So my symptoms happen when I push the clutch pedal and shift into first to get moving. When I ease it into first gear, my car shakes or the shifter shakes. Is it my motor or transmission mounts? When I shift into any other gear after I get moving at any RPMs its smooth and easy. Just my initial movement from engaging into first gear shakes my car. Any input is greatly appreciated. My car is at the shop right now to replace my turn signal cancelator unit. Mad bank FTL....

 

Clutch chatter most likely.

 

thanks for your response! why does my clutch chatter and how can i fix this?

 

ok so i searched clutch chatter since i didnt know what to search for initially.

so i feel that the rear end also shakes and was questioning if a u-joint can go bad. i guess the doc said they can in another thread. so... flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, also the TRANNY MOUNT?

all this shaking seems like a motor mount bushing or something is soft or loose..

man im just about to spend at least 300 on a oem turn signal unit...

the beauty of owning a classic car.. its the beauty of owning a classic car...

and im a broke *** college student =[

 

make sure the clutch fluid is OK. check the tranny mount. other than that you can check the slave to make sure it is OK, other than that may have to do clutch job make sure pilot bearing is replaced.

 

thanks. i just replaced my slave. may have to bring it to a transmission shop and have them look at it. it only happens on initial start from 0 mph. then shifting into second and so on has no problems...

p.s. how long can i drive with these symptoms? as i am low on funds, can i continue to drive it by babying it? i dont want it to break down. if i can drive it, maybe i can do everything at once when i have enough money for a full engine rebuild.

 

If you have enough fluids it should be ok to drive her, fluids are cheap man keep them full, especially oil you can test the engine mounts by just shaking the engine, or if you yourself don't have the man power get some friends and try to pick up one side of the engine, it should not move if the engine mounts are ok, if it does move they are toast, you will have to jack the car up a little to check the tranny mount, and just shake it again I might have to agree with Jeff though, it may be Clutch chatter or a slightly warped flywheel? If it is one of the mounts it would do it under just the right amount of throttle while moving also, plus the engine would feel crazy every time you pushed the gas Bucking Bronco baby

 

Man I put a lot of smilies, hehe

 

yea i noticed that too. under an amount of throttle it shakes more, not sure how much b/c i havent observed that closely. sometimes its not so bad.. the clutch and flywheel per my dad has been replaced at 120k

 

If you keep buying new OEM parts, you will stay broke, forever. There are many good used parts available and some parts can be repaired/cleaned and put back into service, i.e., the turn signal unit.

Before you put the car in the shop for someone else to take your money, start learning the car and doing repairs yourself. Link to the FSM, stc. is in my sig line.
.
.
.
.
.
.

 

hello mr. trochoid, i deeply appreciate your input about the fsm and understand that original mazda parts do cost a lot of money. i personally own 2 1982 fsm and a wiring diagram. also when i couldnt figure out how to fix something, i would come over here and ask. for example my threads about piecing together a stock radio, repairing the omp, or re-gasketting the oil pan and many others. i do understand that i could have gone to a local junkyard and take a steering wheel off to try and fix my turn signal combo but i do not have a steering wheel puller tool, time, and i dont want to chance that the part might not work. but the main topic i want to ask is about clutch chatter since i really do not have any knowledge about transmissions/differentials or much of the chassis underbody besides the exhaust. i do plan on getting my fluids drained and replenished at a lube shop soon after i get my car back from rick.

again, thanks to everyone for their support

 

My car developed shifter wobble starting out in first gear last spring. I found that the clutch disk was the culprit. It was kind of interesting how it progressed. First off, it started to do the wobble, then the clutch slowly started to slip (over the course of a week), then all of a sudden one day it finally gave way. The pedal wouldn't come off the floor by it self and there was no clutch left. I started troubleshooting by replacing both the master and slave (ignoring the fact that this wouldn't cause a wobble), but that didn't solve the problem. I then dropped the transmission and pulled the clutch to find that half the "pucks" on one side were gone and all that was left were rivets. I replaced the throwout bearing, disk and pressure plate.
No more wobble and she'll squawk them in 3rd if I wanted her to.

 

Roundabout, do you have a stock flywheel? Which disc and pressure plate did you use?

 

Often it's hard to tell what knowledge, resources and experience members have. Mean't no offense.

For me, 300 bucks would buy a damn nice external waste gate since most of the turn signal units only need cleaned and lubed. Btw, you don't need a puller all the time for the steering wheel. I started out using one, then found that wiggling while pulling will get most of them off.

If your tranny and engine mounts are good, along with the driveshaft and diff, your problem is most likely the clutch disc. Either it is getting oil soaked. hot spotted and galled, or the disc itself is worn to the point it may be coming apart.

 

If it is doing it under throttle and you are for sure that there is no slipping what so ever, which there should not be with that few miles on the clutch, then it is the engine mounts, the tranny mount would not cause that if the engine mounts were still good, so if you have not tried it yet do like I said and shake the engine mine did the shaking thing in every gear eventually but then I replaced the mounts with solid mounts, I could probably look up who I got them from but they are amazing, if you like that tight race car feel, but if you still want to feel your but once you get out of the car go with some good used mounts, I am sure lots of people here have them for sale

 

Would it be ok with everybody if I name myself the Smiley king? I don't mean to I just do

 

Please don't, it's annoying.

 

old fart j/k Trochoid I want to hump your car so I can't say anything.

 

i have heard that the shimmy is a common problem for the 1st gen in 1st gear doesnt racing beat make a brace for that ? also reverse

 

It's all stock. I ordered the disk from advance and used a SE 13B pressure plate. When I pull the motor for porting, I'm definitely going light weight flywheel and a centerforce clutch.
Now, back on subject...

1stgenNutt:
It may be common only because certain components become worn and need replacing.

So, like trochoid said, if all the components he listed are good, go for the clutch.

 

hello everyone and thank you very much for your input on my clutch chattering/shaking/jittering problem.

well ill try and find out my options. i hope its the clutch disc because motor mounts would require to take out the engine? thinking back i believe that this shakiness has been progressive.

although i am low on funds i do not mind putting quality parts into my car because of the passion for my gen1.

 

You don't have to pull the motor to do the mounts. I agree with most that you are likely looking at a clutch disc issue, could be falling apart, etc. It'll vibrate in neutral with the clutch pressed in because it is spinning free and able to wobble if the clutch material has issues affecting balance. When the clutch is depressed and the car is moving, this imbalance is absorbed by the entire drivetrain. Motor mounts, very unlikely, trans mount, unlikely. Do the clutch, and replace the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and pressure plate as well.

 

Well I just had my engine rebuilt along with a new pilot bearing a seal. I have noticed during break-in driving that the violent shaking has gone away. Although on some occasions my car does vibrate, particularly in 4th gear but can in all the gears. The vibration occurs around 2.5-3k RPM and sometimes can get quite annoying with my interior pieces chattering (hopefully I dont have clutch chatter too). But then other times the car will drive smooth and very quiet as it should be throughout all the gears. It seems random when the car will vibrate or be smooth. Any ideas of why or where I should look at?

Also as firstgenNutt said, my first gear and reverse also has that wobblyness. It happens when starting from a stop and backing up parking. That's when I notice the rattling noise hence shaking of probably my exhaust shields or underpan.

Thanks in advance! It feels great to drive a freshly rebuilt smooth motor at least!

 

If I were you, Id replace it all. I had alot of bad noises from my driveline (clutch chatter, bad U joints, bad transmission, wining rear end), so I just replaced it all with USED and refurbished parts and installed it in my driveway with no major tools.

I bought a new clutch for $200 shipped from Mazdatrix, lower mileage transmission for $150, new driveline with new U joints for $60, and a rebuilt LSD pumpkin for $120.

The parts are out there used or refurbished for much cheaper than you think and with this recession Im sure you can get a good deal. Good luck!

 

The transmission shakes? Maybe try the Transmission mount? $30 parts 1/2 hour job. If you had your engine rebuilt and didn't replace it then, now is a good time. If its still the original I guarantee its bad. The turn signal cancel problem could be fixed for much less $$. http://intertron.com/ron/combo.html