I can't get my engine started...It's a stock early Nikki on a 13B mani on a T2 engine.

12A dizzy, 2GDFI, HEI ignitors, elec fuel pump, Holley regulator, premixing. No rats nest, no PCV, no carbon canister, etc.

Carb is just temporary, so no "why downgrade?" posts, ok?

I've stabbed the 12A dizzy numerous times all around the timing marks on the pulley but still haven't gotten it to run. It'll cough once in a while and occasionally shoot orange flames out the open header. I've also tried different opening positions for the primary blades and the choke. The carb is rebuild and not flooding.

Plugs are new NGKs. They are wet when I pull them out but not soaking and not dirty. When I deflood, I get the fine spray shooting out and today I noticed that while cranking, the same mist is coming out the exhaust. I assume its fuel (alhough before, I did smell some combustion when the engine was coughing).

I shoulda taken a pic of the plugs but basically they are shiny new and a little wet. I can't tell if I'm getting enough fuel or too little. Fuel filter is new and not clogged, pressure at 2.5-3psi, all air and fuel passages blown with compressed air. What else...no vac advance on the dizzy, mech secondary mod on the carb. The richer and coasting solenoid aren't hooked up. There's no afterburn valve that I could find. I bought the Nikki stripped.

Mixture screw is 3 turns out, air adjust screw is 1-2 turns out, do these affect startup?

Do I have too many things on the carb capped?
3 caps below the air vent solenoid.
2 on the back cast iron base, 1 in the front.
5 on the phenolic spacer.
1 on the mani.
That leaves two uncapped, which I'm using for brake booster and vacuum gauge.

I can't test for vac leaks since it doesn't run, but I did blow compressed air into various vac nipples on the carb and only hear air escaping out the carb inlet itself.

Spraying carb cleaner into the intake when cranking doesn't help. I've verified spark both by grounding and by hooking up a timing lite.

Help!

 

Anyone in So Cal Orange County willing to come take a look, like tomorrow???

 

Well, I'd have to say that the obvious thing to do is get your timing set properly. Guessing will get you nowhere unless you are extremely lucky. And if that were the case, you wouldn't be here, right? lol. Anyway, nothing else is going to get your car started until you get the timing set. Good luck...

 

You can get the timing good enough to start the car and stall by guessing. My car started fine the first time i'd ever restabed my dizzy, after I did the rebuild and It started first go with bad timing, almost flat battery, leading plugs only and stale fuel

It was full of kero/2 stroke mix, and the carby was full of 2stroke.

It ran like **** but it ran. New plugs and better timing fixed it.

My only suggestion is to make sure the engine is at the right point to like of the markers on the dizzy. Doubt it would be anything else if you are sure the carby and all that works.

Have a read of this thread and all the links.
http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...ic.php?t=57491

Bad timing is more likely to be the problem then fuel if you are getting some in there.

DON'T reuin your new plugs by trying to get the motor started for the first time, use **** ones and then put the good ones in after its running swish.

 

jobro, you would fall into the "lucky" grouping. lol. I'm not saying its impossible to do it that way, but it will require either extreme luck or a really good "feel" for it that can only come through lots of experience.

 

Tow it to my shop in LA near Dodger Stadium. OC boys dont know crap about carbs but they have a real thick wallet tho.

 

Well, I set the timing according to the marks on the pulley. And when that didn't work, tried it near the marks on the pulley. I've also found TDC by locating the apex seals in the rear plug holes and taking half the distance.

For the dizzy stab, line up the dimple on the gear with the arrow/triangle mark right?

Thanks wacky, but I just don't have the time! Don't you make house calls? We OC boys are scared to go out on the "Streets of LA", J/K

 

If your timing is right, clean and dry your plugs, they are fouled, add a capfull of motor oil to each barrel, crank with plugs out and fuel pump disabled, install clean, dry plugs, fire it up.

 

First, familiarize yourself with the flywheel particularly the flat end (pix 1).


Remove the inspection plate located between the bellhousing and the intake manifold. Turn the pulley with a 19mm socket until the flat end lines up or parallel with the engine (pix 2)


Now, look at the front pulley. The notch in 12:00 position is your TDC.



The above process will ensure that the main pulley is installed in the right position since with the 81+ pulleys, there are 4 ways to install it but there is only 1 way to do it right.

Align the notices on your dizzy and drop them in. Usually, I drop it in while holding on to the dizzy cap rotor.

if you need further assistance, feel free to PM me with your #.

 

But they are shiny...which leads me to believe that combustion is way weak. Too much air or too little fuel? How strong visually is the spark when firing outside the engine (grounded to fender etc)? I see the sparks but nothing spectacular.

Oh, did as you suggested too, early on. Is there a way to decarbonize a non running engine?

Thanks

 

Thanks I've seen your write up somewhere before. Does this give a different result than the plug hole method on the rear rotor?
On my T2, the pulley would only install one way.

10 days til JCCS, i'm so f*cked!

Anyone have info on the stock settings for cranking for the air mix and air adjust screws?

 

Quick Q on the dizzy, I read that I should align the marks etc and then drop the dizzy in. And THEN rotate the dizzy so that the 4 ended rotor tips line up with 2 of the magnetic pickups. I've done it without this step too with the same results.

 

Plugs should show a nice blue arc. Since they are wet, they are either fouled or you have a weak spark. They need to be dry for a good arc from the prongs to the electrode, otherwise the spark follows the dampness on the plug.

I have had brand new plugs foul in less than 30 seconds, used brake cleaner and compressed air and they still wouldn't fire. Hit them with the sand/bead blaster, they fired right up. Take one of your wet plugs and one that you have cleaned and compare the spark between them. You may need to clean them better.

 

100% on flooded engine.

Did you say JCCS? I will be there in my FB or RX-3 (thats if I can get the windshield/back window chrome pieces installed on time). Im not a car-show type of person so once Im parked, I will be going home to do other things. So dont forget to say HI!!!

 

They were definitely blue, but nice...what's nice? I will do as you say and clean them up.
thanks again

 

Can you explain 100%? All the way in or all the way out?

Yup, JCCS. I met you at R&R a couple of months ago. I was with Terry who asked you about the AC hose problem on her 1st gen. I'll make sure to look for you.

 

Owen, here is my gut feeling. You still have timing issues. It sounds like you still aren't fully understanding how to set the timing. Use the flywheel method provided by Wacky and go through each step carefully.

btw, the inspection cover is the little piece of sheet metal bolted on the top of the engine by the rat's nest, next to the firewall.

1. Take that off, and rotate the engine until the flat part of the flywheel is visible.

2.Then, see if the the notch on the front pulley matches up with the peg.

3. If they match up, then you are fine. If they don't match up, then remove and reposition the pulley in the correct position.

4. Remove the dizzy, match up the marks on it, and re-insert.

Did I get that right Wacky?

Good luck man...

 

The engine is flooded from all the cranking and stuff. here's what you do.
Pour a cap full of regular oil on each primary barrels.
Handcrank the main pulley for a few times, then let it sit for at least 5 minutes. and while you're waiting, clean the plugs and be sure it is completely dry.

I dont know what condition your battery is, but be sure its not weak or dead. Otherwise, it may not start.

Install the spark plugs and start away. It will smoke for 5-10 minutes but thats it will burn off.

PS:
I remember you.
Thanks for allowing us to attend the JCCS at such a late notice. My bro, Jerry, is the one who contacted you guys. I just got the confirmation this morning.

 

Yup. you got it. But I screwed up also. I didnt notice that he has a TII motor so the first mark is not "0". At any rate, the pulley bolt closest to the pointer or 12oclock position is your "0".

 

I hate work, it gets in the way of my hobbies!

Did some thinking and still no idea...
It's got SOME fuel and some air. And I see sparks.

Tonite I'm going to
decarbonize with something
clean the plugs
check TDC per above
check and/or swap the coil
wire a +12V directly to the coil (although multimeter tests show it to be ok)

Oh, I don't have that little capacitor thing on the dizzy installed, what is it and do I need it? If so, what do I hook it up to?

 

Thanks, that reminded me that I need to GET on of those plates! So it's the one on top and not on the side right?

 

Owen,
How did you wire up the igniter to the coils? Did you use the stock igniter harness or did you run new wires?

 

if you are having problems determinign if its too much fuel, or not enough, you should install a fuel cut switch.

 

Umm, per the instructions on this site. And I made a new harness for them. Got your PM.

 

I do have one, but let me get your train of thought.
Switch OFF should result in? Switch ON should result in?

I get the same results no matter what. The bowls do drain when cranking with the pump off. Is that supposed to happen with the throttle plates open or closed, or both?

Thanks