1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Trailing plugs, no spark

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Old 03-27-02, 08:03 AM
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Angry Trailing plugs, no spark

Ok, I have replaced the coil, checked the ignitor and fuses, the rotor and cap were replaced in 2000, as with the plug wires and plugs. I really dont know what else would be wrong, any ideas?
Old 03-27-02, 04:32 PM
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Also, I just did my own little test. I hooked up a volt meter with the + end coming off the trailing coil, and the - end on a ground. When I cranked I was getting power, so wouldnt that mean the problem is after the coil, not before? I may have checked the ignitors wrong, I dont know what else it could be.
Old 03-27-02, 06:12 PM
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I would double check the ignitors. Or the rotar in the distributor cap.
Old 03-27-02, 06:14 PM
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yea sounds like a blown ignitor,
you can switch the trailing and leading ignitors to find out if one is bad.
Old 03-27-02, 06:34 PM
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do the EAZY test, slap a timing light on the wires. if it doesnt lights your not getting it from the dizzy, then check to see if it lights from the coil its self...should turn on and stay on almost constent. if it works then you got a dizzy prob.

Last edited by BadAssRX-7; 03-27-02 at 06:36 PM.
Old 03-27-02, 07:13 PM
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If you have an oscilliscope, a High impedance analog volt meter, or some type of quick responce, low power sensing test equipment, you may want to check your hall effect magnetic pickups.

You should probably disconnect teh primary ignition circuits for this.

Remove your ignitor from the dizzy there are two terminals. They are connected to the pickup. Probe thsoe while the engine is being cranked.

An alternative would be a basic high gain amplifier hooked to a speaker, LED or Light Bulb. Hook the input to where the ignitor would go.

Better get a seccond opinion on this from an ignition guru before trying. It's only an idea. I'm not too sure it'd work or if it'd damage anything.

If you take apart an electronic Dizzy, you'll see the pickup on the side and a gear looking thing on the shaft. The gear is magnetic and the pickup is a coil. When the magnetic tooth of the gear swings by, it induces a current in the coil which triggers the ignitor. The ignitor is basically a power transistor. (Similar to a mechanical relay, only it has instant responce time and works on very small ammounts of current for the controlling circuit.) The ignitor sends the full 12 Volts battery power to the ignition coils. Badda bing, Badda boom, You got spark. If something wasn't working in that chain, you don't.

Magnetic pickups rarely fail, there is no wear as there is no physical contact, no points to burn up, and no adjustment is needed. This is why points have gone the way of the dinosaur.

Last edited by Pele; 03-27-02 at 07:21 PM.
Old 03-27-02, 09:03 PM
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Yeah, shutup kid.

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Originally posted by error402
I would double check the ignitors. Or the rotar in the distributor cap.
Could i just switch the wires going to them since all i care about is finding if they are good or bad? It would take a lot less time than actually switching the ignitors.
Old 03-27-02, 11:45 PM
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eazy way to see if the trailing ing is bad.... does the tach move? yes...ing is good, no tach is bad ing.
Old 03-28-02, 09:09 AM
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The trailing ignitor is bad. I switched the wires going to them, and I get spark on trailing plugs instead of leading. I'll be getting a new ignitor today hopefully. I know someone who has a ignitor for a 13b for sale pretty cheap, anyone know if they are the same as for the 12a or not?
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