Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Mine arrived today. Thank you Kent! This thing is very cool.

Wow, from an idea to reality. I'm just... wow! I can't wait to install it in something. Thanks again!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

$10 for the board, but what about the rest of the components that have to be soldered *onto* the board.

Kent made the boards himself, so he probably did them for half that price, but that's just the board. The kit itself costs much more because of the cost of the components, connectors, wires, and of course the box.

If these get made again, I'd expect the price to be much higher. Kent drilled hundreds of holes and ran traces (which not everyone is equipped to do) which took a lot of his spare time. Getting some things pre-fabbed (like the pcb board) costs a bit more, but makes sense in a group-buy situation.

What amazes me is how popular this thing got so quickly. Many group buys have come and gone, and many ideas come with little or no interest shown. This one... crap man everyone wants one!

Things Jon Thinks Every FB Should Have:
- Rx7Carl/Sterling Carb (and associated fuel sys upgrades, jets)
- RB Exhaust
- This mod with FC Coil, quality wires (like magnacor) and BR8EIX Iridium spark plugs
- FC Fuse box upgrade to replace fusibles
- FD Alternator w/ dual pulley
- An owner who cares/knows enough to buy and install the above

Jon

DJAngelicon

Mine got in yesterday I think because I got off work late and the Apartment Complex have it. Going to pic it up in 20mins soon. I am glad I am up early. I will see and make sure that is the board and no something else.

Rx Seven

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Kent,
I got mine yesterday, every thing looks great. I actually feel like I stole something because this is by far the cheapest performance mod that I've ever gotten for my 7. All it needs is a box with a pictue on it and at least a $100 price tag to fit in with everything else that ive bought or thought about doing to my car. Very well done I cant wait to get it put in.

Also thanks Jeff20B for posting this thread it acoplished.

I cant wait to get started on everything else.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Bonjour, guys. Greetings from Paris. Glad they are working out well for you. I shipped the last batch of circuits out on Tuesday morning on the way to the airport. Everyone got one that I received payment for. kgray: Sorry, you missed out. I put you on the list, but since I didn't have payment/address for you, I couldn't make you one.

After we get everyone through the install stage, we can start figuring out what we want to do in the future. As Zyrano said, we could have boards made professionally. The program that I used for the layout is created by a PCB manufacturer that is based in Oregon. For this sized board with solder mask and silk screen (with holes drilled) runs about $10 or so per board if we can get about 30 units. This way people could solder up their own or some of the guys on the forum could assemble them. The overall price would probably need to be a bit higher (if assembled) to cover shipping costs and the increased board cost. The boards that I did didn't cost much to make (at an expense of labor). Having the boards built would dave a lot of effort. It may be worthwhile doing a kit because the price of parts comes down quite a bit in quantity as well as the fact that the parts aren't expensive, so people would probably pay more for shipping the parts than what the parts are worth if they ordered them on their own. We will set something up. We could even do a kit that included the box and all as well. People would just have to solder (easy with a professional boards) and wire it up.

Glad that you guys appreciate the work that went into these. I think that it was all worthwhile. It is nice to see something go from idea to reality as Jeff pointed out. If any of you have questions/problems with the install, let me know. I will help you out as much as possible.

Kent

DJAngelicon

Ok Got Mine YAY! Looks cool now I just have to run to the Auto Park to get some new wires sparkplugs etc...

Thanks Kent Awsome Work!

DJAngelicon

Trying to figure out what I am going to do this Saturday to start this exciting project. Hehehe.

Hey Kent! Hope you are having a great time over there. Send us some pics hehe

Frankenrex

iTrader: (1)

I got mine a few days ago - forgot to post that.
Now to go hit Ye Olde Junque Yarde for a coil...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm saving this setup for a 1st gen. It seems appropriate since DLIDFIS has always looked to be a bit more difficult in a 1st gen engine bay, what with the coils so far forward and generally less room to work with compared to earlier bays where the coils are alongside the engine allowing the 3rd coil to easily mount to the other two with some simple inexpensive pieces of hardware and no need for custom plug wires and stuff. One solution I've seen others do is to mount the coils and ignitors on a custom coil bracket closer to the engine, which works, but looks somewhat obtrusive, or is usually in the way of the AC compressor. Of course running an MSD was also a possibility because at least I could hook it up to my 2nd gen leading coil, which I already had laying around, but hadn't found a use for yet. But when others started reporting less than ideal results with an MSD sparking a 2nd gen coil, it put the MSD idea back into the background (it's just collecting dust). And since I didn't feel like spending $40+ on an Accel or MSD brand DIS style coil, and wasn't in favor of trying to make room for the big red box, I felt that another solution was needed.

The classic 2GCDFIS would be the best solution spacewise, although a little bit weak. If only there was some way to spark it with the same intensity I observed when testing with my MegaSquirt.

I'm glad the transistor trick became a reality before I got a 1st gen. I'm going to hook it up to a spare dizzy to test fire it today. I'd do a comparison with my MS except it's already installed and nothing remains of my test bench from a few months ago. If things work out, I might be able to temporarily hook the transistor trick up to my REPU for a few test runs. However, I've been so busy lately that I haven't even had a chance to get on the forum for more than a few minutes at a time. Anyway, I'll let you know how it sparks into the air.

Kentetsu

WoooooooooHooooooooooo!!!

Guess who just added a Sterling carb to the mix (thanks Lovintha7)! Man oh Man she sure breathes deeply now! Gonna have to learn to drive this beast all over again now, what a difference in power. This thing dumps so much gas in so fast, I'm pretty sure my old ignition system wouldn't have been able to keep up with it.

Kent, glad to hear that you made the trip okay. Hope everything is going good for you over in the land of good cheese and bad body odor.

Well, I've got to go do my part to increase global warming now (damn, where did I put my asbestos underwear and neck brace?)..........

mR.dnA

iTrader: (1)

Got mine yesterday - just in time for me NOT to be able to install it for a week or two thanks to that whole "work" thing... heh.

It looks fantastic... but the proof is in the pudding - I can't wait to see what my SE thinks of it!

DJAngelicon

Hey guys I have a few question.

1. I am so lost and confuse as where the rotor cap wires go to. Dose the two leading wires go straight to the 2nd gen leading ignitor?

2.The two wires from my trailing that go connected the rotor cap dose those move to a different spot?

3. Which spot on the roto cap will not be used by a spark plug wire?

Zyrano

ok, the two leading wires go to the 2nd gen coil

the original leading wire that went from the cap to the coil is removed, i keep mine in the glove box just in case i need it.

on the distributer cap, you move the t wire to l, t1 to l1, and t2 to l2.

hope that helps...

Alvin

DJAngelicon

Thanks! Alvin

Will doit tomorrow, is there any special Spark Plugs wires I should get because I have the auto part place order me a set of wires for $20. I figure they all should work fine so no need to waste alot of money on uber wires for a stock engine.

Where is the best place to ground the board though. I know the Coil could be a good place but is that the best place? Can I ground it off one of the stock coil negative?

By the way is the Possitive or Negative the one that are cover on the stock coil?

Last question, is it necesary to get a Timing Gun for this because I heard of a few of ya having bad timing. I might invest on something like that not sure how that would work though. I forgot how to use one of those since I haven't use one for so many years.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Any good ground will work for grounding the circuit board. You do not want to connect it to the stock - terminal as the coil - terminal is not really a ground. I find a 5/16" ring terminal mounted through the mounting bolt of the coil is a good choice.

You should get a timing gun or borrow one from someone. It is nice to be able to check your timing from time to time. This setup will retard your timing a bit. For best results, you will need to reset the timing. Timing lights can be very cheap. Lokk around at somewhere like Walmart. You can get a cheapy light for $10 or so. To use is easy. Connect the red and black wires to the positive and negative battery terminals respectively. If it is an inductive timing light, you just clip the pickup lead around one of the leading plug wires. If it is a DC light, you need to clip the pickup to the actual wire (not the insulation). Inductive lights are a bit easier to use, so that is what I would probably get.

Run the car at idle, loosen the bolt that holds drom the dizzy, turn the dizzy until the leading mark on the pulley lines up with the timing pin (for stock timing). Tighten down the hold down bolt and you are done.

Kent

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

To best set this up, I think you need exactly half a set of FB wires and half a set of FC wires.

Half FB:
One wire goes from Trailing Coil to "L" on the distribtor
One wire goes from L1 on the distributor to the Trailing plug of Rotor1
One wire goes from L2 on the distributor to the Trailing plug of Rotor2

Half FC:
One wire goes from L1 on the FC coil to the Leading plug of Rotor1
One wire goes from L2 on the FC coil to the Leading plug of Rotor2


So if two people were to split the cost of one set of FB wires and one set of FC wires you'd be all set . I don't think any of the wires from the FB set will fit properly on the FC coil and on the plugs, but I'm not sure.

And of course, the two FC wires may end up being longer than you need 'em to be depending on where you mount the coil. Not knowing how long the FC wires are I'm not sure. I'll have to make a trip myself to Ye Olde Junque Yarde, but I doubt I'll find FC wires there... damn

Part of me is thinking of emailing Magnacor with the specs on what I need once I get my FC coil mounted and figure out what lengths I need on the FC coil wires... of course Magnacor's wires are RED and my engine bay's only colour is BLUE.... But that's crazy talk, I'm not a civic driver so I shouldn't be concerning myself with that.

Jon

Edit: and in case people are wondering "why the fork are they running the Trailing wires through the Leading part of the distributor cap?, shouldn't they run them normally, since we didn't upgrade or touch the trailing system at all" :

Well, if you closely inspect your distributor cap's insides and the design of the rotor, you'll see that the Leading part of it is of a slightly better design for spark jump than the Trailing part. This makes sense of course because the trailing plugs are just for emissions anyway and don't really affect power. You *can* leave your trailling wires exactly as they are, but since everybody's always trying to squeeze that last half-iota of "power" out of things, using the Leading side is better than letting it go to waste.

Heck, the way I see it, use it until it's time to change your cap and rotor... then switch to the Trailing side and use that half for another few months!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Of course, I *still* have not found a way to figure out how in God's name to re-mark my timing marks on my pulley!

It's the question without an answer, the holy grail of questions. And I swear, when I find it, I'm writing it into a forkin' tutorial and putting it in both the FAQ *and* the Archive!

Jon

DJAngelicon

Thanks Guys, I will set up the setting first and then go to the AutoPart and get the new wires, and maybe the timing gun if possible.

Zyrano

Just note that you don't NEED to have fc wires ( you can work the fb wires into the fc coil), you can make the fb wires work. Also, You could get a set of 2nd gen plugs for the leading, i don't know if it is an improvement, but that's what i'm running and so far so good...

Xavier8

I bought a set of bosch wires for a 4cyl ranger to use as my new wires. The are a good length and look good and cost 20 bucks. I also use the 2nd gen plugs.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i got mine in yesterday. man the quality of these things is amazing. itll be a while before it sees use though. when it does ill leave feedback.

DJAngelicon

My entire setup is done perfectly one try and both lights turn on the red len and the green blinks fast. I just am waiting for my wires to get to me so I can change the old wires. But the setup works nice. Car idle alot better, and have nice boots I guess when shifting. Beside that I give this setup a Rating of 10.

Great Job Guys I will provide some pictures soon.

devitek

I missed my opportunity to get one of these lovely devices, but I've been contemplating making one from scratch. I've found the parts list, no problem there. I'm sure I can get the parts. I saw the image of the circuit board, but it is not to scale. That presents a slight problem, seeing as how I don't have the software to design one. Does anyone have the dimensions of the board itself? I might be able to work with it if that is the case. And, since I'm currently unemployed, it's possible that I could make several of these units, provided that Kent doesn't mind. That part is just speculation right now, but I would like to make one of my own.

Sweet_revvin_seven

Hi all,
I stumbled across this forum at about 1:20am. I was glued for the next 6 hrs.
Totally humbled by the dedication and attention to detail in developing this mod.
I couldnt stay awake anymore so I decided to catch some shut-eye and sign up as soon as I woke up. Im up now..
I hope my memory serves me right, but I think I might still have a couple days
to get a 2GCDFIS\w TT, or at least the fully assembled auto switching "TT" with the 2 LED indicators before the departure to France.

Please tell me its not too late. I too would like to "spinn the rears in 3rd".
The Holley could really be made more efficient above 8k..

Kevin

Xavier8

you will have to wait till someone else picks up the torch. Otherwise, the current builder has gone out of the business of making TTs for a while. He is out of this country I believe. Don't give up though, it is worth having for sure. Maybe somebody would sell you an early prototype.