1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Transistor trick for 2GCDFIS.

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Old 01-04-06, 03:15 PM
  #651  
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Nearly forgot. The 74HC32 (QUAD DUAL INPUT OR Gate) will be replaced with 74HC00 (QUAD DUAL INPUT NAND Gate). This is for you Aus guys that wanted to build one before getting a kit.
Old 01-04-06, 03:24 PM
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Can the old auto-switching circuit be upgraded to the new version?
Old 01-04-06, 03:28 PM
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Yea, I could maybe do a partial kit with the board and components and you could use the box and wiring you have now. The boards will be much better quality as they will be professionally built instead of homebuilt.
Old 01-04-06, 03:43 PM
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Ah, I see. It's not as simple as changing a few parts on the existing board?
Old 01-04-06, 06:08 PM
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Ok Kent , pleease count me in and, by all means, let me know what you need....
Appreciably,
Tom
Old 01-04-06, 07:36 PM
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Thanks Kent, will be getting to work on that in the next few weeks
Old 01-05-06, 01:26 AM
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Frankenrex: Although most of the parts are the same, it would be difficult to modify the current board to the current design. As I said, I'll give you guys that ordered one before a good discount (probably whatever my cost is). There have been a couple ignitor failures reported with the previous design, so I want you guys to be able to upgrade at minimal cost. The newer boards will be higher quality as the PCB will be professionally made.

teejs: I got a freebie with your name on it. This is to replace the one that you bought before and for all your help on the write-up. If you or someone could take some pics during assembly of the new board (to add to the instructions), that would be great.

H4Inf: I will probably post the auction for the kit tonight sometime. I was planning on running it until the end of the month. I don't know when the next one would be as I have to order the parts in quantity to get good pricing. If you knew by the end of the month how many Aus guys would be interested, I can get extra parts and then I could send them to you guys when ready. I was thinking that we could maybe break it up by city for you guys (Melbourne, Sydney, etc.). That way you could distribute locally without reshipping everything. Whatever you want to do is fine by me, though.

Thanks.

Kent
Old 01-05-06, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Frankenrex: Although most of the parts are the same, it would be difficult to modify the current board to the current design. As I said, I'll give you guys that ordered one before a good discount (probably whatever my cost is). There have been a couple ignitor failures reported with the previous design, so I want you guys to be able to upgrade at minimal cost. The newer boards will be higher quality as the PCB will be professionally made.
Understood. I appreciate the upgrade offer, not to mention all your effort on this project!

krw
Old 01-05-06, 09:03 AM
  #659  
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wootage.. this will be good to get a hold of. I will watch the post to make sure that i can get one. Thx very much addict for all your hard work and thx everyone else for testing out and everything else. Great Job on all accounts.
Old 01-05-06, 01:17 PM
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Okay, guys. The auction for the kits is posted.

http://www.rotaryx.com/index.php?a=1002&b=249

I will go ahead and start pming you guys to make sure that everyone knows. Once you bid, let me know before payment. I have another paypal address depending if you use a credit card or not. I meant to do it as a "BUY Now" style auction, but I guess I did something wrong. I do think this way, it won't ask for payment until the end of the auction (1 month). I did 1 month to give people time to know about the auction and to recover some cash after the holidays. Hope this works for you guys.

Thanks.

Kent
Old 01-05-06, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gsl-se addict
Okay, guys. The auction for the kits is posted.

http://www.rotaryx.com/index.php?a=1002&b=249

I will go ahead and start pming you guys to make sure that everyone knows. Once you bid, let me know before payment. I have another paypal address depending if you use a credit card or not. I meant to do it as a "BUY Now" style auction, but I guess I did something wrong. I do think this way, it won't ask for payment until the end of the auction (1 month). I did 1 month to give people time to know about the auction and to recover some cash after the holidays. Hope this works for you guys.

Thanks.

Kent

WOOOOOOT THERE IN!!!

RIGHT WHEN IM BROKE!!!!! hahahahahaha

Last edited by MattG; 01-05-06 at 01:28 PM.
Old 01-05-06, 01:30 PM
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Well, it is just a preorder deal. They won't start shipping for more than 1 month, so you have some time. If you don't have the money by then, just let me know. I will order the extra parts for you and then you can buy it whenever you want.
Old 01-05-06, 01:42 PM
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Awesome!!! I am glad to see that you are using the rotaryx (rotor ebay) I was hoping that it would catch on I think this will really help boost its traffic!

You now have your first bidder!!!! WHEEEEEE! sry got excited!


Just to straighten things out:

This is for the non-assembled units, and there will be a later auction for those. Right?

Last edited by MattG; 01-05-06 at 01:45 PM.
Old 01-05-06, 01:53 PM
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Talking

2nd order!
Old 01-05-06, 02:00 PM
  #665  
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Thanks guys. I should have thought of doing on there sooner (although they haven't been around long). Scott, the owner of the auction site, is very helpful. He even made longer auctions available just for me (used to be limited to 2 weeks). I really think this sale will really help his traffic out. It also helps us by not waiting for GB approval. I really hope it takes off. It should be a real nice place for us to get parts, once we get more sellers in there.

Yes, this is for the unassembled unit. Assembly should be pretty simple. I need to get the details of having someone do assembly, then I will post an auction for those.
Old 01-05-06, 10:45 PM
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fantastic!

Which circuit is this one on auction?

It's getting a little confusing now.. there are a few designs.

-Switching between variable and fixed pulse width
-Locked to variable pulse width
-Autoswitching without minimum pulse width limiter
-Autoswitching with both min and max pulse width limiter

Are there others? lol. Just getting a bit lost here..

Cheers,

Paul.
Old 01-05-06, 11:59 PM
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I know there are write-ups and detailed instructions on how to do this ignition upgrade, but flat out, I don't have the time. I spend a majority of my time at work so I can pay for my car insurance along with other bills, I'm 17, and I'm also not the brightest when it comes to electronics.

I really want, and feel the need to have this ignition upgrade.
I could pay to have someone sell one to me, or create one for me.
If anyone can help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
Old 01-06-06, 12:11 AM
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he is going to create an auction for assembled units
Old 01-06-06, 01:17 AM
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Paul: This is for the latest design (min and max pulse limiters). This should give all the performance gains we got before, but the strain on the ignitor should be greatly reduced. I will likely include parts for a 4ms cut-off, but that can be easily changed as I mentioned earlier if you would like.

skizzle84: As Matt said, I will be posting an auction shortly for the assembled version. I just need to work out the details with the person that will handle the assmbly. The kit should be easy to build, but for those who don't have the time or tools, the assembled version is a good option.
Old 01-06-06, 11:20 AM
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Not to sound immature at all, but my problem is that I can't wait 6 weeks!
Old 01-06-06, 11:25 AM
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Well, how about this: Get yourself a 2nd gen leading coil and do the regular 2GCDFIS. Just do not cut any of the wires as it says in the write-ups. You can install without cutting them. I can guide you through it when you are ready. Then you could install the TT when they are ready. You would already have the coil in place, so the installation would be easy at that point.
Old 01-06-06, 11:47 AM
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which wires do I not cut... the coil ones? when would the TT be ready? thanks for the help!

Last edited by skizzle84; 01-06-06 at 11:53 AM.
Old 01-06-06, 11:56 AM
  #673  
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About 6 weeks. The auction runs for 4 weeks, then another week or 2 to get the parts together an begin shipping. The one listed is for a kit. Should be pretty easy to put together if you have a soldering iron. I will post an auction for the assembled ones soon. They will be a bit more expensive though.

If you have any questions, let me know. I will help out where I can.

Kent

Edit: You don't need to cut any wires on the 2nd gen coil. When you get the coil, pm me and I will guide you through what you need to do.
Old 01-06-06, 04:17 PM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by H4Inf
fantastic!

Which circuit is this one on auction?

It's getting a little confusing now.. there are a few designs.

-Switching between variable and fixed pulse width
-Locked to variable pulse width
-Autoswitching without minimum pulse width limiter
-Autoswitching with both min and max pulse width limiter

Are there others? lol. Just getting a bit lost here..

Cheers,

Paul.
I think we need to urge Kent to use a software release naming schedule.

The first couple of units were definately v0.9
The first group buy would be v1.0
This new board sounds like v2.0

Perhaps Kent would be so kind to elaborate on the differences on the versions for us.
Old 01-06-06, 04:40 PM
  #675  
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That's a good idea. I am sure it is very confusing if you haven't followed everything closely.

The break down is:
- v0.8 This is the variable pulsewidth only. Here the pulse is set by whatever the J-109 puts out. This is the circuit used in the simplified TT write-up.

- v0.9 This is fixed pulse only. Trying to fix the heating issue of the ignitor, I made it so the pulse was just a fixed amount (2.2 ms). The J-109 just told when to fire. The J1-09 had no control of the width. This was found to have better top end than v0.8, but was weaker down low.

- v1.0 These are the first couple circuits that Kentetsu, lovintha7, jayroc, and TurboSE tested. This was v0.8 and v0.9 combined in one package controlled with a manual switch. This was to determine which mode worked better.

- v2.0 Auto-switching version. This was the circuit in the 1st buy. Because v0.8 was found to work better at idle/low rpm, while v0.9 worked better up top, this circuit was developed to get the best of both worlds by automatically switch between the two modes.

- v2.1 Auto-switching with max pulse limiting. A couple failures of the 2nd gen ignitor were reported on the previous designs. This is because the pulse sent by the J-109 is too long. This is a problem for the v0.8 mode and the V.2.0 version, especially at low rpm. The excessive pulsewidth causes the ignitor to go into current limiting mode creating excess heating and shortened ignitor life. This circuit limits the pulse to a max value (currently 4ms). This is similar to how v1.0 limits the minimum pulse in the high rpm. So with this design, the pulse can only range between 2.2ms (min value) and 4ms (max value).


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