Transmission stuck in 3rd
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Transmission stuck in 3rd
Drives fine in third, with no bad tranny noises. When pulling back on the shifter, a sharp pulsing can be felt, but it will not move out of 3rd. I'll be dropping the transmission this weekend to take a look. If anyone has any thoughts, let me know.
I'm running a turbo 13B, so the loads are obviously much higher than stock, although it doesn't see much harsh treatment. I am in the process of collecting TII hardware to swap in, but that job requires some tunnel and console modification to convert the SA to FB configuration. I'd hoped to leave that job until winter if possible.
I'm running a turbo 13B, so the loads are obviously much higher than stock, although it doesn't see much harsh treatment. I am in the process of collecting TII hardware to swap in, but that job requires some tunnel and console modification to convert the SA to FB configuration. I'd hoped to leave that job until winter if possible.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I know a TII tranny can be modified to move the shifter to the stock FB position, but the SA is another few inches farther forward yet. Do you know if the TII can be easily modified to that extent? I'll know better when I sit them side by side to do a comparison, but at this point I'm expecting to modify the tunnel to FB configuration, and swap in an FB console.
According to a fellow on the 1st gen mailing list, sticking in gear is a not-uncommon problem in earlier transmissions. Apparently the problem is due to excessive wear on the shifter forks, allowing them to overshoot the stops, and allow keys to pop out of position. I'll have mine apart in the next day or two, and will report back.
For those interested in adapting different transmission tailstocks, here's a great site I found with lots of pics:
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/trans/trans.html
According to a fellow on the 1st gen mailing list, sticking in gear is a not-uncommon problem in earlier transmissions. Apparently the problem is due to excessive wear on the shifter forks, allowing them to overshoot the stops, and allow keys to pop out of position. I'll have mine apart in the next day or two, and will report back.
For those interested in adapting different transmission tailstocks, here's a great site I found with lots of pics:
http://www.geocities.com/izzmus/trans/trans.html
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by renns
Apparently the problem is due to excessive wear on the shifter forks, allowing them to overshoot the stops, and allow keys to pop out of position.
#5
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
The RX-4 shifter is in the exact same position as an SA. The only real difference between '81-'83 and T2 shifters are a bolt in the earlier ones and a roll pin in the later ones.
I assume the roll pin is more difficult to remove, because I haven't had to remove one from that spot yet, but the new hole you must drill in the shifter rod (about 4 inches forward) will be a lot easier because you will not have to countersink part of it to a larger diameter, nor will you have to cut threads in it. In other words, if you can get through the initial anoyance of actually removing the roll pin, the rest of the swap will turn out a lot easier than on a 1st gen tranny.
Don't swap to the FB console stuff unless you really want to go through the extra effort. If you can handle a MegaSquirt, you can handle a shifter housing relocation job like this.
I assume the roll pin is more difficult to remove, because I haven't had to remove one from that spot yet, but the new hole you must drill in the shifter rod (about 4 inches forward) will be a lot easier because you will not have to countersink part of it to a larger diameter, nor will you have to cut threads in it. In other words, if you can get through the initial anoyance of actually removing the roll pin, the rest of the swap will turn out a lot easier than on a 1st gen tranny.
Don't swap to the FB console stuff unless you really want to go through the extra effort. If you can handle a MegaSquirt, you can handle a shifter housing relocation job like this.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Here's the update:
Tranny is out, and disassembled on the bench. One of the keys on the synchro assembly (if I'm using the right terms) had popped up partially out of place, preventing disengagement of 3rd.
Here's the pic of the offending party:
It's easy enough now to pop it back together, but what's the cause?? Is there anything that can be done to prevent this key popping episode in the future? Obviously driving style is one, as I was running through the gears agressively at the time and may have pushed harder than normal entering 3rd. That said, I'd hate to have to drive gently for the rest of the season!
Upon disassembly I noticed one of the front shim washers was damaged. That seemed rather odd, as it should be pressed up against the outer race, which is (or should be) static relative to the bellhousing. Any thoughts on that oddity? There were two of these washers in that location, each 0.10mm thick. The second one showed no damage.
Shim pic:
As for TII tranny fitment, that's not quite so easy as has been previously described. I'll start a new thread for that one.
Thanks to all for the help.
Tranny is out, and disassembled on the bench. One of the keys on the synchro assembly (if I'm using the right terms) had popped up partially out of place, preventing disengagement of 3rd.
Here's the pic of the offending party:
It's easy enough now to pop it back together, but what's the cause?? Is there anything that can be done to prevent this key popping episode in the future? Obviously driving style is one, as I was running through the gears agressively at the time and may have pushed harder than normal entering 3rd. That said, I'd hate to have to drive gently for the rest of the season!
Upon disassembly I noticed one of the front shim washers was damaged. That seemed rather odd, as it should be pressed up against the outer race, which is (or should be) static relative to the bellhousing. Any thoughts on that oddity? There were two of these washers in that location, each 0.10mm thick. The second one showed no damage.
Shim pic:
As for TII tranny fitment, that's not quite so easy as has been previously described. I'll start a new thread for that one.
Thanks to all for the help.
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REX7&Z32TT
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09-09-15 05:16 AM