Totally Stumped 85 GSL SE
06-03-07, 06:48 PM
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Totally Stumped 85 GSL SE
I have spent the last weekend and most of last week evenings trying to get my son's GSL SE to Idle and hold a constant RPM at any level.
Last Monday I moved the car to add dye and 134a to the A/C system and look for leaks. I routed the manifold hose to fill it under the High tension leads and wire harness. I am beginning to suspect a wiring problem as the change out and testing of the following has not led to a resolve of this problem.
I have changed the spark plugs and flamed them a couple of times. I have a spare 85 GSL SE for parts.
The 2 coils were changed, the Dizzy. Also the cast plate with throttle butter flys was changed. Fuel pressure whilst running is 38PSI. The injectors were pulled and I reverse blew them out with compressed air. Every componet under the right side floor pan was swapped out. The purge valve was changed. The TPS was swapped out with 2 other spares and set with the 2 light method to the geen connector. The BAC valve was removed and cleaned, not hung up though. Swapped out the mass air flow sensor. Cleaned and removed the clutch pedal switch.
Currently the car will not start when hot, too lean, I must pour a shot class of fuel into the mass air flow sensor to get it to catch. The engine holds a rough 900 RPM idle and runs up smoothly when I use my hand to control the throttle under the hood. Engine surges at any sustained RPM. Vacuum varries as the engine surges. Car is not drivable. Have moved the dizzy advanced and retarded still the problem persists.
I am wondering if I disturbed something when I was topping off the freon. Possibly a wire is has worn and is touching ground or is now open. What system would cause this problem.
If you have any Questioins/suggestions I am more than willing to give it a try.
Could really use some help.
TonyK.
Last Monday I moved the car to add dye and 134a to the A/C system and look for leaks. I routed the manifold hose to fill it under the High tension leads and wire harness. I am beginning to suspect a wiring problem as the change out and testing of the following has not led to a resolve of this problem.
I have changed the spark plugs and flamed them a couple of times. I have a spare 85 GSL SE for parts.
The 2 coils were changed, the Dizzy. Also the cast plate with throttle butter flys was changed. Fuel pressure whilst running is 38PSI. The injectors were pulled and I reverse blew them out with compressed air. Every componet under the right side floor pan was swapped out. The purge valve was changed. The TPS was swapped out with 2 other spares and set with the 2 light method to the geen connector. The BAC valve was removed and cleaned, not hung up though. Swapped out the mass air flow sensor. Cleaned and removed the clutch pedal switch.
Currently the car will not start when hot, too lean, I must pour a shot class of fuel into the mass air flow sensor to get it to catch. The engine holds a rough 900 RPM idle and runs up smoothly when I use my hand to control the throttle under the hood. Engine surges at any sustained RPM. Vacuum varries as the engine surges. Car is not drivable. Have moved the dizzy advanced and retarded still the problem persists.
I am wondering if I disturbed something when I was topping off the freon. Possibly a wire is has worn and is touching ground or is now open. What system would cause this problem.
If you have any Questioins/suggestions I am more than willing to give it a try.
Could really use some help.
TonyK.
06-03-07, 06:54 PM
#2
Replace the 2 fuseable links for the injection system that are located at the top of the link holder. 1 is for the computer, the other is for the injectors. Use links that you know are working.
I'm recommending this because I have seen trouble with those links in the past and since it is close to where you were working, Well it's worth a shot.
I'm recommending this because I have seen trouble with those links in the past and since it is close to where you were working, Well it's worth a shot.
06-03-07, 09:01 PM
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Problems
RX7 Doctor,
I am begining to think that the problem is inherent to the parts that are not normally changed. Being an electrician my thoughts are to jumper out the links temporary and note if there is any change. Cars of this vintage will be subject to electrical failure. I have the Haynes manual that gives the pinout at the ECU and corisponding voltages. To add to make matters worst, while trying all of the component swaps the starter gave up and I used my spare from my donor GSL SE to get past that one. About the only thing that I have not changed on this car is the lug nuts. I am sure that cannot be the problem, but as desperation begins to set in I start wondering about long shots without relevance.
It is apparent why ODB came about, this ***** nilly change out without being able to find the problem or even have direction is and must have been total frustration for mechanics of that era. Looking at the print, it appears that a +12V from the battery to the coil terminal may also provide a solution to prove the wiring. The ECU varies the ground path and not the positive supply.
This problem is not new to this car as I have ventured on this quest in the past, however changing item eventually cleared up the problem, I suspect that I mearly disturbed something that corrected the problem rather than to exercise a true solution.
At this point a carb and as set of breaker points would solve all this penance I have been doing.
Should anything else come to mind I am listening.
Thanks for the response and insperation.
TonyK
Ark1.
I am begining to think that the problem is inherent to the parts that are not normally changed. Being an electrician my thoughts are to jumper out the links temporary and note if there is any change. Cars of this vintage will be subject to electrical failure. I have the Haynes manual that gives the pinout at the ECU and corisponding voltages. To add to make matters worst, while trying all of the component swaps the starter gave up and I used my spare from my donor GSL SE to get past that one. About the only thing that I have not changed on this car is the lug nuts. I am sure that cannot be the problem, but as desperation begins to set in I start wondering about long shots without relevance.
It is apparent why ODB came about, this ***** nilly change out without being able to find the problem or even have direction is and must have been total frustration for mechanics of that era. Looking at the print, it appears that a +12V from the battery to the coil terminal may also provide a solution to prove the wiring. The ECU varies the ground path and not the positive supply.
This problem is not new to this car as I have ventured on this quest in the past, however changing item eventually cleared up the problem, I suspect that I mearly disturbed something that corrected the problem rather than to exercise a true solution.
At this point a carb and as set of breaker points would solve all this penance I have been doing.
Should anything else come to mind I am listening.
Thanks for the response and insperation.
TonyK
Ark1.
06-04-07, 09:54 AM
#5
callin' tokyo
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David Lane has an article for solving SE idling probs you can check out here:
http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html
http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html
06-04-07, 01:33 PM
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Not So Familiar With The Rotary Fuel Injection On First Gen 13b But Does The Engine Have An Idle Control Valve Commonly Known As An Iac Valve If So These Valves Are Known To Cause The Same Problem On Toyotas Which I Am Familiar With. If So On A Second Gen Rx7 It Would Be On The Top Driverside Of The Intake Manifold.
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