tried DLIDFIS, only worked for a moment
05-19-08, 08:11 PM
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What could possibly go wr
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tried DLIDFIS, only worked for a moment
so i set up DLIDFIS as described in jeff20b writeup, all coils had battery voltage, and all ignitors had battery voltage, I started the engine, it took a moment to catch, but it went, it sounded deep in tone compared top the stock ignition that i am stuck with since my msd died, and was very smooth, but, the tack was not working, and the car would not idle, and died, I retested voltage, and found all to be good except for the igniter on the coil going to rotor 2, its - terminal, only had like 2 volts, i swapped the igniter for another, good one(previously used on the dizzy for leading), voltage was there, and the car wouldn't start. all voltages are correct, i cant figure out whats up. one part of jeff20b's writeup i am not understanding is
"DO NOT try to use the stock harness as-is to run the Trailing ignitor output alongside the Leading pickup signal because it won't work! The black w/ white stripe wire is shared between the Leading and Trailing T connectors. They were connected together so Mazda could save a few cents per harness by reducing the amount of wires in it running over to the coils (it also saves weight and is less wear on the connections when the engine vibrates). Hey, it works great for a stock single fire system, but don't use it for DLIDFIS. That's why I recommend building a completely new harness for the Trailing ignitor and using a shielded cable for the Leading pickup. Gutting the stock harness to use the T connectors on both Leading ignitors is ok to do too. But you could always keep the stock harness intact if you ever sell the car and want to keep the DLIDFIS system for another rotary."
so i have it wired up like wackyracer's post im lazy to write,
so what goes on "behind the scenes" i cant find any further info on this,
-so modified igniter goes on to dizzy where the stock leading one was
-actual igniter's that are connected to modified one connect to the coils, B to positive, C to negative
- power is supplied to all coils through power taken from the stock wire harness, -tailing igniter is still in place on the dizzy, and yg wire that triggers coils/works tack still goes to the tailing coil.
all wires have been double checked, and polarity is correct, what did I do wrong
?
"DO NOT try to use the stock harness as-is to run the Trailing ignitor output alongside the Leading pickup signal because it won't work! The black w/ white stripe wire is shared between the Leading and Trailing T connectors. They were connected together so Mazda could save a few cents per harness by reducing the amount of wires in it running over to the coils (it also saves weight and is less wear on the connections when the engine vibrates). Hey, it works great for a stock single fire system, but don't use it for DLIDFIS. That's why I recommend building a completely new harness for the Trailing ignitor and using a shielded cable for the Leading pickup. Gutting the stock harness to use the T connectors on both Leading ignitors is ok to do too. But you could always keep the stock harness intact if you ever sell the car and want to keep the DLIDFIS system for another rotary."
so i have it wired up like wackyracer's post im lazy to write,
so what goes on "behind the scenes" i cant find any further info on this,
-so modified igniter goes on to dizzy where the stock leading one was
-actual igniter's that are connected to modified one connect to the coils, B to positive, C to negative
- power is supplied to all coils through power taken from the stock wire harness, -tailing igniter is still in place on the dizzy, and yg wire that triggers coils/works tack still goes to the tailing coil.
all wires have been double checked, and polarity is correct, what did I do wrong
?
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