Too much fuel
10-12-06, 09:44 PM
#1
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Too much fuel
hey i was wonder if anybody knew why a fuel pump in an 84 RX7 GSL would pump TOO MUCH fuel to the carb... do it mean the pump is bad or what... im so confused
10-12-06, 10:02 PM
#2
More likely the needle/seats are sticking or the solenoid. If you could provide more details, that would help sort out the problem easier. The stock fuel pump is barely adequate for it's purpose so any flooding issues are usually carb related.
Welcome to the forum, and The Darkside. In my sig line is a link to the online FSMs and a factory carb manual. In the FAQs are some great carb trouble shooting writeups by Sterling.
Welcome to the forum, and The Darkside. In my sig line is a link to the online FSMs and a factory carb manual. In the FAQs are some great carb trouble shooting writeups by Sterling.
10-12-06, 10:02 PM
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get a fuel pressure regulator, it will help. You may have an aftermarket pump as well. I'm running a holley red fuel pump to a Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) set at 3.5. FPR's are relatively inexpensive and you should be able to pick one up just about anywhere.
10-13-06, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
More likely the needle/seats are sticking or the solenoid. If you could provide more details, that would help sort out the problem easier. The stock fuel pump is barely adequate for it's purpose so any flooding issues are usually carb related.
10-13-06, 04:08 PM
#5
Terrified.
Just because the engine is flooding out doesn't necessarily mean it has to be the fuel pump pumping too much, like everyone else is saying, it could be something with the carb or the lines running to and from the carb.
10-13-06, 05:25 PM
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well now that i think about it, it probley is the carb... and yeah the check valve was bad... but i replaced it and its still leting alot of fuel into the system and it still keeps dying... ok... another question where the IN fuel line come is and the OUT fuel line goes out on the carb.. is that a fuel pressure regulator or no?
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10-13-06, 08:58 PM
#8
The inline line to the carb is the rear hose, the out is the front one. The fpr on the outline is a oneway valve. If it is reversed, the carb can flood. The word 'carb' and an arrow is stamped into the check valve, but it's very hard to see. It must be installed so flow is from the carb back to the tank.
10-14-06, 04:23 PM
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10-14-06, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pedro
hi there are you use the stock corb
10-14-06, 08:08 PM
#12
The check valve is rarly a failure item. Check the sight windows on the front and the back of the carb for fuel level, test the vent solinoid for operation and make sure it's plugged in and getting power.
Have you downloaded the carb manual or read Sterlings writeups in the FAQs yet?
Have you downloaded the carb manual or read Sterlings writeups in the FAQs yet?
10-14-06, 08:08 PM
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This may very well be the answer to your problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=587285
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=587285
10-14-06, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by bstrange99
This may very well be the answer to your problem.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=587285
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=587285
10-14-06, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
The check valve is rarly a failure item. Check the sight windows on the front and the back of the carb for fuel level, test the vent solinoid for operation and make sure it's plugged in and getting power.
Have you downloaded the carb manual or read Sterlings writeups in the FAQs yet?
Have you downloaded the carb manual or read Sterlings writeups in the FAQs yet?
10-14-06, 09:28 PM
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I would only rebuild the carb as a last resort. You may do more harm than good. If the solenoid is the problem, it may not need replaced. There's a good chance that the 20+ year old wire is faulty.
Test for 12 volts with the ignition on. If voltage is present, leave the key on, un plug the solenoid, and plug it back in. You should be able to hear it actuate, it'll be a pretty distinct and audable "CLICK". If it doesn't click it's a bad solenoid, and There's probably a lot of them around the forum for little or nothing.
If you don't have the 12 volts when you test it, run a test wire from the battery, touch it to the solenoid connector, and listen for the click. if it clicks, run a new wire from an ignition source, re-use the old connector, or a crimp (your choice), and it should be fixed.
DON"T FORGET TO UN-FLOOD THE MOTOR BEFORE STARTING IT UP. A flooded motor can be a bear to start.
Good luck.
Test for 12 volts with the ignition on. If voltage is present, leave the key on, un plug the solenoid, and plug it back in. You should be able to hear it actuate, it'll be a pretty distinct and audable "CLICK". If it doesn't click it's a bad solenoid, and There's probably a lot of them around the forum for little or nothing.
If you don't have the 12 volts when you test it, run a test wire from the battery, touch it to the solenoid connector, and listen for the click. if it clicks, run a new wire from an ignition source, re-use the old connector, or a crimp (your choice), and it should be fixed.
DON"T FORGET TO UN-FLOOD THE MOTOR BEFORE STARTING IT UP. A flooded motor can be a bear to start.
Good luck.
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