Transmission position
07-27-16, 10:56 PM
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Transmission position
I am currently putting a rotary engine in a 1985 GSL that once had a LS1. To do that both transmission mount locations are cut out. I am trying to build a new mount for the transmission. The problem I am running into is getting the transmission into the right location to build the mount. Does anyone know a good reference point for getting the transmission into the correct location prior to mocking up the mount?
07-27-16, 11:15 PM
#2
Old [Sch|F]ool
Does the FSM have data points in the body section?
Getting the fore-aft distance should be simple, side-side a little more complex, up-down... hmm. I'd like to say that the top of the shift tower is about even with/slightly below the shifter hole in the floor, since I beat my tunnel upwards a bit to make trans changing go a lot faster. (With a Racing Beat exhaust the engine does not tilt!)
Getting the fore-aft distance should be simple, side-side a little more complex, up-down... hmm. I'd like to say that the top of the shift tower is about even with/slightly below the shifter hole in the floor, since I beat my tunnel upwards a bit to make trans changing go a lot faster. (With a Racing Beat exhaust the engine does not tilt!)
Last edited by peejay; 07-27-16 at 11:18 PM.
07-28-16, 08:04 AM
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Does the FSM have data points in the body section?
Getting the fore-aft distance should be simple, side-side a little more complex, up-down... hmm. I'd like to say that the top of the shift tower is about even with/slightly below the shifter hole in the floor, since I beat my tunnel upwards a bit to make trans changing go a lot faster. (With a Racing Beat exhaust the engine does not tilt!)
Getting the fore-aft distance should be simple, side-side a little more complex, up-down... hmm. I'd like to say that the top of the shift tower is about even with/slightly below the shifter hole in the floor, since I beat my tunnel upwards a bit to make trans changing go a lot faster. (With a Racing Beat exhaust the engine does not tilt!)
07-28-16, 10:27 AM
#4
Can't you just install the engine, trans, trans corss member, and driveshaft and then put a jack under the trans and ensure the driveshaft doesn't hit anything. This will let you know where the trans mount need to be welded. You could also cut the trans mounting points from a scrap 1984/1985. Then bolt the trans cross member to the body mounts and weld.
I'm doing something similar to convert my auto 1985 to manual.
I'm doing something similar to convert my auto 1985 to manual.
07-28-16, 12:20 PM
#5
Old [Sch|F]ool
The height of the transmission will be critical for getting U-joint angles correct.
I'll see if I can get a measurement against something tonight.
I'll see if I can get a measurement against something tonight.
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