The car has been dailr driven for 3 years and is very reliable. I have dyno sheets of 10 psi --> 220 RWHP and 245 tourqe. Save up and get t2 or swap the t2 engine in teh 1st gen. Its absolutely the best bang for the buck. You could do the engine swap for under 3k.

CJG

 

any chance of that holding up with camaros and firebirds? there are a bunch of them around here driven by guys with REAL attitudes
and WHAT is with all the cavaliers with park benches on the back

 

For those interested in reprogramming your ecu, i will get the info posted tonight when i get
back from work. rx7doctor

 

Cool!

 

Are you kidding? unless its a new z06 vette, or a really built v8 camero/firebird with more than 400 or so, a 280 RWHP fb will tear it. I mean im not saying you would be invinceable, but a bt swapped fb with a few things done, will run low 13's with an average driver pretty easily. Add a good rear end and slicks/wide tires --->12's. I have a stock s4 crate engine with a s5 turbo, remapped STOCK ecu, 680cc secondarys and a volvo FMIC, 2.5 exhaust. I can rip about 95% of the local street driven performance cars. I have beat wrx's, i think i could beat sti's on the highway (their AWD 60 foot times are too fast for me), mulitple b18 swapped civics, most t2's and lightly modded fd's, etc. The 13bt swapped fb's only weight around 2400. and its pretty easy to make 220-300 RWHP.

CJG

 

my current car is not worth putting that kind of work into, the outside is rust free, but the undercarriage is pretty bad.... so if I go with the swap it would still have to be in another car, but now it will be a LOT cheaper since I can get one with a decent body that doesnt run.
so I shouldnt use an SE? dont they have the best suspension and brakes?

 

Yup... That they do

 

Brakes are a bit larger on the SE, and STOCK suspension is better on the SE.

But are you really planning on running 20+ yr old shocks and springs? If so, it doesn't really matter whether it is (was) SE or otherwise... It's gonna be worn out stock stuff.

Last I remember, performance springs are the same for all year and trim 1st gens... And shocks are only different for SA's...

 

so why should I NOT get an SE? I'm confused, but as you guys know, I'm always confused

 

If you are planning to replace everything and upgrade those parts, there is not much reason to buy an SE. Reasons not to:
1. Could be more difficult to find or more expensive.
2. If you plan to lower the car, the mount points on an earlier model may be better.
3. All SE have sunfoof (if you want a sunroof then disregard this reason)
4. All SE have electric windows which are a bad circuit design, add weight, and unnecessary in such a small car.

Just find a car with the best condition body regardless of model.